Watco Danish Oil (Cherry on cherry)

[kwc]

Hello,

Has anyone used Watco Danish Oil in the cherry color on cherry wood? I'm looking for some sample photos to determine whether or not I want to go this route for my hallway bench. I'd likely apply a poly coat over it to ensure durability.

My main interest is in obtaining a deep, rich, brownish-red hue to the wood.

Thanks!
kwc

[rja]

Why spend money on tinted Watco when the cherry will turn a rich, dark, reddish brown on its own?

[kwc]

I tried "suntanning" the wood and was disappointed with the color--seemed somewhat bland, gray/brown, with little or no hint of red color. I'm hoping the tinted danish oil will add more richness to it, as long as it isn't "over the top."

- kwc

[Garasaki]

I've used the untinted verson of Watco on a cherry piece (topped with shellac and paste wax).

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=27245

The wood has already reddened up considerably.

I can try to get pics of it now for your comparison.

You should note, that the typical recommended method of applying danish oil to cherry to to apply it then quickly whip it off, not letting it soak in much.

PS - Believe me when I saw there's nothing bland about cherry using this finish! The wood shimmers...viewed in direct sunlight it's simply spectacular.

[Lonnie in Orlando]

Gonna have to waste some wood to test various finishes. You may end up spending as much time finding the best finishing method as you did building the piece.

I haven't made any large pieces with cherry. Cherry may blotch pretty badly. The problems and successes of using cherry will show up more on a large piece, like your bench, than on small pieces like the box that Garasaki made and this candle box that I made for a friend 6-7 years ago. I haven't seen it since it was made, so I don't know how it aged.

I used natural Watco on the candle box and let it soak in pretty well before wiping off. Multiple coats to a uniform finish. Wiping off sooner may reduce blotching.

You might also try some fruitwood Watco to add color, or a combination of fruitwood and cherry. NOTE: The "cherry" or "fruitwood" pigment/stain in the Watco may accent the blotching problem.

Bob Flexner "Understanding Wood Finishes" suggests gel stain followed by oil/varnish blend (Watco).

Garasaki's description of the shimmering effect of the wood is right-on, especially on the figured top. Stunning.

- Lonnie

[Ken Massingale]

I tried "suntanning" the wood and was disappointed with the color--seemed somewhat bland, gray/brown, with little or no hint of red color. I'm hoping the tinted danish oil will add more richness to it, as long as it isn't "over the top."

- kwc

You won't get the deep beautiful color of Cherry with a afternoon of sun, it takes time. A good poly finish will provide a beautiful piece with time.
Most of the 'Cherry' you see on store bought stuff is stained with an (to me) ugly red color that is nothing like natural Cherry.

[kwc]

Thanks for all of the great information and the sample photos.

Can a pre-stain conditioner (e.g. by Minwax) be used before applying the Danish oil to reduce the blotchiness? Or will this adversely affect the absorption into the surface?

Regards,
kwc

[Garasaki]

You might like this website too

http://www.finishwiz.com/cherry.htm

I don't think you want to use any prestain conditioner (which btw is just shellac, I believe).

Although you could always try it out.

My understanding of the oil base finishes is that they penetrate the wood and cure within the wood, rather then on top of the wood. Sealing the wood does not allow the oil based finish to penetrate it. I could be wrong though.

[JimD]

There is quite a bit of variation in cherry. Your pieces may finish easily with no blotchy tendency or they may not. I have not done a lot with cherry but what I have done I just ignored the blotchy possibility and they came out fine. As has been suggested, a little experimentation on scraps is wise.

Jim

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Bob Flexner "Understanding Wood Finishes" suggests gel stain followed by oil/varnish blend (Watco).

Gasp, choke, snort . . . !?!?! What?!?

I don't remember reading that but when I do I will tear that page out of the book! What a terrible idea. I about blow a gasket every time I see Norm oil staining then gel staining Mahogany! Why not just use poplar if you are going to obscure the grain and characteristics of the wood!>!?!?

Prior to using the below method I sealed Cherry with garnet shellac. Gave a little color and sealed the wood nicely. Then GF Seal-A-Cell gives a little tint as well. Finish with GF Arm-R-Seal for soft smooth finish.

BTW, here is answer to all your prayers . . . .

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=27343

The above thread is absolutely awesome! Stuff works like a champ! Its cheap, quick. Ok, maybe a little dangerous, but hey the results are awesome. I want to send the OP of the above thread some additional samples on figured, finished wood.

[kwc]

Jeffrey,

I admit everyone has different tastes--so if someone prefers gel over stain, or stain over natural finish, go for it.

I've tried the Cherry Danish Oil on some sample pieces and am very impressed. The color is absolutely beautiful and it doesn't obscure the grain at all. I'm experimenting with pre-stain conditioner to ensure I get an even application; that seems to help, as long as my sanding is done well.

Note that I did use gel stain on my previous project. With the wood sanded at 220 grit, the gel absorbed very lightly into the wood and did not obscure the grain at all. No need to gasp or snort. :-)

Regards,
kwc

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Jeffrey,

I admit everyone has different tastes--so if someone prefers gel over stain, or stain over natural finish, go for it.

I've tried the Cherry Danish Oil on some sample pieces and am very impressed. The color is absolutely beautiful and it doesn't obscure the grain at all. I'm experimenting with pre-stain conditioner to ensure I get an even application; that seems to help, as long as my sanding is done well.

Note that I did use gel stain on my previous project. With the wood sanded at 220 grit, the gel absorbed very lightly into the wood and did not obscure the grain at all. No need to gasp or snort. :-)

Regards,
kwc

I agree with you completely and was being snobby/funny and quite over the top.

IMHO Cherry Danish Oil is a little different than stains and will not obscure the grain like stain. As far as prestain conditioner, take about 20% BLO (boiled linseed oil) and 80% Naptha or Mineral Spirits mixture. Much cheaper than buying the pre-stain conditioner off the shelf.

I have used gel stain on plenty of projects and have a few quarts in my shop. I personally have no problem using it over pine or poplar or anything I pay <$1 bf for however I don't use it on better wood. I like to let the wood speak for itself.

Your use of gel stain is not typical. Normally it is used to hide imperfects and provide even coats on hard to stain items. Sanding or wiping the product down to the wood in order to facilitate visibility of grain would likely result in blotchiness IF the wood is prone to blotch to begin with. Gel stain has its thick property in order to facilitate it sitting on top of the wood versus soaking into the wood. A typical application will obscure the grain and natural look of the wood, however this is the desired affect when using gel stain. This is also the reason that gel stain is more effective on wood that tends to get blotchy, it sits on top of the grain versus any real pentration of the wood fibers that cause blotching.

As noted, to each his own! Live and let live!