Melemine for router table?

[JR]

I have some white laminate (melamine-type) left over from a closet project. I'm thinking of using it as a router table surface.

This stuff is 5/8" thick particle board. I was thinking of bonding it to 3/4" plywood, making a table 1-1/8" thick. There will be a router plate embedded in the melamine.

1. Is this material a good idea for this application?
2. Is the overall thickness enough for a router table?
3.How would I bond the melamine and plywood together?

TIA,
JR

[Popeye]

1. Yes
2. Yes
3. I dunno......... I'm sure that you could rough the melemine surface and bond it to the plywood with something, I'm just not sure what would work the best. A epoxy maybe.
Wish I could have found melemine today for my new table. Lowes down here in Metro Camden county doesn't carry it wider than a shelf board Pat

[cabinetman]

I have some white laminate (melamine-type) left over from a closet project. I'm thinking of using it as a router table surface.

This stuff is 5/8" thick particle board. I was thinking of bonding it to 3/4" plywood, making a table 1-1/8" thick. There will be a router plate embedded in the melamine.

1. Is this material a good idea for this application?
2. Is the overall thickness enough for a router table?
3.How would I bond the melamine and plywood together?

TIA,
JR

Melamine does make for good tops. The color thickness isn't equal to even the thinest formica (1/32"). It's a low pressure laminate finish versus formica which is a high pressure laminate.

As for the 5/8" thickness being thick enough, depending on how large a top you'll be making it may be enough on its own. Of course glueing it to 3/4" ply is a "cats pajamas" cure. To glue the two together, scuff up the one side and just contact cement the two together. Or if you get energetic, use Gorilla glue, or any single component polyurethane glue and follow instructions. Be careful with the Gorilla glue. You would moisten one side with water (I would do the ply side), then press together with pressure. You'll get some foaming when it kicks off, so don't get too happy puttin' too much glue down. Two part epoxy would also work.

The contact cement method will work. There won't be a lot of separating pressure to the pieces. You could also predrill, and countersink 1-1/4" coarse thread screws from the plywood to the melamine. Don't drive them too deep. If you just did that it would be sufficient, and would make changing out the melamine for when you have totally worn it out, or damaged the surface.

[JR]

Ah, contact cement! I hadn't thought of that, but I'll bet it's the perfect solution. Thanks, C'man.

With any luck I'll have the new table/extension for my BT done this weekend. Of course, there's the small matter of a fence. But's that's a tale for another day.

Thanks, guys.

JR

[LarryG]

Melamine-faced particleboard (I assume it's on both sides, since you asked about bonding) glued onto 3/4" plywood will result in an unbalanced assembly ... partly in thickness, but mainly in substrate material. The two materials will react differently with temperature and humidity changes. You might get away with it; it might stay flat. But if you have enough, it would be better to use two layers of the particleboard -- either glued directly together, or sandwiched around the 3/4" plywood core in a balanced, three-layer assembly.

As for durability, it will be just fine. Many people are unaware that the visible wearing surface of all plastic laminates is exactly the same stuff ... the only difference between the various grades is the thickness of the backer sheets. Melamine is nothing more or less than the finish paper used on all laminates applied directly to a substrate (in this case, particleboard).

[Black wallnut]

Melamine will work fine, it just is not as long wearing as formica as stated (this has been my expierence.) Depending on how much you will be using your router table it could be several years to many years. Once it does wear you'll probabally want to be building a new router table anyway. I'd use the poly glue and screw method to attach it to the plywood. IMHO it would be hard to exert enough pressure to establish a good bond with contact cement.

[JR]

The two materials will react differently with temperature and humidity changes. You might get away with it; it might stay flat. But if you have enough, it would be better to use two layers of the particleboard

Hmm, hadn't thought about the different materials acting differently. I do have enough for two layers, but was concerned that two layers of 5/8" particle board might be a bit flex-y.

I have enough room for two layers of melemine, but not enough for the sandwich.

JR

[cabinetman]

For creating the bond between the plywood and the melamine using contact cement, a block of wood and hammer work just fine. If you are concerned with any differentiation in the plywood, just put some coats of oilbase polyurethane on the underside of the bare plywood to seal it. The melamine board is stable on its own.

[T-Bone]

My router table is made exactly as you described (5/8" melamine and 3/4" plywood). I didn't bother with the glue - just decided to put in plenty of screws. I built the table several years ago and have never had a problem with it. I recently checked it and it hasn't bowed at all. I do, however, have 2 intermediate supports so that may help. My top is something like 24 x 36. I wrapped the table with solid wood to protectg the melamine edges. The top has a few places where the melamine has chipped off but I just put a little poly on those spots.

If I ever make another router table, I will probably use formica. Not because melamine doesn't work, but because formica will probably outlast me.

[JimD]

I bought some melamine glue years ago that I used in making cabinets out of melamine. It is like white or yellow glue in appearance but sticks to anything (including skin). If you can find it, it is not expensive and works pretty well.

Jim

[lcm1947]

I used the exact material you plan to use about a year ago and used screws to bond the two together. I believe I got the idea from Loring. Anyway it works great for me. The only thing I would caution is where you place the screws. After building it I decided I wanted to install some t-track in front for using a miter qauge but had to move some screws around. And like T-bone I wrapped the edges with hardwood.

[JR]

I got the basic table and cabinet built last weekend. Then I discovered I didn't have the proper pattern bit to use on the cut out for the insert. Of course HD and Sears are no help...

I went with the melamine over ply, with glue and screws. The Melamine is edged in iron-on white edgeband. I'll try to get pics this weekend.

JR