Caulk or Not

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  • crokett
    The Full Monte
    • Jan 2003
    • 10627
    • Mebane, NC, USA.
    • Ryobi BT3000

    #1

    Caulk or Not

    I finally finished the counters (story and pics to come). We decided to go with no backsplash - the walls will be painted. Question is, should I seal between the counter and the wall? The self-leveling compound did a pretty good job of forming to the wall but should I seal before I paint anyway?
    David

    The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.
  • mschrank
    Veteran Member
    • Oct 2004
    • 1130
    • Hood River, OR, USA.
    • BT3000

    #2
    Is there any reason you wouldn't want to caulk?

    Given the amount of water that ends up on a counter, especially around the sink, I would want all the insurance I could get. While the concrete formed tight to the wall, I'll wager that there will be some movement over the years and small gaps will form. The flexibility of caulk will help keep things sealed.
    Mike

    Drywall screws are not wood screws

    Comment

    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15216
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #3
      I ditto what Mike said. By all means caulk. In fact if you want to be really cool, use this color matching caulk. Here is one site. It's called Kampel Color Flex.
      http://www.ravsupply.com/home/rs1/page_269

      Comment

      • crokett
        The Full Monte
        • Jan 2003
        • 10627
        • Mebane, NC, USA.
        • Ryobi BT3000

        #4
        You are right Mike. No real reason not to. Got any tips for a neat line? Caulking is one thing I never really learned to do neatly.
        David

        The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

        Comment

        • JSCOOK
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2006
          • 774
          • Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
          • Ryobi BT3100-1

          #5
          Originally posted by crokett
          You are right Mike. No real reason not to. Got any tips for a neat line? Caulking is one thing I never really learned to do neatly.
          Lay a strip of painters tape straight along the entire length on both side of where you want to caulk, spacing it the size of the bead you desire ... typically around 3/8".

          Run a bead down the length, wet your pointer finger and smooth it out to form a nice curve ... then carefully pull the tape up to provide you with straight edges ... recommend you test this on some scrapes before doing it for the first time.
          "Experience: that most brutal of teachers. But you learn, my God do you learn". by C.S. Lewis

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          • ragswl4
            Veteran Member
            • Jan 2007
            • 1559
            • Winchester, Ca
            • C-Man 22114

            #6
            Lowes has a nice little tool for this caulking experience. It is about 3" long, has a red handle about an inch wide. On the end is a 90 degree piece of some type of rubber that the caulk does not stick to. Tape the wall, lay the caulk, run this tool down the edge and leaves a professional looking caulk line. I can do it, anyone can. Its a neat tool, about $3 or $4.
            RAGS
            Raggy and Me in San Felipe
            sigpic

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            • cabinetman
              Gone but not Forgotten RIP
              • Jun 2006
              • 15216
              • So. Florida
              • Delta

              #7
              I just use a wet finger (really).

              Comment

              • Cheeky
                Senior Member
                • Nov 2006
                • 862
                • westchester cty, new york
                • Ridgid TS2400LS

                #8
                painters tape always yields a nice clean line. i wet my finger and also keep a wet paper towel in my other hand for those really long runs.

                i know phenoseal matches calk to specific colors, the only downside is it's $25 for the lab fee plus the 6 bucks or so for the product. but it looks awfully nice.

                you can also use the new GE XST paintable silicone caulk (best out there IMO), and retape the caulk line after it sets for a good couple days and actually paint the line with your own matched paint concoction.
                Last edited by Cheeky; 02-13-2007, 08:44 PM.
                Pete

                Comment

                • Slik Geek
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2006
                  • 708
                  • Lake County, Illinois
                  • Ryobi BT-3000

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Cheeky
                  i wet my finger and also keep a wet paper towel in my other hand for those really long runs.
                  you can also use the new GE XST paintable silicone caulk (best out there IMO),
                  Ditto on the wet finger technique. Works best for me too.

                  Haven't used the caulk that you cited, but my experience with silicone caulks has been that they don't smooth as nicely as other types. Is this one different? (Or am I inept!?)

                  Comment

                  • Greg in Maryland
                    Established Member
                    • Nov 2006
                    • 250
                    • Montgomery Village, Maryland
                    • BT3100

                    #10
                    Originally posted by crokett
                    You are right Mike. No real reason not to. Got any tips for a neat line? Caulking is one thing I never really learned to do neatly.
                    I tried a ice cube with some success

                    Greg

                    Comment

                    • mschrank
                      Veteran Member
                      • Oct 2004
                      • 1130
                      • Hood River, OR, USA.
                      • BT3000

                      #11
                      After replacing most of the interior and all the exterior trim on my house, I guess I've gained some caulking experience.

                      The best "tip" I can give is to cut the tip of the nozzle very close to the end (at about a 30/60 degree angle...just hold the gun in the "in use" position and you'll see the angle to cut). You can always cut more off the tip to make a bigger bead.

                      My first few caulking jobs I always cut off too much and ended up with a huge bead and caulk everywhere.

                      Have plenty of damp rags handy...and a bottle of mineral spirits if you're using silicone (not really necessary for interior work...and most silicone caulks aren't paintable). I usually use clear paintable "Polyseamseal." It comes out of the tube white, but dries clear.

                      When I run the bead, I don't usually bother with the tape, but it's a good idea (just make sure you remove it immediately, unless you like the look of blue painters tape borders). I hold my finger right at the tip and smooth the bead as I pull the gun along. If too much caulk starts squeezing out around your finger, just increase your speed.

                      Finally, make sure your caulk gun is one that allows you to instantly release the spring tension. Nothing worse than setting the gun down to admire your work only to have caulk continue oozing out.
                      Mike

                      Drywall screws are not wood screws

                      Comment

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