Large area painting suggestions

[lcm1947]

I was all set to poly the coffee table I'm building when I went out and realized I really don't know the best painting tool to use for a project this large. It's 26"x42" and at first just thought I'd use a 2" brush but got to thinking if I might not do a better job with a 3" or maybe a roller or paint pad or even a roller. I had thought about rubbing it on but since it's a table top thought it best to get a pretty thick coat on it for protection so figured rubbing would require way too many coats to get that thick of protection. Anyway so I thought I'd ask and see what others that do this kind of stuff all the time would recommend. The top is a 26"x42" sheet of oak ply trimmed around the edges with 3/4"x1 1/2" with red oak. I'll be first applying a coat of Bulleye Seal Coat then 3 coats of Olympic water based polyurethane. So any suggestions would as always be more then welcome and appreciated.

[SARGE..g-47]

Morning Mac...

If I were going to brush it on, I use a 3" brush for the size. 4" doesn't give me the control I want when I "tip it off". 2" is too narrow to give effective spread on that large of an area. And regardless of how economic minded (cheap :>) you are, don't chintz on the quality of brush. I have had Purdy's for years and with proper clean up (mineral spirits), use the same brushes for years.

With that said, why not wipe? You want get the bubble effect you can potentially get with brushing. Or you could brush on coat one and sand it as all it really serves to do is fill the pores. You could brush on coat two and sand it lightly also, then follow with 2-3 coats of wipe on to keep down nibs and get a quicker dry time with less exposure to dust.

I just finished a large kithchen table and 4 chairs. 8 coats of wipe-on. I cut the first 4 coats of poly with a 70% P- 30% mineral spirits. The last 4 coats were a 60% poly- 40% mineral spirits. That wiping stuff you pay way to much for is nothing but poly cut with mineral spirits. Mix your own much cheaper and you can control the content mixture instead of them dictating what you wanna do.

And.... let me close by saying don't make the common mistake of getting anxious to get it done as you can almost see the finish line. You have put a lot of work in making it that far... but now is the "most critical" time you have to maintain patience. A lot of effort goes down the tube if you don't take your time. What people will see as an end result is in your hands at this moment. Regardless of how well you built the piece the "final finish" will be what they see first. If you put a sloppy paint job on a well engineered, well built Ferrari, don't expect to get much enthuasiam from those that will view it!

Regards...

[lcm1947]

Thanks for the reply Sarge. I appreciate the advice. So since I am using a water based poly I guess then that I should cut it with water??? Also since the first 2 coats will be the Bulleye Sealcoat you don't mean to cut and wipe that on, right? , you were only referring to the poly. What do you think of brushing the Sealcoat on and then sanding the two coats like you said then wipe on the poly after cutting it with water? This is kind of like what you said but you didn't actually state anything about the Sealcoat unless that's what you meant when referring to the first or second coat but I took that as referring to the poly. Sorry for being so exact but I could take your advice both ways and want to insure I'm understanding correctly. Thanks again.

[SARGE..g-47]

Morning Mac...

Whoa..... I hope you haven't started the project! I was busy in the shop till 1 PM last evening and didn't catch your reply alert till now. Dis-regard my reply as to what I said as I did not catch at the very end of your post you were using water base. And I hope you haven't started yet. If so... I am very sorry and will re-imburse $ you for material.. time and possible frustration. That's the least I can do.

My reply was based on oil-based poly... NOT WATER BASED! I have only used water based once and I applied it with a top quality 3" brush. It flows much easier than un-cut oil based poly and came out great on birds-eye maple.

I am not overly familar with water-based to give advice. Hopefully someone here is and can advise you as I may be using it on a bed and matching chests I will be starting in the next week or so. The principle may be the same with wiping it... but again I don't know that for sure.

If someone cannot advise... go the the Jeff Hewitt web-site or one similar and post a question for some solid advice on water-based with someone that has "been there and done that". I am also interested since I may be using it on a project coming up that would allow the natural color to come through as the water base is clear. I wouldn't use it on any project where water could become a factor as kitchen, bath or coffee table. They may have prefected it to suitably use with water-factor since I last used it about 5-6 years ago, I "just don't know" at this point.

Regards...

[lcm1947]

Hey Sarge thanks for the reply again. No sir hadn't started it yet except to go buy a 3" brush which I needed anyway oh and about $100.00 worth of various sandpaper. Actually your original reply helped a lot. I just will ignore the cutting part. The rest of it seems like it'll apply just find especially about the not getting anixous part cause I would have probably just barreled through it since I hate that part so much. So anyway still got some good info out of the reply and I thank you.

[SARGE..g-47]

Morning Mac...

Whew...... I've been sweating bullets all day in the shop and pressure washing the house. When I came up for coffee, I was afraid to check the computer in fear you had begun. ha.. ha...

As far I as know, you don't do the wipe-on with water base, even though I am not familar at all at this point. Hope to pick up a few pointers on the "good-bad-and ugly" from you before I get to the finish on the bedroom furniture.

I think most of us hate the finish part. I am a pretty good "mechanic" with building the project, but mediocre at best on finish. I have to maintain discipline and take my time while giving it maximum concentration. I have been the "hurry up" route years ago, but discovered it is going to lead to nothing but trouble that you don't need.

Just a suggestion... give each coat plenty of dry time between and if you can avoid using the table for a week or so after you do finish, by all means do so to let those layers "cure'. I have discoverd over the years that it will be much more resistent if cured. Same reason you shouldn't wax a car till after several month once it leaves the assembly line with that pretty, but "uncured" coat of paint.

Regards and good luck, Mac...

[lcm1947]

Hey Sarge. Sorry you went through all that worry but like you saw I hadn't started and still haven't actually. I am slow if nothing else. And yes I agree with you about waiting a week or so before using a project. I am also careful if nothing else well besides the slow part. Thanks for you intended help however and like I said you actually were help so I thank you. Yeah I don't suppose water based poly would wipe too good but should be pretty easy with a brush since it's so thin to begin with. I am really going to take my time though and try to apply it without all the problems I have with painting paint. That never comes out too good but then I've always using crap brushes before too so maybe these new expensive Purdy ones will help. We'll see.