Bandsaw box cutting help

[MilDoc]

After 7 BS boxes I can get the outside cuts pretty smooth, requiring just a little touch-up with sandpaper. But the cutouts for the drawers keep coming out very rippled, to the point that they really can't be made smooth no matter what, without ruining the box.

I think I tend to stop and start too much on the inside cuts, trying to get the curves right, but I'm not sure.

Just finished gluing up the pieces for a new box for a Christmas present for LOML's best friend (female that is) and would sure like it to turn out better.

Any other possibilities or suggestions for better insude curves?

[cabinetman]

Paul

I'm only guessing, but you might have to go to a narrower blade that seeks less of a straight line.



YOU HAVEN'T FAILED, YOU JUST HAVEN'T FINISHED

[Brian in Dawson Creek]

I’ve taken the liberty of copying your photo and drawing some red lines on it to make explanation easier. In the photo you can see square or straight cuts along the red lines that should be shallow curves. I think you pointed out a problem yourself … never stop during a cut if it can be avoided; it’s too hard to pick up where you left off. Take a deep breath get comfortable and get prepared for the cut that you are about to do, and finish it all in one cut. Remember you are going to in front of the saw for a while. After cutting out one drawer take a break and prepared for the next cut.

Is the blade clean? After finishing just about every cut I unplug the saw and clean the blade with a tooth brush, by rotating the upper wheel … if a tooth brush won’t remove the entire gunk in the gullets I remove the blade and give it a good cleaning in Simple Green.

A good dark pattern or line on the box is easier to follow than a thin light line … I know it sound trivial but if you are in front of the saw for a period of time, light lines seem easier to stray from as your eyes may get tired. I tape a scanned full sized image to the blank making sure the cut lines are very dark. Good lighting is also a big help.

You can also sand the outside edges of your drawers more, as well as the face of the box. Take a dowel and attach self adhesive sandpaper to the dowel to sand the face of the drawers and the face of the box. If a round cut meets a straight cut you can smooth the area with a Popsicle stick with self adhesive sandpaper. You can sand like crazy on the outside facing areas of the box and drawers, round over the outside edges of the drawers and the edges of box that support the drawers. The places you can’t sand like crazy are the inside of the drawer cavity on the box and the out side of the drawers that affect the fit of the drawers. Go back and have a look at the book … she is not afraid of sanding too much. You can sand out many mistakes, especially where the fit of the drawers to the box is not involved.

You said and I quote: But the cutouts for the drawers keep coming out very rippled, to the point that they really can't be made smooth no matter what, without ruining the box.

In all the photos you supplied you are far from ruining a box … You’ll have to explain better how you ruined a box. Most inside cuts are tighter than outside cuts. Outside cuts are always easier as nothing has to fit … it’s a shape. Inside cut are usually tight and must match or fit something, they are a harder to cut and require a bit of patience … You are on the right track.

Just a few thoughts I hope might help, I don’t mean to come across as a ‘know it all’ as I’m still learning too you know. If I am any way unclear … just let me know.

Brian

[jonathan55]

[ATTACH]3405[/ATTACH]

Take a deep breath get comfortable and get prepared for the cut that you are about to do, and finish it all in one cut. Remember you are going to in front of the saw for a while. After cutting out one drawer take a break and prepared for the next cut.
Brian

Boy, this is the truth. I usually take a few practice cuts on scrap before cutting out drawers. This is especially important if I'm rushed, stressed or in a hurry. Ripples can happen when you get off course, the next ripple happens when you try to get back on track too fast. Your going to stray at times so don't try to correct quickly, just glide back on track.

Glue up an extra block or two so you don't have to stress out about getting it perfect in time the a holiday.

If you have to sand the drawers too much then do what she says in the book and use strips of the stick on fuzzy felt sheets from Rockler.

Just my 2 cents,
Jonathan

[cabinetman]

Paul

Plan B. Pour yourself a double Crown Royal and forget the box. No, just kidding. If the blade is narrow enough, I've noticed I have the tendency to do the same thing. If I'm pushing the stock a little too hard to cause some deflection to the blade, the movement won't allow a smooth transition between the cutting action and the turning action.

It's like driving your car. If you're watching the road too close to the front of the car, by the time the curves come up it takes a last minute jerky action to head into the curve. Either the car will be too far too the outside of the curve, or too close to the inside, which will push it out when into the curve.

A lot of that may be just paying attention. When cutting, I let the blade create a "feel" of direction with very little forward pushing, while looking ahead to see where the line goes, and guiding the turning action along with the forward action.

This may or not make sense, but after the Crown Royal, it's perfectly clear to me.



YOU HAVEN'T FAILED, YOU JUST HAVEN'T FINISHED

[Veramacor]

I have a scroll saw that will do 2 inch cutting depth. Just a quick question - is 2 inches enough depth for a decent bandsaw box? I can cut some nice curves and stop on a dime with my scroll saw, but Is two inches or less enough depth?

V

[MilDoc]

What I meant by "ripples" are the inside surfaces of the box where the drawers slide in. I guess I'm pushing a little too hard and stop-start.

[jonathan55]

What I meant by "ripples" are the inside surfaces of the box where the drawers slide in. I guess I'm pushing a little too hard and stop-start.

Yes, it's amazing how you can see every stop, start and wobble. There is some great advice here, including the Crown Royal option.

For more specific band saw box advice there is a band saw box group on Yahoo: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bandsawboxes/

Sign up and get on the mailing list (they get off topic sometimes.) The moderator has a band saw box book coming out in Janurary. Search Amazon for: The Ultimate Band Saw Box Book by Donna LaChance Menke

Or go to:
http://www.woodworks-by-donna.com


Don't get discouraged (and always glue up an extra blank or two!
Jonathan

[jonathan55]

And here's a little inspiration:

http://www.stevenmartinboxes.com/info.htm

[MilDoc]

The moderator has a band saw box book coming out in Janurary.

I've had that book on order for 4 months ... can't wait to get it!

[Brian in Dawson Creek]

I have a scroll saw that will do 2 inch cutting depth. Just a quick question - is 2 inches enough depth for a decent bandsaw box? I can cut some nice curves and stop on a dime with my scroll saw, but Is two inches or less enough depth?

V

I wouldn’t think so … The smallest one I made was four inches thick. That’s not saying it couldn’t be done … it just seems small to me.

Brian

[Brian in Dawson Creek]

Paul

Plan B. Pour yourself a double Crown Royal and forget the box. No, just kidding. If the blade is narrow enough, I've noticed I have the tendency to do the same thing. If I'm pushing the stock a little too hard to cause some deflection to the blade, the movement won't allow a smooth transition between the cutting action and the turning action.

It's like driving your car. If you're watching the road too close to the front of the car, by the time the curves come up it takes a last minute jerky action to head into the curve. Either the car will be too far too the outside of the curve, or too close to the inside, which will push it out when into the curve.

A lot of that may be just paying attention. When cutting, I let the blade create a "feel" of direction with very little forward pushing, while looking ahead to see where the line goes, and guiding the turning action along with the forward action.

This may or not make sense, but after the Crown Royal, it's perfectly clear to me.



YOU HAVEN'T FAILED, YOU JUST HAVEN'T FINISHED

Excellent post …that’s what I meant to say, why is it that sometimes your fingers can’t translate what the brain is thinking … and I didn’t have any Crown Royal.

Brian

[MilDoc]

Have to agree with Brian. Thanks again, cabinetman! Always a source of inspiration and advice, along with everyone else on BT3Central!

And

Merry Christmas, Happy and Prosperous New Year

to all here and to yours!

[jonathan55]

I've had that book on order for 4 months ... can't wait to get it!

She just put up an order form on her site if you want an autographed version. Amazon may be faster however.

Keep up the good work!

http://www.woodworks-by-donna.com/order_page_final.html