Kitchen Cabinet Door Question

[tryrrthg]

Hello everyone. I've been lurking here for a little while (love my BT3100 saw!) this is my first post.

My wife and I are thinking of starting a small kitchen remodel. We would like to re-face our kitchen cabinets. Since I like to dabble in wood working I figured I could make new cabinet doors, drawer fronts, and new drawers. I was just wondering what type of wood/materials I should get to build the doors, drawers, etc.? We will be painting the cabinets so no need for super nice wood, I just don't have any idea what type of wood to buy for such a project.

I guess the question I should be asking is: can I do this cheaper than ordering new doors and drawer fronts? My time isn't all that valuable and I'll probably enjoy making them, but if it's not worth a little savings then I might change my mind.

Thanks!
Troy

EDIT: Forgot to mention that we will most likely be going with a shaker style door, so I was assuming solid wood frame, plywood center, correct? I'm just not sure what type of wood or plywood to buy. Something like the pic below. Thanks again.

[MikeMcCoy]

As long as you're painting the doors you can use a wood like poplar which is usually available at even the BORG and it machines nicely. I'm a bit different than some as I like poplar even when it's dyed.

[Tequila]

You can DEFINITELY make your own doors cheaper than ordering them. A table saw is all you need to make that style door. Once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to make all the doors you need in a weekend or two.

[BigguyZ]

I've heard of using MDF for painted cabinets. Cheap, flat, staight, and it machines well too.

[RayintheUK]

Have a look here for a similar (but more complex) type of door. These were made entirely of MDF - rails and stiles 19mm (3/4") with 6mm (1/4") panels. Obviously, no wood grain will show through, as there isn't any. However, if the paint finish would (or is intended to) obscure it totally anyway, then that's not important.

Ray.

[tryrrthg]

Thanks everyone!

I've used MDF on several speaker building projects. It is very easy to work with (except the weight). But it's edges don't take paint very well so I'd like to avoid it, at least for the rails and stiles.

If I used poplar for the rails and stiles should I use plywood for the center panel or would MDF be ok? If plywood what type should I go with?

Is poplar a good choice for the drawer boxes also?

Thanks again!

[siliconbauhaus]

If you seal the mdf it takes paint beautifully mate. Watered down wood glue does a decent job of sealing the ends. Maybe put a 1/8 roundover on them and paint it.

[RayintheUK]

I've used MDF on several speaker building projects. ... But it's edges don't take paint very well so I'd like to avoid it, at least for the rails and stiles.

Properly prepared, MDF takes paint as well as, if not better than, anything else. "Properly prepared" takes time and effort, but the results are worth it.

For slightly less preparation, use Medite (water-resistant MDF) for the rails and stiles. More expensive and requires really good router cutters (just like ordinary MDF does), but once you use it you'll never go back.

However, as you seem determined to use a mixture of natural and man-made products, to answer your question, it doesn't matter which you use as a panel, although the MDF will sand to a far better surface.

Ray.

[siliconbauhaus]

place here in the US that does the stuff

http://www.sierrapine.com/products/m...rd/default.asp

[JimD]

Troy,

As much as I like the looks of Ray's all MDF doors, I would not do it this way, especially for your first efforts. They will look good but MDF is not as strong as plywood or solid wood. I would make the outer frame of the door from poplar or even pine and use a MDF or plywood panel. If you can get MDF which is smooth on both sides for the panel, I would use that. If not, I would get 1/4 inch birch plywood. If you decide to use MDF for the frame, glue it to the panel. You should never do this with an all wood door due to the movement in the panel but you can do it with a MDF or plywood panel. With the panel glued to the frame, it will help to strengthen the door and make up a bit for the limitations of the MDF frame.

The corner joints will be a potential challenge for you. I typically use cope and stick cutters in my router table. Even though the resulting joint is only about 3/8 deep, I have made some pretty big solid oak doors this way that held up fine. If you have a router table, that would be a good way to go but it will put a moulded edge around the panel. If you do not want the moulded edge, a mortise and tenon would be best. Probably the easiest way to so this well would be with a plunge router and spiral cutting bit and make a loose tenon - a female joint in both pieces and then a slip fit tenon glued into both. If you do not have a plunge router, a spline joint - kind of a little tenon - would be a possibility or even pocket screws (on the back and filled in before paint application).

I am currently sitting in my recliner in my family room. In front of me are cabinets with painted doors made from the pine from the shipping crates some of our furniture was shipped to this house in and MDF panels. You need to use Kilz or shellac on softwood if it has knots (and it isn't a bad idea even if it has no knots) but it works fine. They have held up fine for 6 years so far and I am confident they will last a lot more. Rays all MDF probably would have been fine but I like working with solid wood more and I am more confident of it when I need to make joints (but I used MDF for a removable ceiling but that is a whole different story).

Jim