Grizzly Maple Tops?

[lrr]

I'm looking for a small maple top for a kitchen cart. I noticed that Grizzly has really good prices, but I'm confused, and hope someone can help.

The Grizzly catalog (and website) shows TWO products -- maple workbench tops (1.75" thick), and maple counter tops (1.5" thick). The workbench tops, while thicker, are less expensive. The descriptions says they are both made form hard rock maple. So, I called customer service. Talked to 2 different people. Both claimed the countertop models were "probably" a better maple. But, they really were guessing! And the ad described them as basically the same material.

I can only guess that maybe the countertop versions are finished with a nicer edge, (maybe rounded over), or perhaps have NO blemishes, but I have absolutely no idea. Grizzly has sold the workbench versions for a long time, and so the picture in the catalog of a square-edged top is certainly the workbench style.

Sadly, the Grizzly people did not seem particularly interested in solving my dilemma. (Kind of typical today of many places I shop -- pleasant people, but totally clueless about what real customer support means). In spite of this, I'd like to order from them, since they are much more reasonable than going through a specialty house for maple tops.

Has anyone ordered either product, and could possibly share details with me?

Thanks!

[LinuxRandal]

Look at the finishes. One is approved for food use.

[scorrpio]

As described in 2007 catalog:
Our workbench tops are made of solid 1 3/4" USA grown hard rock(sugar) maple strips that are laminated to each other and then coated with food safe Durakryl finish.

The Solid Maple Cabinet Tops are as beautiful as they are functional. While you enjoy the soft grain and subtle color variations of your top, you can also use it as a true cutting surface. Coated with the same food safe Durakryl finish as the workbench tops...

The differences I see:
1. Thickness on countertops is 1 1/2",
2. Depth is a standard 25", ready to install over base kitchen cabinets, whereas workbench tops are 24/30/36.
3. Even though same picture is used, it would appear that more uniform grain/color maple is selected for the countertops to give them better look. I dunno... if look was important to me, I'd probably pick them out myself at a showroom rather than mail order.

Nothing is said about the edges, so I think they are all square-milled. I suppose you can mill the edges using a router, and then finish them using the finish they have on the same page.

[LarryG]

Not exactly on topic, but "food safe finish" is mostly about marketing. Virtually all finishes are food safe when fully cured.

[Kristofor]

I've read/heard that in a number of places too.

I imagine that some small fraction parts per billion of a solvent/constituent component outgassing months later is enough to earn a "This product contains substances known by the state of California to cause cancer in humans" and be unable to market it as such out there...

Lots of folks don't let Californian laws interfere with common sense though!

[lrr]

Well, I'm thinking I'll try the workbench model. I only need 18" depth, so I'll rip it anyway. And since we want square edges, I guess I know at least the workbench models meet that need. The thickness is not that big of a deal, but thicker is probably the way I'd go, all things being equal.

I may try to email their customer support, just to see if I might find support guy #3, who might know how they differ.

[Matt_W]

Now this may differ from what you are ordering from Grizzly but let me share my experience with maple BB workbench tops from McMaster Carr (who also has great prices, you may want to check them out). I bought 2 workbench tops @ 2 1/4" thick from that I bicuited/bolted together for our island top which is 4'x'6' overall. They came in John Boos boxes, who I know also makes "kitchen countertops" that I had looked at so here is where I can see that the workbench tops differed:

1. not all of the rails were full length (but most were)
2. there was varation in the color in the wood, some spots are nice and blond but others are dark
3. Maybe they weren't finished as nicely? I sanded the tops anyway so they worked out fine

The look of them worked out great for me, the wood which must be "seconds" looks more rustic and has more character I think. Way cheaper than using the "kitchen countertops" too.

You can see the BB on my island @ my kitchen gallery:

http://members.cox.net/mwojtaszek/Fi..._Kitchen_2007/

Good luck with your project.

Matt

[BigguyZ]

Matt- that's a beautiful kitchen! Are those countertops concrete? Was that all DIY? I'm impressed/ jealous!

Sorry to get OT....

[lrr]

Matt,

Thanks for the info, and BigguyZ is right -- that is one fantastic kitchen.

BTW -- I did email Grizzly, and got a nice personal reply from a lady there, who said she was forwarding my request to their technical folks. I'll post my results -- and see if Grizzly comes thru. And I'll also check out McMaster Carr.

[Matt_W]

Thanks for the compliments guys. It was a huge 6 month project that was part DIY (if I did it all my self I think it would have taken 3 years!)

The parts I DIYed were:
1. demo
2. island countertop like mentioned above, it is 2 1/4" thick, finished with 6 coats of waterlox
3. perimiter counters- ordered the soapstone slabs and fabricated the myself
4. tile and v-groove backsplashes
5. sanded and finished floor with waterlox
6. all painting
7. also reshingled and redid trim on side of house due to new windows and removed the exterior door
8. Made kitchen table from classic designs table base kit and top from wide planks that covered floor of now gone attic. I am looking for advice on what this wood might be, maybe chestnut? (bottom is red and black milk paint with waterlox on top and top was stained and waterloxed also).
The kitchen was added on I believe in the early 1800s to our 1700s house so I saved all sorts of cool antique wood when we demo'd
9. Also handled all ordering of materials and subcontracting etc.

It cost a bundle but could I feel we saved alot by doing the above.
Sorry to take this off topic!

Lee, good luck with the maple top...one thing I was very wary of and you may want to check on from Grizzly is that the butcher block is not finger jointed. I know for example that the workbench tops from Lee Valley say they are, and I did NOT want to see any finger joints.

-Matt

[scorrpio]

McMaster appears to have higher prices, but their selection looks more extensive - and they got 2 1/4" thick tops which are more suitable for a good workbench...

[skipwill]

Lee,

I ordered the Workbench maple top from grizzley several years ago for an islamd that I built..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/g9914

I am very pleased with it and it was 1/2 the price of others that i saw on the internet.

Pic at http://www.skipwill.com/images/p3050046.jpg

Skip

ps..your kitchen is really nice! I am in the middle of upgrading my kitchen as well...but I am painting the ugly stained cabinets<g>

[lrr]

Skip,

Thanks for info and picture of your Grizzly top. It has been 4 days, and still no word from Grizzly, after I got the email saying they would check with the "experts" ...

I still want to know difference between workbench and countertop models, but apparently I've stumped them really well, or they flat out just do not give a rip about customer support.