Matching a finish

[dlminehart]

My bed upgrade (see "bed bolt" thread) involves adding a foot board to an existing ash bed. The bed is about 18 years old, natural colored but slightly yellowed, with nitrocellulose lacquer semi-gloss finish. I'd like the new foot board to match reasonably well.

Any suggestions about (1) matching the slight yellowing; (2) matching the existing lacquer?

I'd been considering a very dilute yellow stain, topped with a brush-on lacquer. But wondered if a oil-based polyurethane, with its amber tint, might do as well.

[crokett]

I'd be interested in the replies. LOML has approved trimming the counters in wood provided I can match the floor. I will probably take a piece of flooring to the store tomorrow and see if I can find something reasonably close.

[cabinetman]

My bed upgrade (see "bed bolt" thread) involves adding a foot board to an existing ash bed. The bed is about 18 years old, natural colored but slightly yellowed, with nitrocellulose lacquer semi-gloss finish. I'd like the new foot board to match reasonably well.

Any suggestions about (1) matching the slight yellowing; (2) matching the existing lacquer?

I'd been considering a very dilute yellow stain, topped with a brush-on lacquer. But wondered if a oil-based polyurethane, with its amber tint, might do as well.

This is a very unique situation. What you have in the existing color is a certain variety (specific to itself) section of wood that has received treatment for a film finish. What has contributed to its color is time and finish. Now you are wanting to match a different wood section (not of the same batch) and apply finish so the immediate color will match.

All I can say is you may get lucky. I would start with a scrap of the new wood and mix a waterbased dye in graduating strengths. The dye itself is a powder that will mix easily and the affect can also be as graduating. The results of waterbased dye are minimal in weak mixtures, but the dye will penetrate immediately and dry very fast. You may try more of the same mix after it dries in lieu of strengthening the formula.

You could also try methanol based aniline dye. Its more concentrated than the waterbased dye and won't raise the grain. I haven't had any real problems with grain raising that amounted to a hoot. I suggest keeping track of the mixture quantities exactly. I always keep a record of the mix ratios. You may have to go to the grocery store and pick up a cheap set of measuring spoons that start at 1/4 teaspoon, and have specific measures up to tablespoon. Get an easy to read measuring cup (clear glass) that you should read at horizontal eye level for proper volume levels.

With a pad and paper, start off with 1/4 teaspoon of powder and a quantity of water. For intermediate measures you can split the lines between two lines of water. It's easier for intermediate measures to be achieved by varying the water amount. When using the measure spoons, fill the spoon lightly and use a straight edge of some sort to scrape off the top of the spoon for an exact amount of powder.

Once you have developed a color very close to the desired color, apply the finishes in an order that can be recorded. For the brush on lacquers, they will dry clear, even in multiple coats. You can buy from some industrial suppliers, like Sherwin Williams, a lacquer that is called "water white" which means it is water clear. If you have no spray capabilities, buy some retarder (liquid) and it will be brushable. Don't add too much as an over retarded lacquer will be chemically affected to the point of having its hardening properties defeated to some degree.

As for oil based polyurethane and varnishes, it will be difficult to judge the "ambering" effect until all the coats have been applied and each has dried . I'm not saying this won't work, but remember, that whatever immediate result you achieve will get darker over time. I've got to add that a dried finish is not cured completely, but sufficient to judge color.

Then you have the "orange shellac" finish which goes on amber. This too may be hard to control, but you may cut the "amberness" by mixing "orange" (also called amber) with clear.

Waterbase polyurethane will go on and may appear milky, but will dry clear.

Any of the finishes can be dressed with 0000 steel wool to reduce the sheen and luster.

Another possibility would be to use a universal dye powder that is compatible with the type of finish you are using to tint the finish. If your final process is to only tint the finish, the color saturation of the finish may obscure the look of the wood.

To get the best results, you may have to spend considerable time making many samples that you will ultimately be pleased with. I have spent days on some finishes in order to come up with satisfactory results. Patience is the product. Using the "sample" method will provide the mediums for application technique which may be just wiping on minimal amounts, or laying on an actual "coat". Whatever steps you go through, or whatever materials you apply must be dry in between applications and before you make final judgement. Just think of this as creative fun.

[Pappy]

Cabinetman beat me to the punch! That is almost word for word what I was going to say.

[dlminehart]

Thanks, Cabinetman! No wonder my daughter doubts I can ever get a decent match! The process is probably worth going through, just as an exercise for when I really DO need to do this kind of thing!