Cutting polycarbonate on bandsaw--tips?

[cgallery]

I'm thinking of cutting some 3/8" or 1/2" thick polycarbonate into a circle (approx. 15") on my bandsaw.

I've cut this stuff on the table saw (not circles, of course, and only 1/8" thick) before and it is kinda "catchy." I don't know how else to explain it. Cut can go fine for several inches, then kind of a loud snapping noise, then fine again. The inspected cut edged seem fine, but I don't like the noise.

Will I experience something similar on the bandsaw? Is it safe to cut on the bandsaw? Is chip clearing a problem? Suggested tooth configurations (I have a 3/8" 6TPI on the bandsaw at most times)?

TIA!

[cabinetman]

The 6 TPI is OK, but the 3/8" blade might be borderline. You might get less friction with a 1/4" blade. A sharp one if you got it. If your saw has variable speed, or different speeds, try medium to see if you get any buildup forming on the underside.

[Stytooner]

The more teeth, the better. If cutting on a table saw and it catches, you are doing something wrong. More teeth or different height setting and quit doing whatever you were doing to scare ya.
I cut 3/16" stuff using a 3/8" 10 to 14 tooth bimetal blade.
I think with the thinner stuff, thats about optimal. The thicker stuff you want to cut will need more teeth so you can increase feed speed. The blade you mentioned should do the job very well.
If you are like Rod, you may need to take a Xanax to start with. It will make a fine mess. Nothing a shop vac can't handle though.

[RodKirby]

...If you are like Rod, you may need to take a Xanax to start with. It will make a fine mess. Nothing a shop vac can't handle though.

Not as bad as cutting UHMWPE

[cabinetman]

The more teeth, the better. If cutting on a table saw and it catches, you are doing something wrong. More teeth or different height setting and quit doing whatever you were doing to scare ya.
I cut 3/16" stuff using a 3/8" 10 to 14 tooth bimetal blade.
I think with the thinner stuff, thats about optimal. The thicker stuff you want to cut will need more teeth so you can increase feed speed. The blade you mentioned should do the job very well.
If you are like Rod, you may need to take a Xanax to start with. It will make a fine mess. Nothing a shop vac can't handle though.

Cutting 3/8" to 1/2" with a fine tooth blade will generate quite a bit of heat, and will get the cut gummy. Actually a 6 TPI or a 10 TPI will feed faster than a 14 TPI. The lesser tooth count will allow the chips to clear, if you care to call them chips.

[Stytooner]

When I said more teeth, I was referring to a table saw blade. Using a blade with less than 60 teeth on a 10" blade will cause the snapping effect mentioned. It can actually cause it to crack if it's thin enough. On a table saw, you need more teeth and a slower feed rate.
The BS blade mentioned should do the job. Polycarbonate is not like acrylics and some other plastics. It takes a heck of a lot of heat to get it gummy. I'd say around 375 to 400 degrees F. If you are getting polycarbonate gummy when cutting, you need fewer teeth, a narrower blade or more feed speed on a band saw. Jig saws are even worse at creating heat than the BS.
A router is a good tool to use on polycarbonate. It's what I would choose over the BS for a more finished cut. It would still require sanding and polishing, but not as much as with the BS. Rough cut it first with the BS. Then use a template and a carbide pattern bit and you should wind up with a closer to finished product.