What's my best, first spray finish to try

[ironhat]

I have the stain layed up a bit heavy on this piece so that I could get better color saturation - deeper color - and I don't want to do a wipe on finish for fear that the second coat, which I wiped lightly, isn't disturbed. I have the $50 HVLP sprayer from HF which I haven't tried yet which I do intend to try before shooting the finished project. What's my best choice of topcoats for this?

Later,
Chiz

[wardprobst]

Depends on what use you put it to. I'd use shellac if you won't be setting hot and cold drinks, etc on it. If it's heavy use then poly based varnish works well. I've had good luck with Flecto Varathane but there are other good brands.
DP

[ironhat]

Apologies for my omission there, DP . This a shoerack done in cherry to match the kitchen cabs so it's going to see water and abrasion.
HTH,
Chiz

[ironhat]

Anyone else care to offer a suggestion? Please!?

TIA,
Chiz

Oh yea, do you folks agree that a brush on finish would disturb the stain but to a lesser degree? I checked the pieces last night and it doesn't seem to rub off but I know how finishes tend to loosen things a bit. Help!

[JimD]

I have sprayed Minwax Polycrylic successfully but it is pretty thick. I use a Wagner conversion gun which is a pressure feed so it probably handles thick stuff better than your HF. More recently, I started using Hydrocote Resisthane. Hoodfinishing.com has it at a very good price (I think it was about $20/gallon). It is rated for kitchen cabinets so it is pretty tough. You can recoat in an hour. water based so cleanup is easy. Was rated a best buy by Finewoodworking. It is a pre-catalyzed lacquer. Looks like a polyurethane to me, however. I put 5 coats on oak to make sure I had enough coverage for durability thinking the lacquer part might mean it is pretty thin. At a coat an hour and a half (extra time to scuff and vacumn), it doesn't take long to get done, even with 5 coats.

Jim

Jim

[jeff_1064]

Go with Hydrocote...I teach woodworking at the high school level and when I switched from MW poly to Hydrocote the results were amazing! It will not yellow like poly...it is resistant to water...it is a "hard" finish. Lots of good things about this finish....and at $20 a gallon you can't go wrong! It is worth the money!

I will normally spray 2 coats...dry to the touch in 20 min. then recoat. after 24 hours you are able to sand with 400 grit then apply a wax if desired....again another plus....no sanding sealer required!

[ironhat]

What about stains, jeff? What are you using?

[jeff_1064]

We use both Minwax stains and Hood Finishing wiping stains. Personally I like the Hood Finishing Products better than Minwax. Hoods's stains seem to cover more uniform. I am very happy with the products my students have used from Hood...

Steps for finishing I use in my classroom:

- sand to 220 or 400 (your preference)

- remove all dust with either compressed air or wiping it down with a lint free rag will a little bit of mineral spirits on it

- Stain

- blow off with compressed air

- 1st coat of Hydrocote (spray with the grain then across the grain, thats what the manufacture recomends)

- wait 20 min (it will be dry to the touch in 20min)

- 2nd coat of Hydrocote

- wait 24 - 72hours (depending on how sever your ADHD is)

- sand with 400 to remove and dust that might have gotten into the finish

- 3rd coat of Hydrocote if needed
- wait 24 hours
- sand with 400 lightly

- blow off with compressed air

- apply Johnson's Paste Wax with a fine steel wool pad or lint free cloth

- wait 10 min. until wax is semi dry

- Buff off leaving no wax residue on the project

This is the process my students use in my classroom. The only way that they have screwed up is by putting too much finish on and getting a drip, not waiting the proper dry time and dammaging the finish because it hasen't cured yet, touching the project while it is wet and leaving finger prints, not sanding properly to remove machine marks or wrtiting marks....etc....the list could go on....

If you have any questions feel free to e-mail me at jdwykrent@ppps.org I can send pictures and plans....but for some reason I can't upload them on this site from work . If you live in Michigan and want to stop in one day just e-mail me...I am located just west of Kalamazoo Michigan. We are able to atempt to answer questions you may have...some of the unique things we do in shop are: steam bending, working with azek for out door projects (PVC stock that doesn't rot), bandsaw boxes, mini pool tables...etc.

Jeff