My latest dumb mistake

[SwingKing]

I was working on the last stages of the cabinet doors for my bookshelf project. All I had left to do was drill the holes for the euro hinges and mount the doors. I did the first set (of 3) and everything was going fine. I grab the next door and started drilling. I was just finished when I realized to my horror that I had just drilled the holes in the FRONT of the door!

After cursing for five minutes and throwing a few things, I started thinking about how to fix the problem. The panels are cherry ply, with only one side having a decent grain pattern, so I can't just flip it. Apart from rebuilding the entire door, the only other option I see is to cut out the panel out, flip it over, and glue in some strips to hold the panel in. The question is: how to cut out the panel? I'm thinking I can use the router mounted in my BT3100 to route out most of it and the use a chisel on the rest.

Anyone have any other ideas or suggestions on cleaning up this mess? Right now, I just a bit disgusted with myself and could use a second opinion.

-- Ken

[Ken Massingale]

Ken, assuming you used polyvinyl acetate (yellow) glue, use a sponge to soak the joints. Try to stay on the glue joints so as to not soak too much of the stock. It will take several treatments but soon you will be able to wiggle the joints loose. Yes, this is based on experience. :-(
HTH
k

[Popeye]

Relax, I think we all have earned that T-shirt. I know how you feel. How is the rest of the door constructed? Cope and stick (rail and stile bit), M&T rail and stiles? If it's the latter and there is no fancy inside edge on the rails and stiles I'd carefully set up the router with a straight bit and cut most of the front inside edge down to the point as close as you dare to the panel. Then cut the rest out with a utility knife. Flip the panel and secure it in place with wood strips around the (now inside) of the door. The way you would install a glass panel in a door..... If it's the former I don't see anyway but to build a new door. Pics would help if I'm all wet. Good luck, Pat

[SwingKing]

Thanks guys for the suggestions and the moral support. FYI, there are a couple pictures of the doors over in this thread: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=22553.

Ken M: The doors are already finished, with dye, gel stain, and shellac. Would your soaking trick work once they've been finished? I'm assuming I'd need to use a utility knife along the joint lines to help the water penetrate.

Pat: The door frame is build with open M-T joints and I didn't do any fancy profiles on either the inside or outside edges, so I think your suggestion would work. I'm not happy about flipping the door because the finish/grain on the back of the frame isn't as good, but this project has been going on a looooong time and I'm ready for it to be finished.

-- Ken S.

[cabinetman]

If you can work on one stile, so it will pull away from the rails, that will be easier than trying to get the rail out. Get one out and the panel should slide out. In addition to working water in the joint, try a heat gun, but don't burn it. It may soften and expand it enough to separate.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[Popeye]

I'm sure you'll work it out Ken. BTW, I'm sorry I somehow missed the thread with the pictures. Those are beautiful doors, can't wait to see the finished cabinets. Pat

[scorrpio]

I suppose those are the large 35mm holes for the hinge cups, right?

Here is an idea:
1. Set TS blade height exactly the stile width

2. Put a sacrificial fence on the rip fence, and move it right up to the blade. If this is full-kerf blade, bury it about 1/32" in the fence.

3. Run the door on its edge along the fence, milling about 3/32" off the front of the stile along its entire length.

4. Now, using either a bandsaw or TS, rip a 1/8" thick slice off a piece of stile stock. Would be good if it is slightly wider and longer than your stile.

5. Glue this thin piece on the stile. Sand/plane flush with rest of door, apply finish.

[Ken Massingale]

Thanks guys for the suggestions and the moral support. FYI, there are a couple pictures of the doors over in this thread: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=22553.

Ken M: The doors are already finished, with dye, gel stain, and shellac. Would your soaking trick work once they've been finished? I'm assuming I'd need to use a utility knife along the joint lines to help the water penetrate.

Pat: The door frame is build with open M-T joints and I didn't do any fancy profiles on either the inside or outside edges, so I think your suggestion would work. I'm not happy about flipping the door because the finish/grain on the back of the frame isn't as good, but this project has been going on a looooong time and I'm ready for it to be finished.

-- Ken S.

Probably not, didn't know they are finished. I believe I'd go with Pat's suggestion.

[Wood_workur]

Turn you ugly mistake into a beatiful inlay oppertunity.

[gerti]

Turn you ugly mistake into a beatiful inlay oppertunity.

My thoughts exactly! Big round buttons in a contrasting wood, maybe turned on your new lathe...

[cobob]

Since it will look great, and having built one the next one will go much quicker, build onther one with two of the same sided doors ... at the risk of grooving that annoying miss-step into a habit as I have done.