Workbench Top Finish?

[IBBugsy]

I'm building a mobile workbench and it is topped with birch plywood. I've heard it would be helpful to treat the top so spilled glue will not stick. I have some polyurethane laying around and figured that would be a good option.

Thoughts??

[SARGE..g-47]

I normally do tops on the main work-bench with Watco or Water-lox as it's easy to maintain and remove when I get ready to true the top with a handplane every so often. Easy to re-apply.

But assembly tables that get the glue and stain get a couple of caots of poly. If you're using birch ply that can be just removed at some point and replaced (when I use that type top, I design to make them replaceable), the poly you suggested is where I would go with it. Brush it on or cut it with mineral spirits and make your own wipe-on.

Regards...

[WayneJ]

Another option would be to put fiber board on topIt comes in different thicknessform 1/8 to 1/4.Put it down with dubble sided tape. Replace it when it gets messed up. Its not very expensive.

[Tom Miller]

Yep, two or three coats of poly, and then keep it waxed regularly (paste wax or similar, no silicone). Glue will pop right off.

Regards,
Tom

[IBBugsy]

Thanks!!

I thought about having a sacrificial 1/4" of MDF or something on top but decided against it. I could add it later if experience warrents.

[gimpy]

I put a 1/8 inch hardboard top on mine. If you do decide to do this, I would go with the 1/4 inch as mine, even with double sided tape, still tries to curl up around the edges. I'm thinking 1/4 inch might be better at not doing this.

Frank

[rickd]

Yep, two or three coats of poly, and then keep it waxed regularly (paste wax or similar, no silicone). Glue will pop right off.

Regards,
Tom

I coat my bench with poly and then when it gets a bit dull, I usually just sand it a bit and apply more poly! Seems to workout o.k.

[LinuxRandal]

I normally do tops on the main work-bench with Watco or Water-lox as it's easy to maintain and remove when I get ready to true the top with a handplane every so often. Easy to re-apply.

But assembly tables that get the glue and stain get a couple of caots of poly. If you're using birch ply that can be just removed at some point and replaced (when I use that type top, I design to make them replaceable), the poly you suggested is where I would go with it. Brush it on or cut it with mineral spirits and make your own wipe-on.

Regards...

This left me wondering, how often does one check their benchs?


As for the tops, I like poly/wax, but my father throws those old blue tarps over his bench, if he thinks something is going to be messy. He keeps the beatup ones from the pickup just for that. Otherwise, for small, he just keeps a damp rag nearby.

[SARGE..g-47]

I think it depends on what type work you do most often on your work-bench, LR. I do a lot of hand-planing which requires a very flat top with good stops. Rarely would you see over 10" stock with the average between 6"-8" unless you have glued up panels that developed creep in the glue lines that needs to come out, etc.

I will take a "winding stick" to at least the outer portions of the table to check for flat from the outer edge toward center for about 12". When hand planing you need flat to achieve flat. The stock rocking around on the table top is not conducive to achieving that.

If seasonal changes cause the center to move up or down (and it will), that is not as critical as the outer perimeter the stock lies on to be planed. If the whole top gets radically out of whack, it will see me discipline it with my fore plane and belt sander. ha.. ha...

I usually build assembly tables with a torsion box set up covered with MDF or baltic ply. Flat is also required for glueing and assembly.The assembly table won't see the brute force exerted to the base when doing heavy hand planing, so the top does not have to have thickness or brute strengh of an "aircraft carrier" deck.

If I get in a pinch and have both my assembly tables (regular height and lowboy) tied up and still need room to glue, I will throw a canvas painters tarp over the main work-bench to protect from glue glob and put it to work. After all... it is a work bench and designed for just that regardless of what duties it gets assigned. :>)

If you have only room for one bench (been there and done that.. fond memories of days gone by), I would use the canvas tarp, a piece of hardboard or 1/2" MDF on top when glueing on the table.

Regards...

[ElRay]

I know the thread's a bit old, but I have given-up looking for a semi-recent article on work bench finishes. The best one they found to be was paraffin melted in (IIRC) mineral spirits. It was the easiest to fix and the best at repelling glue and finish drop. Carnuba wax was harder, but it was tougher to melt and (IIRC) the solvent released more noxious fumes when heated.