Jointer Base Progress

[Pappy]

Amidst trying to work on my truck (awaiting parts) and doing some laundry I got some shop time in today. Got a good start on the base for the 8" Rockwell jointer.



The cabinet is 3/4" Maple/Birch ply with the ends set out at 15 degrees to provide more support over the length of the jointer. The top has a piece of 1/2" Baltic Birch added to the inside that is beveled on the ends to 'capture' the top to the sides. The sides have a rabbet along the edges that set in dadoes cut in the sides. The cabinet will be mounted to a modified Wood magazine design mobile base on 2" swivel casters and I am going to use the leveling legs that came with my Grizzly G0555.

Next step is to design the DC chute and an access panel/door for the motor and belt (and the motor mount). Actually had a plan drawn up to this point, including the mobile base. The rest is design as I build it.

[JR]

Very nice, Don. I like the 15degree angle on the ends. Looks like it will be very stable.

JR

[Ken Massingale]

Looking good, Pap. And stout!
k

[Pappy]

The next stage is done. Spent most of my day off Tuesday working on a mount bracket for the motor. most of the commercial stands have the motor sitting on a plate that adjusts vertically to tension the belt. I am going to 'hang' the motor on a solid bracket/mount so the motor moves. The base plate on the motor is slotted to allow about 2" travel.



The bracket is 1 1/4 x1/8 angle and will be bolted to a 3/4 plywood bottom (4 bolts on each side) that will be set in dados. The blue tape is the outline of the chip extraction chute that will be made from 1/2" BB. The motor pulley will protrude thru a hole in the back of the base and that will be covered with a safety guard/access door.

OK, guys, see anything wrong with the idea?

[cgallery]

How will you adjust belt tension?

[Popeye]

looking good Pap. Pat

[Pappy]

How will you adjust belt tension?

The base on the motor is slotted so it will move up and down about 2". In the photo it is set near the top of it's travel.

[Ken Massingale]

Looks great to me Pappy.
k

[cgallery]

The base on the motor is slotted so it will move up and down about 2". In the photo it is set near the top of it's travel.

The method I've seen for mounting motors a number of times is to mount the motor to a piece of plywood, then mount the plywood to the base using a couple of hinges. The motor provides enough weight to tension the belt, and it is easy as pie to remove/replace the belt if ever need be. Your motor bracket is nice, but I wonder how much of a pain it is going to be to properly tension it once the thing is mounted in the cabinet.

Or don't you have to? Perhaps your slotted bracket doesn't require loosening things but freely slides up and down?

[Pappy]

Got a little done tonight. Mostly cyphering....Got the holes located for the bracket bolts and the motor/pulley opening. Also decided to mount the 'floor' on angle iron supports in case the need arises to get inside the cabinet.

I've seen the hingge set up, too. As heavy as the motor is, I don't want to depend solely on gracity for the belt tension. There's no doubt it will be tight getting to the bolts and may even require an access door on the end opposite the DC fitting. Also not something you have to do very often.

[Thom2]

I've seen the hingge set up, too. As heavy as the motor is, I don't want to depend solely on gracity for the belt tension.

Nothing a good ole universal clutch spring can't cure .... while you're pickin' up the parts for your truck ....

Lookin' good Pap, I really like the design of the cabinet, but I think I'm with cgallery on the motor mounting idea.