what kind of Polyurethane do you use for finishing

[xli1]

I am about to finish my kitchen cabinet (cherry), I just want to know what kind of Polyurethane you use for finishing? There are normal and fast-drying; gloss, semi-gloss and satin; wipe on or brush on. I read from somewhere that it is better to dilute it before use to get better results, is that true? Thanks for any advices!

Xu

[Popeye]

I prefer water based poly and full strength. Gloss, semi-gloss satin is up to you. I like gloss myself but that's just personal preference. Pat

[Doug Jones]

My own personal non-expert way is to use the standard shelf bought Minwax Poly. Depending on the piece whether I get satin or gloss. I always mix it 75% poly and 25% napatha. I always rag it on instead of brush.

[cabinetman]

My vote goes along with Popeye. I'm using water base more and more, both in brush on situations and spraying. Faster drying, no blushing, easier cleanup.



"I'M NEVER WRONG - BUT I'M NOT ALWAYS RIGHT"

[atgcpaul]

I am about to finish my kitchen cabinet (cherry), I just want to know what kind of Polyurethane you use for finishing? There are normal and fast-drying; gloss, semi-gloss and satin; wipe on or brush on. I read from somewhere that it is better to dilute it before use to get better results, is that true? Thanks for any advices!

Xu

Here's another vote for spray-on water-based poly. I used semi-gloss on my
kitchen cabs and was very pleased. Low odor, quick dry time, and easy to
apply with a $99 HVLP turbine system.

Paul

[JimD]

I have used a lot (gallons) of Minwax water based poly. I still like it and will use it. I have brushed it, rolled it, and sprayed it. The last several pieces I made were finished with minwax wipe on poly. I bought several pints then started making my own by diluting Minwax gloss poly about 1/3 with mineral spirits. It takes more coats but is very easy to apply. It also emphasizes grain more than water based poly IMHO.

I would try water based poly on a scrap of cherry and see if you like it. You could also try a little oil based or wipe-on ploy - they will look the same. Another option is to put a coat of linseed oil on first to enhance grain. If you let it dry throughly (at least a week) you can put either poly over it.

Cherry is going to darken with age. If you want to slow that, you could try using an outdoor finish with a UV inhibiter - the darkening is due to exposure to sunlight.

I normally use gloss. Satin is gloss with flattening agents added. You have to stir it regularly or the settling agents settle out and you are using gloss. You can go over gloss with fine steel wool to get a lower sheen.

Jim

[rickd]

I use Minwax Poly and use both gloss and satin. I almost always use a brush. For the wipe-on poly - I, of course, use a rag.

[gerti]

I am not sure if I like Poly on cherry, especially not water-based. If I were to use Poly on cherry I would make it a wipe on variety in very thin coats, eg wipe on and then wipe off. On smaller cherry pieces I have used the Rockler Gel Poly and really liked it though. But that is all a matter of taste.

[drumpriest]

Water based "poly" isn't polyurethane. It is in fact Polyacrylic, which is not the same thing. I use it, and it works well, but it's not as tough as urethane. Mostly I use Arm-R-Seal, which is a blend of tung oil, linseed oil and urethane.

Beyond topcoat, what are you going to do to the cherry? Is it plywood or solid? Are you thinking of staining cherry? If so, you might want a top coat with a UV blocker, as Cherry darkens with age to the color that people think of as Cherry. If you pigment it, it will still darken.

[xli1]

Water based "poly" isn't polyurethane. It is in fact Polyacrylic, which is not the same thing. I use it, and it works well, but it's not as tough as urethane. Mostly I use Arm-R-Seal, which is a blend of tung oil, linseed oil and urethane.

Beyond topcoat, what are you going to do to the cherry? Is it plywood or solid? Are you thinking of staining cherry? If so, you might want a top coat with a UV blocker, as Cherry darkens with age to the color that people think of as Cherry. If you pigment it, it will still darken.

Thanks for the tips. It is solid cherry on the cabinet door and face frame. I am not going to stain it and let it darken with age. What will happen if I don't put on a coat of UV blocker? It will just darken faster, right?

[drumpriest]

In theory a UV blocker will prevent it from darkening so long as the finish is in good shape. If you clear coat with Arm-R-Seal, for instance, it will darken with age as cherry should. You'd be amazed at the number of new woodworkers who stain cherry. They just arn't aware of the fact that "cherry finish" in a furniture store usually means either birch or maple stained to look similar to 100 year old cherry.

Polyacrylic is nice, but doesn't give you the immediate darkening of the wood that a wipe on poly or Arm-R-Seal would give you.