Tip For Applying Moulding

[cabinetman]

This is an old technique and has been around a while, so if you already know it don't read any further.

If you are to using a finish nail or brad and are nailing it in with a hammer, and don't have the correct drill bit to pre drill a hole, take one of the finish nails (a straight one) and cut off the head. Use the nail in your drill pointy end into the wood, and drill a hole.

When hammering in the nail, stop when the nail head is just above the moulding, and seat the head into the moulding with a nail set.

[crokett]

Or you can just use a brad nailer and a compressor. Seriously, good tip. I've used it a couple times. You can also leave the head on and use the drill to spin the nail into the wood, then use a nailset to seat the head.

[cabinetman]

Or you can just use a brad nailer and a compressor. Seriously, good tip. I've used it a couple times. You can also leave the head on and use the drill to spin the nail into the wood, then use a nailset to seat the head.

I thought you meant putting the nail in the drill and then with both hands raise the drill above you head and bash the nail into the wood. Then unchuck the nail and tap it in with a nail set.

[IBBugsy]

I thought you meant putting the nail in the drill and then with both hands raise the drill above you head and bash the nail into the wood. Then unchuck the nail and tap it in with a nail set.

I thought I would read something about blunting the end of the nail before driving it into the wood. My dad did this, I think, when the nail would be near the end of a board so it wouldn't split the board. Is this right??

[cabinetman]

I thought I would read something about blunting the end of the nail before driving it into the wood. My dad did this, I think, when the nail would be near the end of a board so it wouldn't split the board. Is this right??

I would first like to explain that what you quoted me saying was said in jest to crockett, and had no validity. As far as blunting the end of a finish nail, I just don't know. I've heard that before, and I think it's an urban legend that just keeps on going, like some jokes I heard in high school, I still hear today.

I haven't tried it to see, as I always predrill in that situation.

[leehljp]

The "blunting" of a nail applies to tapping the end of a nail with the hammar to blunt out the sharpness. This prevents the sharp end from acting as a pure wedge which will "split" wood in some situations. The blunted end will crush the immediate wood in its path rather than pushing it aside. I have used this when I wanted a good hold, knew that I would probably get a "split" and the appearance was not necessarily the issue. With cabinet making and moulding, appearances are as much an issue as the function. Some hard woods don't like blunt ends and some pieces will split with the sharp ends of a nail, so the only solution is drilling a pilot hole.

It is probably used more in the carpentering and framing mindset but can be applied to moulding if care is taken. But here again, it works best with experience. I have done it several times over the years when I needed to replace a piece here or there, had cracked the wood at least once and did not have a drill close by. This is almost a moot point now (for me) as I have a cordless drill driver or impact driver within hand's reach on every little one screw or even one nail project.

I was taught this trick by an uncle, saw it used by many and used it myself. it is not an urban legend even if they may decide to say that it is. If anyone has a little time to lose and experiment with, try this. Get a piece of 1 x 4 about 2 or 3 feet long. Get a nail about 2 inches long; About 1/2 to 3/4 in from the end, hammer it through. If you get a split, take another nail and blunt the end just a tad (relative word) and try again. Most of the time you will be able to hammer the blunted end nail in without splitting the wood.

The reason that this technique was used, is that way back when - 40 to 50 years ago - when the framers and carpenters were the cabinetmakers too, lots of different specialty nails and screws were not available for every situation like they are today. Neither were the small drill bits carried around for pre-drilling as a norm. The solution was the blunted nail.

Related issue:
There was a special nail, that is hard to find today, which was used for cabinet moulding and was called the cabinet maker's brad back then. Where I lived, it was only used in more expensive and wealthy people's homes. It was a very small diameter, headless, very hard, very strong in tensil strength. but weak latterally. Once the nail was in to the desired depth, with at least 1/4 inch left above the moulding, a slight tap to the side would cause the nail to snap off about 1/32 below the surface. Woodhaven has the brad (called the Wonder Brad by them) here:
http://www.woodhaven.com/detail.aspx?ID=353