postformed countertop sources

[Salty]

Does anyone have suggestions on a source for these. After much consideration, I decided to seek out sources for this instead of building my own. There is 1 long run of 11.5' with no corners. Also 2 smaller sections that are 20" long each. I figure that I can handle the sink cutout but also really wanted the beveled edge. That I know I cannot do. The current tops have a rounded corner on the 2 ends that are open, one on the long piece and another on one of the short pieces. I like the looks of the 45'ed corners as opposed to square or rounded.
I picked up a brochure on a place called VT Industries but I have not yet asked for prices.
Was hoping someone here had some ideas.

Thanks all.

Dale

[Bruce Cohen]

Dale,

Look no further, Home Depot or Lowes has both stock and to order post formed laminated counter tops. Although, wanting a beveled edge, you have to go the made to order route.

You'll have to cut the sink hole yourself, most HDs won't allow it to be done, too many mistakes on the customer's part. Also, be sure you have the most exact measurements you can get. They won't take back a screw-up on your part.

You can spec. just about anything you want and most likely get it built.

I'm assuming you're talking about laminated (Wilson -Art or Formica), if you're talking about Corian, the fabricator will come and template for you and install too.

Bruce

[cabinetman]

Dale

My suggestion is to beware of postformed tops, as they are done on particle board. In my rule book, #1 is not to use particle board around the sink or possible moisture areas.

[Salty]

Cabinetman, what is better to use than particle board? The one that is in there now is particle board and I know that some water has gotten under one corner at the sink. That is because of the lack of support on the sink base at the back. Over time, the back of the top sagged and pulled away from the backsplash, which is not postformed. That is why I am now going to replace the entire top instead of trying to resurface it. Seems to me that with proper support and sealant, they should hold up for many years.
Keep in mind here that we plan to sell this place in a few years so I don't want to put in the very best because the new person may just tear it all out.
I went the rout of refinishing the old cabinet boxes so it's not exactly new.
Good suggestion on the box stores Bruce. I had not considered tham because I did not see anything on their wesite that was available in 12 foot length. However, I did call both today and the best deal was at the blue box.
They could get the color and finish we wanted and in the double rolled front, which I like a lot better than the waterfall front. They also have 4' pieces in stock for the 2 smaller tops on each side of the stove.
I would have to install the spacers at the cabinet edges to make up the 1.5" height but that's no problem. I can also cut out the sink hole and cut down the 4' piece for the 2 small sections. It just seems like a better deal for me rather than building new tops myself. I can do it, I have many years ago but I'm older now and more eager to save time and effort than I was then. :-)
I'll still get the costs on the custom tops before making a final decision. Custom tops would be of much better quality and look better, but will be more expensive. VT Industries uses particle board but I am sure it is of better quality then the stuff from blue box.
Also, I recall from a previous workplace, which had a cabinet shop that made commercial countertops, that an important step is to glue on a balance backer on the particle board.
What say you folks about doing that? Or would just a sealer do the job.

Thanks all.

Dale

[cabinetman]

Dale

Purchasing the P/formed tops is really the easy way out, and would be less hassle. If you do that, just make sure you've got waterproof joints at the miters and around the sink.

A more failsafe top would be plywood with plastic laminate. Just because I'm anal about it doesn't mean it's wrong to use P/board.

If you're going that route for countertops, don't worry about laminating the back, just use a sealer. I've done many without doing anything to the backside with no problems.

Your only worry about water from beneath would be some leak that sprays upward, and yes I've seen that.

[Salty]

Thanks Cabinetman.
There are no miters so that is a point in my favor, I hate those. The sink is right in the moddle of the 12' run. I was also thinking that the backsplash would add verticle support as well. However, no matter which way I go, I will be putting blocking under the sink base floor between the house floor and the sink base bottom and then installing 2 pieces of plywood that extend to the top of the cabinet frame. Those 2 pieces will fit on each side of the drain going out the wall. That way I will know for sure it won't sag again.
I am also considering a piece of plywood behind the false fronts to support the front center. Then I can use that as the backer to attach the false fronts.
What do you recoment as a sealing compound between the sink and the countertop laminate? High grade mildew resistant silicone? It looks as though they used plumbers putty on the one that is there now.

Thanks.

BTW...have you priced SS self rimming sinks lately? WOW!! I should have known since stainless steel prices have going through the roof in the last 2 years.

[cabinetman]

Dale

Old schoolers get kinda used to using what works. Before all the million year silicones, there was plumbers putty and certain kinds of caulk.

Whjen I first started doing plastic laminate jobs most were re-mica, and new tops. I started using Polyseamseal Adhesive caulk just as a general caulk. The first time I used plumbers putty around the sink, was when I forgot to bring caulk to the jobsite, and the homeowner had a tub. I didn't hesitate to use it because that was what the old school plumbers were using.

I guess that job hasn't leaked, or I would have heard about it in the last 30 years. But I prefer using the Polyseamseal for a couple of reasons. First, laying a bed for the rim to sit in seems to me to be a water dam to beat heck. Secondly, plumbers putty is fairly thick and has a tendency to separate from itself like in little chunks. I know you're supposed to roll and roll it in your hand before laying it out to soften it.

So in the end here you have it. Either will work, I just prefer the Polyseamseal to the putty. It seems viscous enough while wet to get everywhere it could leak. It's also easier to clean up, and it does have good adhesive qualities. The putty has little to no adhesive qualities but I will say an advantage to the putty is that it keeps longer in that little plastic tub, than a caulking tube with a makeshift cap.

[Salty]

Good call on the Polyseamseal Cabinetman. I had forgotten about that stuff. I used to buy it for customers years ago but never had occasion to use it. Was told then that is good stuff. I'll see if I can find it locally.

Dale