Jointing with hand held router

[niki]

Good day

I would like to share with you my method of jointing with hand held router.

I think that everything is covered on the pictures.

At the end, I added some pics of the “real one”

Sorry, I don't know why the first pic doesn't show...please click on the link and it will open.

Regards
niki

[JTimmons]

Very nicely done!

[radhak]

Niki,

I read your post(s) a couple of times before I could fully absorb the simplicity and yet effectiveness of your tutorial, and I can only say : FANTASTIC!!!

As a newcomer to this field, I am always on the lookout for simple approaches to any basic task, and am grateful for this, your 2nd tip. The first - cutting straight edges out of rough boards - was just as good. I have a couple of boards that would need jointing, and while they visually look straight, I can follow your steps and be absolutely sure.

A couple of questions :

a) this might be obvious, still - I guess I should use the TS first to get a straight edge, right?

b) you used 3 boards here, and alternately marked them 'U' and 'D'. So that also applies when there are more boards? ie, I should alternately mark the board 'face' as 'U', then 'D', then 'U', ...?

c) do I sand the resulting edges before gluing?

thanks a ton!

[niki]

Thank you so much JTimmons and Radhak

Radhak
a) Yes, you still have to straight the boards on the TS, I thing that it will be too much for the router to make the job. With the router you just give the final “shave” of 1/64”~1/32” for super nice glue line.

b) If you have 4 or more boards, just continue the pattern of “U” and “D”. I’m doing it just in case that the bit is not exactly 90* to the base.
That’s also the reason that I mark the side of the base that will be against the straight edge, to compensate for small deviations from 90*, I always use the same side of the base against the straight edge

c) No, don’t sand it. If you sand, you might round the sharp edges and it will be visible after gluing.

Regards
niki

[radhak]

Great explanation(s), niki. Thanks again.

[lcm1947]

Yes indeed thanks Niki for an outstanding tutorial. That is just amazing. Seems so simply once it's shown but boy how brilliant to have thought it up. The only part I don't get is why sand paper or anti-skid tape on the locator's? Why not just use them as is without the tape? Really appreciate you going to all that trouble to show this. Above and beyond what one would or could expect from a fellow forum member but greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[WoodButcher26]

Niki, you're a master at getting the point across simply and effectively. Great post.


Kim

[Stormbringer]

The only part I don't get is why sand paper or anti-skid tape on the locator's? Why not just use them as is without the tape?

Don't want to answer for niki, but until he responds, my guess would be to prevent the locators from "walking". Sometimes, depending on the material, even something clamped can slide a hair.

Just my $.02

Greg

[niki]

Thank you all for your warm compliments

Icm1947
Didn’t I tell you that it’s much more simple and easy than you think.

Greg is correct, I use the anti-skid tape on many jigs and fixtures to give me more friction and better grip so I can use spring clamps instead of screw clamps for something that is mounted temporary, like those locators and even on the push-shoe for the TS.
Some people are gluing sanding paper even on the fence of a cross-cut sled or sliding table so they can hold the work piece just with the hand while cutting.

Those tapes are sold as bath tab or shower anti-skid tapes (you just peel the paper and glue).
So, next time you go to the big box, send your wife (not yourself, you go directly to the tools department, as I do) to the bath/shower department and tell her to ask for them.

Thanks again
niki

[lcm1947]

Good guess Greg. You were right on. Thanks Niki and yes you did say it was simple. It just amazes me on what a human being can do when you set your mind to it.

[footprintsinconc]

jointing wood

Niki,

As you said, i looked up the thread "jointing with hand router" and am amazed.

Boy, you sure do make things look really easy. I love reading your comments and suggestion and love these picture tutorials of yours, which are extremely useful! I can only speak for myself, i tend to learn best when something is demonstrated to me, and those pictures were an excellent representation of the step by step procedure. Your help is greatly appreciated.

[niki]

Thank you Omar

My ability to express myself in English is limited and as I said to somebody “I’m adding some pictures otherwise you end-up making a table”.

I’m an amateur, and I make the jigs with the amateur in mind, easy construction, easy to find parts and hardware, minimum cost (save your money to buy better router), and accurate (or as I call it, idiot proof).

I present them step-by-step because they are aimed for newcomers and amateurs.

Those jigs took some time to think of, and went through few experiments and modifications.

It makes me very happy that they help newcomers and amateurs and shorten the way for them.

And as the say on the TV, “Don’t go away, more to come”.

Thank you
niki

[footprintsinconc]

jointing wood

niki,

last night i was trying to plan a table top, and was going to be using pieces that are from 2.5" to 4" wide. in this case, i cant clamp down a strip across the top of the piece and then router it. do you have any suggestions?

thanks

[niki]

Hi Omar

2-1/2” is a little bit “tight” (4" is ok), anyway have a look at my reply to Icm1947 in the “Getting started” forum, “How big of gap acceptable for glue ups” thread.

niki