removing steel wool dust

[alamode]

After one coat of poly, and a session with the 000 steel wool, I have tiny
steel particles in every tiny nook and cranny of my project. Expecially vexing are the ones along seams between moldings.

What is the preferred method for getting rid of these before the next coat of poly?

I have tried wiping with a dry cloth, scraping with a razor blade, small screwdriver, plastic knife, and compressed air. I even went over the seams with a magnet and got some of the bits out. There are always more! Is there a trick?

Thanks
Al

[MilDoc]

First, use better steel wool. Liberon (on sale now at Woodcraft) solved most of those problems for me. Very little "dust."

If it's mainly stuck in the seams, I'd use a stronger magnet, maybe combined with air. but too high an air velocity can drive the slivers in deeper. Can't help much more.

[JR]

Tack cloth?

[MilDoc]

I've trieed tack cloth. Works well if on a flat surface, not if stuck in a seam.

[gerti]

Shop Vac?

Also Alan Lacer (renowned turner) mentioned in a finishing session that he completely did away with steel wool partly due to the steel dust and partly due to security concerns (steel wool is a great fire starter). He uses a synthetic steel wool like product (if I remember correctly originating from Europe). He said it is not easy to find but well worth the investment.

[SARGE..g-47]

Many moons ago I used steel wool on poly, but had the same problem with the fine particles separating and getting everywhere including my lungs. If you do use it, Mildoc made an important comment. Use high quality wool as it will stay intact far better than the cheaper grades and deliver finer results.

But.. I will follow in the shadow Gerti mentioned as I swithched to simple old scotch-brite pads. I install the green one on the base of a plaster's sanding block (the one with the big arched handle) for the first filler coat. Appropriate pressure applied for that coat. I use the blue on the second covering coat with same appropriate pressure (take out the nibs and leave it slightly hazy).

The final finish coat gets high grit wet sanding paper with mineral spirits as the lubricant. Be sure to allow to fully dry between coats and especially the last final coat should be allowed to cure properly. Then I hand buff her out to the lustre I'm trying to achieve and call it quits.

Next...... ha.. ha...

[jabe]

Thats the main reason not to use steel wool between coats, use 220 or finer grit sandpaper. All you want to do between coats is to just give it a fast light scuff/sanding so the next coat has something to bond too. A good quality steel wool for the final polishing is OK but it still might inbed some slivers in the finish and you might get rust spots on your project later on. Use a furniture rubbing compound or abrasive flours like pumice and polish with rottenstone with mineral oil as the lubricant. I've also used 2500 grit wet/dry sandpaper on a RO sander with mineral oil instead of the abrasive flours on larger flat surface and polish with tree wax. It'll give a nice hand rubbed polish look. Use tree wax to bring out the luster of the finish.

[alamode]

Thanks for the good advice! For now I am just using a liberal dose of elbow grease mixed equal parts with patience. The idea of dropping steel wool altogether is appealing, that seems to be the best solution from now on.
Live and learn...

[Doug Jones]

I use 0000 steel wool and then use my shop vac with a bristle brush attachment. When I vacuum the dust I know where its going, up the tube. When you blow the dust with air,,,, well what goes up must come down and where it comes down to is probably right back onto your project.

[cobob]

Probably not practical ... but... If it will fit in the tube on an MRI at a hospital...that magnet will remove that dust...it wll also remove any nails.

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Shop vac would work, as would compressed air.

MilDoc, since we both share such an intense love of General Finishes products, I'll take the Liberon suggestion to heart.

I get a good bit of steel dust as well when I use the real stuff. Frequently I use synthetic steel wool with no residue. I remove dust with air compressor and dry cloth.