How to attach fake muntins to window?

[Lonnie in Orlando]

Can you tell me how to attach fake wood muntin grills to single pane glass windows?

I am modifying new double hung windows that have one solid glass in the top sash -- to replicate the look of the original "nine over one" double hung windows in our 1908 bungalow. I have made wood muntin grills for the inside and outside. Now I need to attach them to the glass.

> I want to attach them permanently.
> Painted clear pine inside. Approx 3/4" X 3/4"
> Painted cypress outside. Approx 1/4" X 1/4" Will be glazed to spread to 3/4" wide at glass.
> Must brave the Central Florida sun / heat / rain

I'm thinking clear silicone. Any better ideas? Any experience attaching wood to glass?

Thanks,

- Lonnie

[Ed62]

Are you sure you want to attach them to the glass? It *might* be a better option to attach them to the wood in a way that you could remove them for window cleaning. Just a suggestion.

Ed

[Lonnie in Orlando]

I could possibly make the interior ones removable, but the exterior must be permanent.

Thanks,

- Lonnie

[Ed62]

Then I think the clear silicone would work well. Of course you might get a better option from others. If not, that's the way I'd go.

Ed

[whitecobra]

Lonnie
Living in O-town as well I can tell you there is NOTHING you can use to EFFECTIVELY attach them to the outside
I would do as suggested and that is attach them to the WOOD on the inside
If you look at newer storm approved windows they are ONLY on the inside and only attached to the framing and the inside is simply show through the window as if it were on the outside as well

Dr D

[Lonnie in Orlando]

Dr D.

Orlando climate is murder! I must have applied muntins on the outside. Most of the exterior muntins will be covered with Dap33 glazing compound, like true divided lights. I hope that it will help preserve the adhesive and the wood.

Any suggestions on how to attach the interior muntins to the sash, instead of the to the glass?

FYI -
We are completing a 2-yr remodel / rebuild after Hurricane Charlie. One of the main design criteria was to have new windows match the adjoining original windows both outside and inside. New building codes prohibit true divided lights. The contractor said that he could duplicate the look, but he kept dragging his feet so I took it on.

- Lonnie

[cabinetman]

A suggestion for the outside. If you have bare wood to work with, you could attach to the window (if you have good mating surfaces) with TiteBond III, or epoxy, and predrill a small hole (like a pocket hole) and tap in a small finish nail. Just a tip on that is that if you take a finish nail that you will use, cut off the head and use it for the drill bit. Pick an absolutely straight one. This works pretty good especially if you don't have that expensive set of drill bits of every conceivable size. Then fill the holes and paint.

For the inside, if you have made the grid in one piece, you could insert these spring catches on the edge (pictured below). They are small and I think they get pressed into a 3/8" hole. That would allow the frame to be easily removed and replaced without damage.



A THING OF BEAUTY IS A JOY FOREVER - John Keats

[whitecobra]

Lonnie
I guess I do not understand the "must have applied on the outside" part

What you are asking for is a guarantee that the next hurricane we get they WILL rip off and that is a GUARANTEE

I know of no acceptable adhesive that will bond the frame lights to glass. BTW the contractor was full of crap. There are MANY manufacturers who make 9 over one HURRICANE approved windows. YES they are one piece glass and the muntins are in between the two panes but the point is IF you want the look it is available in a version that will hold up to our hurricane requirements

As for the inside units they are easy since they simply mount to the side and B+T frames with finishing nails

Use a cope and stick bit in your router to match the side moldings and then build the 9 by frame to fit the opening. Place the frame against the existing window frame and glue and nail as needed to the frame

But as I said this is the biggest Rube Goldberg method I have seen. It blatantly isn't going to work AND hold up to code (and the next Cat 3)

If I was your neighbor I would be *****ing up a storm (no pun intended) since the outside fake frames are either going to be tossed through YOUR windows or his at the next storm. Why waste your time for a design that is going to fail?

Dr Dave