Cutting Circles On A Table Saw

[cgallery]

I find it amazing the differing points of view on guards. I personally spent an extra 500$ to get a saw with a riving knife and guard that are so easy to use or remove as the need arises, that I have no excuse but use them.

In my 5 years of owning a table saw, I've never been hurt, which I count as lucky and intelligent use of saftey equipment. The guard certainly can get in the way of some cuts, but I've not found a cut (other than dado) where the RK got in the way. It's nice to have a quick release for it so that my cross cut sled is unimpeded.

That is the PM2000, right?

[drumpriest]

Yes sir, PM2000. The RK system is brilliant. Whole thing comes off or goes on in about 30 seconds.

[niki]

Yes sir, PM2000. The RK system is brilliant. Whole thing comes off or goes on in about 30 seconds.

So is my EB PK 255





In EU it's law (TS must come with Riving Knife and the blade must stop within 10 seconds), in USA it's still privilege.

Did you all noticed that the "guard" is just a piece of plastic that cannot stop any kickback, I'm using the guard mainly for DC but I also noticed that I'm more relaxed when the guard is installed because I don't have to watch the blade and I concentrate on the fence and the push blocks.

I think that you can "Kill" any kickback when it's "still a baby" by using push blocks or push shoes (NOT push sticks) and by pressing the board strong down to the table.





I could not make an experiment but I think that to start a kickback, we requires some energy like to start to move the car from zero MPH we need strong torque (we start moving on the first gear), same with kickback, if we shall press the board down, I don't think that kickback can start.

I had cases that I was cutting twisted board and as usual, I was pressing it down with the push blocks, I heard the saw screaming, yelling and almost telling me "I want to kickback" but I did not release my push down, at the end, the blade stopped and I just kicked the Stop switch with my knee.

I think that accidents on the TS are happening just because one "wants" them to happen otherwise, please somebody explain it to me "what in the name of the seven hills" ones fingers or hands were doing so close and are in such a location that they could slip into the blade. It's against the "TS operating" rules and against any logic or commonsense.

Oh, about the topic, I made 24" circle cut with sled (but with RK and guard installed)




Have a safe work
niki

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I have a much larger sample size than 15 people and can definitively say that splitters and blade guards save body parts. Asserting that one can dump the blade guard and splitter/riving knife is just a haphazard statement bound to cause damages.
As noted the blade guard can and will prevent accidents caused by folks slipping and deflecting off of the guard instead of a blade. No, it will not stop damage to a person if they are standing on top of their saw and throw their total body mass onto the guard and ensuing blade. Is it hard to see where a blade completely encased in plastic is safer than a blade completely exposed?
As far as the splitter/riving knife, utilization of these items are so self evident in benefit it does not really merit discussion.

[Ishmel]

I have to weigh in on this guard/knife/pawls issue here because there is something about the argument that bugs me. I hear people argue that not having a guard on their saw makes them more alert and aware which makes them safer. I am a hunter, and I wonder if the folks who make that argument would argue that carrying a gun with the safety off would make them more alert and a safer hunter.

I don't mean any offense, I just don't see the logic. For the record, I learned to operate at table saw without a guard, and while I don't worry about using a saw without a guard, I prefer to use one with all the standard safety equipment attached.

[scorrpio]

I like to have guard and pawls on when ripping stuff like framing lumber. I ripped some 2x4s where if you put the halves back togeather after the rip, there was an inch-wide gap in the middle due to warp. I never cut anything larger than what I can securely handle. No more than a quarter-sheet on the TS, anything larger is either via jigsaw or circ saw.

For everything else, it's ZCTP and a shop-made riving knife. I always run the blade about 1/8" above the material, so even if I slip, it is likely to be just an (albeit nasty) surface cut. And that said, any cut that would put my fingers close to blade is done using a pushstick.

On the circle cut: there should be no bevel if top edge of board comes in contact with teeth.