How do I get this off witout ruining a cutting edge?

[ironhat]

I built a shoe rack and edged the plywood shelves with 3/16" poplar strips, securing them with glue and 18ga brads. Now, I've decided to put a piece of 1/4" ply on the backside to enclose it. How do I get this strip off without damage to the ply or to any cutting edge? The evil tempter In my head says, "Run it throught the table saw. The brads are soft - be ye not afraid". But I am afraid (I say as I clutch my wallet). What say you, you brothers of the cloth - er, wood??!!

Later,
Bro. Chiz

[Garasaki]

If I understand correctly, you are saying you want to remove the edge band on your shelves?

Can I ask...why??

[Russianwolf]

the blade can handle cutting the brads, but I would use a cheap blade (even a cheap 7 1/4 inch circular saw blade) just so as not to risk your good blade.

[ironhat]

<snip> Now, I've decided to put a piece of 1/4" ply on the backside to enclose it. <snip>
Later,
Bro. Chiz

Actually, Garaski, I'm only planning to remove the one on the back. Leaving it on and adding a plywood back will push the front of the shelf too far forward. Sorry 'bout the confusion.

Rusianwolf, probably the best course. Cheap blades I have.

Thanks,
Chiz

[cabinetman]

What you could do is take a 1/4" chisel and clear an area around the brad head and yank it out. Or, Chisel off the moulding at the area of the brad and it may come off with the moulding, if not, pull it out. I hate cutting brads even with a bad blade. Or, put a metal cutting blade in your jigsaw and cut it off close and then block sand flat. Or, just take a nail set and drive the brad past the moulding into the shelf, and then cut off moulding on the TS.

[ironhat]

<snip> Or, just take a nail set and drive the brad past the moulding into the shelf, and then cut off moulding on the TS.

Now, that *and* an old blade to cut off the strip (just in case) sounds like the ticket. Boy, am I learning a lot on this project - due to the number of mistakes I've made!

Later,
Chiz

[scorrpio]

I have a real sharp trim crowbar. Set the claw at an angle near a brad, a few hammer taps to drive the claw tips into the wood and under brad head, then pull the brad out. Works like a charm. I had to take the store-bought bar to a grinder to get it as sharp as I wanted.

[Black wallnut]

A safer way would be, using a nail set, hammer the brads into the plywood beyond the edge. Then use an old carbide saw blade. I once cut into a brad that the blade caught, pulling the brad and launching it into one of my fingers. IIRC it penetrated about 3/16" and was somewhat painfull. If you try to just cut through the brads make sure you use a blade guard and protective eyewear. Hopefully the guard will catch any brads that might get pulled.

[scmhogg]

If you saw, prepare for shrapnel. Eye protection, full face shield, Kevlar vest. . .

Steve

[drumpriest]

I've accidentally cut brads before, and it ruined a couple of teeth on my freud blade. These were fixed later by a sharpener. If you know or suspect that you're goning hit one, use a cheapy blade.

[ironhat]

Mission accomlished using a very small nail set driving the brad 'below grade' and trimmed the piece off with an old carbide blade - just in case. I wish I could talk myself out of making revisions of the project while it's in process. Seems to be my nature. There's that and the fact that I just didn't pre-plan the project enough and the design flaws show their ugly face while the project is being built. Then, it's modify a dimension and live with it. Unfortunately, it bugs me every time I look at the finished piece, seeing what no one else sees.
Thanks, all,
Chiz