base and wall cabinets? I'm planning to build some shop cabinets, both floor as well as hanging wall cabinets. I'm guessing the base cabinets should be 3/4" inch ply? Would 1/2" ply be plenty sturdy or should I stick with the 3/4". For the wall cabinets I plan to use them to store hand held tools as well as some books but nothing too too heavy. Again the question is would 1/4" ply be plenty sturdy for wall cabinets or do I need to go with 1/2" ply? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!
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I would use 3/4" on the sides, and bottom of the base cabinets, and 3/4" for the sides and top and bottom of the upper cabinets. 1/4" can be used for the backs. The use of 3/4" will permit the use of good corner joinery, and be very structural. -
The cabinet shop standard is 3/4" for everything except backs. I use 3/4"X2" strips for hanging rails inside the backs. I have used 1/2" for wall cabinets but.... it's just not that great a savings really for piece of mind. Just my 2 cents. PatWoodworking is therapy.....some of us need more therapy than others. <ZERO>Comment
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ryan,
I agree with what the 3/4" concept. YOu never know what willend up in cabinets so build for the heaviest.
JerryJerry
Making High Quality Sawdust in Northeast PlainfieldComment
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One further comment on backs ...
For general-purpose-storage wall cabinets, a 1/4" back is more than adequate in terms of strength; the plywood panel acts as a diaphragm, in tension, a situation in which even 1/4" material is immensely strong. Increasing the back's thickness is actually counterproductive because you're doing nothing more than adding still more dead weight.
HOWEVER, this presumes you're going to attach the cabinet to the wall using either a hanging rail, inside the cabinet; or a French cleat, on the outside back of the cabinet. Either way, these should be 3/4" thick as they will bear the actual weight of the cabinet and its contents. If you do not want to use any type of rail/cleat hanging system, then the back must be increased to 3/4" because the fasteners through it will be bearing the weight.
Another instance in which you'd use a thicker back is if you're building a wall-hung tool cabinet and need a thicker substrate to which to attach racks and shelves and cubbyholes for the various tools. If you attached these to a 1/4" back, the screws would soon tear out.
Those two exceptions aside, a 1/4" back is the ticket. And +1 on using 3/4" for everything else.LarryComment
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Thanks for the input guys. I guess 3/4" is the way to go. I'm glad I asked.Comment
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Hang rails don't necessarily have to be mounted inside the cabinet. For appearances, the hangrail can be mounted outside the cabinet underneath the top of the cabinet, using the same rabbet as the back, either as a single rail or an upper and lower hangrail. If this is done, the back, (usually 1/4") will be rabbeted in far enough to accept the hangrail (s), to its rear, and finish slightly recessed (to allow for scribing), or flush with the carcass.Comment
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Would 3/4 MDF be strong enough, if constructed properly, or do you need to go with 3/4 ply? I like the smoothness of the MDF material. I plan to paint my cabinets and don't want to spend a lot of time sanding.
By constructed properly, I mean double glued (to avoid glue starving) and screwed, with the screw holes countersunk at the joint on both sides to allow for some material blowout.- Chris.Comment
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Three quarter MDF works very well as a carcass, but it's a bit heavy. You can construct it just as if you were using plywood. You could rabbet the ends and glue in and fasten the top and bottom, as an upper cabinet and you will have a good glue joint.
Base cabinets can be made the same way by routing a dado for the floor and creating a full to the floor end, or rabbet the ends, glue in the floor and make a loose toe kick. Top rails should be either solid wood or plywood to connect the two ends. The floor in either case should be secured with fasteners and glue.Comment
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