Poly - Brush on VS Wipe On

[mzancz]

What’s your guys opinions on Brush on Poly vs the wipe on kind? I have been using a wipe on type and it appears to go on much thinner then a brush on requiring more coats. I guess the benefit of the wipe on is that you will not have brush strokes. Also if you have a finished project, isn’t it easier to use the wipe on rather then the brush on? Lastly can you apply a wipe on over an initial coat of brush on, even if they were different types? Let’s say you do the first coat or do with brush, sand it then follow it up with a coat or two of the wipe on. Just trying to find the easiest and most professional looking way to get it done! Not saying it’s going to be easy but you know what I mean!

[Tom Miller]

I like wipe-on for two reasons: it's easier to get good results, and I think it penetrates better, both because of the lower viscosity.

I would be more inclined to start with a wipe-on coat, and then finish with a brush-on, if your goal is more coverage with fewer coats. What I do, though, is use a 50:50 mix (poly:naptha) for the first coat, then switch to a 2:1 poly:naptha for subsequent wipe-on coats, as a compromise between ease of application, and good coverage.

Regards,
Tom (who does not mean to imply expertise in the area)

[mschrank]

I can't answer your question...yet. I'm going to try wipe-on poly for the first time this weekend.

On a related note, I've seen lots written about wipe-on poly, but can you do the same thing with laquer...i.e., thin it down and wipe it on rather than brush? I love laquer (except for the fumes), but I have trouble with sagging & dripping on anything but a horizontal surface.

[Ken Massingale]

I like wipe on because my brushing technique isn't, and apparently never will be, acceptable to me. Yes the wipe on is thinner and requires more coats, but each coat drys quicker because it is thinner. I think the overall time equals out at the end. I like to use a first coat of Zinsser Seal Coat (dewaxed shellac). This lets the wipe-on poly start to build sooner.

Ken (who also does not mean to imply expertise in the area) ;-D

[JimD]

I like wipe-on but only for projects where I don't mind the yellow or amber tint from the oil based poly. If I want the finish to be clear, I use a water based poly - or actually I am currently using Resisthane at the moment which is a pre-catalyzed lacquer that is water based. You can brush it on small projects but it dries so fast it is better to spray it. Very inexpensive and works great. About $20/gallon delivered. It is rated for kitchen cabinets so it is pretty tough. I've also used a roller with Minwax water based poly on a large project and found that to work pretty well. Spray is the easiest once you have the equipment, however.

Jim

[John Hunter]

I use both, the wipe on I like for projects that would be hard to use a brush on. But for things like table tops I love the brush on.

[big tim]

I had never used a wipe-on poly untill recently and loved it: no brush marks, no bubbles, nice even coat. Yes it takes more coats, but I've been able to put 2 coats on in a day. I used MinWax oil based poly.

Tim

[linear]

I do it just about like Tom Miller. I do a wash coat with my own wipe-on poly made from 50/50 gloss poly varnish and naphtha. then I get the build I want with more coats of poly, thinned less than the wash coat.

As a thinner, naphtha flashes off faster than mineral spirits. So it is my first choice. Why make your own wipe-on poly? a) It's way cheaper, b) you get to control the build, and c) it's way cheaper.

I use old t-shirts for applicators. I have no issues with bubbles or dust nibs in the finish with the method described here. You can scuff between coats with 400 grit or 000 steel wool (I use synthetic) if you like, but I've never had adhesion problems if I skip that step. Use that to flatten if you get any unevenness.

If you want a matte or semigloss finish, you should still use gloss poly for the washcoat and to build the finish. Put the matte or semigloss on for just the top coat. Alternatively, scuff it out to the finish you want. Matte or semigloss varnish has "flatting" agent in it, which will obscure the wood if you use to build, and not produce any more matte-ness than if you just use it on top.

[drumpriest]

Seal-a-Cell and Arm-r-Seal.

Sealer and wipe on poly/tung oil/linseed oil blend.