Cove molding question

[ryanps]

I am currently building a 7 drawer chest-on-chest dresser. The plans call for 5/8" cove molding in a few places. On the attached picture I've marked with red arrows where the molding should more or less be. I have a length of molding from the local BORG which is 3/4". I held the 3/4" molding up to the dresser and I now see that really the 5/8" would be nicer and not so overpowering. But, nobody carries 5/8" molding. I did use my router and made a short section but it was rather tedious. Could I use my jointer to reduce the size of the 3/4" or is that just too risky an operation?
Thanks in advance.
Ryan

[Brian G]

Ryan,

That looks great.

As tedious as you felt it was to make the 5/8" moulding, I'll bet (what, I don't know ) that's what you'll end up doing anyway.

Personally, I think it would be safer and quicker in the long run to make it by using your router rather than trying to use a jointer to trim it down. Another advantage is that you have the opportunity (I hope) to use the same stock for the moulding that you used in the rest of the project. You'll get a better color match that way.

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished project!

[Black wallnut]

Ryan not having a jointer myself I can only guess on how safe this would be. My guess is that there are probabaly better ways. A thickness planer woud be better. You could rip on the tablesaw although that could also have its risks. I would use a router table to route the molding on a wide board then rip off the molding. This is assuming that you are talking about an applied molding.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I think you can do it on the jointer. Just be very careful as you will be working with some quite thin stock by the time you get down to 5/8" (considering the width and everything). I would simply put the 90 degree side on the table and fence and take off 1/32" at a time. Flip it around and do the other side. As always, wear glasses and make sure to use push blocks and keep your hands far away from the cutterhead should something "happen" while you are doing this rather delicate operation.
I think doing it on the TS would be problematic since you are going to have very little material in contact with the fence and as you work down you are going to have thin edge that could get under the fence. I don't see how you could do it on a thickness planer.

Edit : Also make sure you visualize what it is going to look like after you do this. Most cove molding have the ledge on the cove that will be gone when you do what you are suggesting. That may look odd.

[jAngiel]

I have never done it myself (yet), but what I have read is to buy some board stock the correct thickness cut a cove on the edge and the use a table saw to slice it off and then repeat until the piece is too small or you have enough.

As I said though I have never done this myself but it sounds easy enough.

[sbd1]

Cut your 5/8x5/8 blank stock. Use carpet tape to attach these blanks to a wider board (can be any thickness) as long as your bottoms are flush. Do it in multiple passes to avoid tearout. Care when pulling the piece off the carpet tape is pretty strong.

[hermit]

I agree with those that say make your own from 5/8 stock wide board and rip the moulding off. I have done some of these tedious jointer operations, and basically have ended the practice. Once the piece jumps out from the cutter head, it kind of scares you straight.

Todd

[JimD]

You can rip it down on the table saw but I wouldn't use the jointer. Little pieces like this can get chewed up on any machine you use on them (so use push sticks and keep you hand away from the blade). The jointer will be difficult to control the thickness with for something this flexible.

I have made a fair amount of 5/8 cove moulding out of oak. There is a cabinet in our family room with this cove top and bottom and a large entertainment center in our bedroom and two nightstands all with 5/8 cove top and bottom. Combined with a thumbnail (1/2 roundover and 1/4 roundover), it makes a really nice look. This appears to be what you are doing. To make this moulding, I use my router table with a 1/2 cove bit and my BT3100. I cut the cove in 2 or 3 passes, it's too much wood to hog out in one cut IMHO and the resulting moulding is too rough to use without sanding. If you make multiple cuts with the last one being very light, you may be able to skip the sanding. I make the moulding cut on a wider piece and then rip it to 5/8 on the table saw. It is still 3/4 or 13/16 in the other dimension so I just flip it and rip again. You need to pay attention ripping stuff this flexible but I don't consider it hard. USE PUSH STICKS. let the moulding get ruined if you have to but don't put your hand near the blade.

Jim