What glue is best

[pcombs]

I am in the final throws of completing a countertop. I am edging it with red oak. I have used MDF as substrate, glued laminate using contact cement and now I'm wondering whether contact cement will suffice for the hardwood edging. I had a failure using wood glue - which is pretty dumb coming to think of it.

Any ideas?

[scorrpio]

Wood glue bonds on a molecular level, which requires good clmping pressure, distributed all along the edge. And MDF needs to be sealed with glue size so it does not absorb the glue. If this is a kitchen countertop, you'd need to use glue like Titebond III.

Contact cement... I think it should work too. Experiment. glue a small piece of edging to a small piece of MDF and see how well it holds.

Epoxy is another option I would consider.

[onedash]

gorilla glue.....

[pcombs]

I did use clamps on the wood glue. I think the failure was due to MDF absorbing most of the glue. I will check out TiteBond III and do the test with contact cement. The good thing with the latter is that onece you apply and let it dry for a few minutes, you can test it without clamping.

[cabinetman]

Titebond II should do the job if you follow a few steps. It "kicks" faster than Titebond III. Put a smooth coat, not heavy on the MDF, then put a smooth coat, but not heavy on the edging. Recoat the MDF if the glue has soaked in. Place edging on and clamp. Shoot pin nails if you can and don't care to have holes to fill. You should have a slight squeezout. Do not overtighten. When dry, remove clamps and celebrate. All Titebonds and aliphatic resin type glues require porus surfaces. If you "size" or seal an edge with glue first, you most likely will have an adhesion problem.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[cabinetman]

I should have added to my reply that while contact cement has its place in WW'ing, it will stick the wood to the edge, but allows for too much flexibility for leading edges, and no ability for positioning when glueing like with Titebond II, which is the better choice, IMO.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[JimD]

If you have access to a biscuit jointer, this is a good application. I put #20 biscuits into the edging and the particle board. Even if your edging does not meet your particle board real flat, you will get a good joint with the biscuits and the edging should stay put. With the biscuits, you should be able to get by with a few brads to hold things until the glue sets. I have counters in my family room done this way and they are holding up fine. I put marble on the surface which was installed after the edging so I could clamp it using temporary blocks screwed to the wood counter sub-top but otherwise it is what I am talking about. 3/4 oak held in place with biscuits and regular wood glue (I think it was Tite-bond II but III would work fine too and give you a bit more working time and water resistance).

Jim

[pcombs]

I don't think titebond on MDF and solid wood will work. I think I will go with contact cement.

[cabinetman]

We're not trying to talk you into or out of anything. All we can do is offer years of experience.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[pcombs]

I think I will reconsider. Biscuits and titebond 3 it will be.

Thanks guys for all the great suggestions.

[jdschulteis]

Titebond II should do the job if you follow a few steps. It "kicks" faster than Titebond III. Put a smooth coat, not heavy on the MDF, then put a smooth coat, but not heavy on the edging. Recoat the MDF if the glue has soaked in. Place edging on and clamp. Shoot pin nails if you can and don't care to have holes to fill. You should have a slight squeezout. Do not overtighten. When dry, remove clamps and celebrate. All Titebonds and aliphatic resin type glues require porus surfaces. If you "size" or seal an edge with glue first, you most likely will have an adhesion problem.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

I've just glued red oak edging to MDF for a desktop, using pretty much this technique (coated both sides with Titebond III, no "sizing" of the MDF, no pin nails, no biscuits). Seems to have worked fine, I can pick it up (2 layers of 3/4" MDF, it probably weighs 35 pounds) by the edging without any sign of the joint giving out.

I'd think if you really wanted to use contact cement you'd have to cut the oak a bit oversize and then trim it flush to the MDF; otherwise you'd have to position it perfectly on your first (and only) try.

[pcombs]

I did the countertop today with TiteBond III and biscuits and I must say this is the best solution. I think throwing in the biscuits is highly advantageous for maximum hold and also in aligining.