Jointing on router table

[niki]

Good day

In one of my replies to "jointing boards for panel glue-up", I've shown some method of jointing on router table but because, with this method the board was trapped between the Straight edge and the bit, many of you considered it unsafe and I removed the pictures.

But, I did not give up on the method and looked for a safer way to do it because this method not only gives me nice glue-line but also, very consistent width along the board and I use it also for cabinet parts and especially for 45° frame members that consistent width is important.

The set-up went through few versions and I'm posting all the pics from the beginning (because I don't have others) but please refer only to the last part of the pics, those with the "fence".

as you will notice, I'm "shaving" only 0.1 mm (0.004") at every pass and the distance between the board and the "Fence" is 0.3 mm (0.012") which means that in case that "something goes wrong", the board can move laterally only 0.012".
For the pushback phenomena, I have two safety devices, first, I'm using strong grip push-blocks and second I always stand behind the Straight edge or behind the "Fence".

Regards
niki












































That was the old set-up

I added fence that gives me first, safety - the board cannot move so much between the fences and the bit is covered by the fence, and second - only on time adjustment of the bit position.
To joint the other side of the board (or the next board), I just have to re-locate the straight edge

[Hoakie]

Thanks for the write up Niki, however it seems like a lot of work to me. I may be missing something but I found a tip using a single fence with a brass strip (thickness defines amount removed) attached to the outfeed side of the fence. Once it is setup, you can remove a consistent amount of material without adjusting anything for subsequent passes.

I think this video demonstrates the technique. http://www.woodworkingonline.com/200...ks-techniques/

[niki]

Thank you Hakie

It looks like a lot of work but actually it's very fast, it, just takes many words to explain.

The "brass strip" method is the same Principe as the "split fence" method that never worked well for me.

The benefit with my set-up is that you get very uniform or consistent width of the jointed boards that you can not achieve with the "brass" or "split fence" methods.

The problem with the split fence or brass method is that, if the board is curved, it may follow the curve (and maybe that's the reason that it never works for me), especially with long boards.
With my method, the board is guided and supported by the straight edge all they (infeed and outfeed) so it must follow the straight line.

Regards
niki

[Hoakie]

Ok, I see what your are getting at now. I haven't done a lot of router jointing but I'll keep your setup in mind if I have issues.


John

[Ed62]

Very cool, Niki. Thank you for sharing the technique with us. Good thinking!

Ed

[Black wallnut]

Niki, your addition of the second fence should make a bunch of difference in the safe department. A great addition!

[niki]

Thank you for your replies

Black Wallnut
I made the fence mainly for safety but then, suddenly I realized that I can use it as a locator to position the next board and clamp the straight edge, without going again through the procedure of "set the blade at 90° to the board" so, I killed two birds, safety and speed.

niki