I'm gonna use LVL to make a workbench

[cgallery]

I would like to build a new workbench and have been examining materials for the base. Dimensional lumber is too unstable. Maple or oak or other hardwood is kinda expensive. Menards sells 12' lengths of 9-1/2" wide LVL for $30. Two pieces should be more than enough to make a base sorta like this (but on steroids):

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5401

Any tips? I use a WWII blade but figured I'd purchase a thin-kerf rip blade from Freud for ripping the pieces down. Has anyone ripped LVL (1-3/4" thick) on their BT3K? Does it cut okay?

I am under the impression that LVL is pretty dimensionally stable and also very strong and somewhat heavy. Which sounds idea for a workbench. I don't need it to be pretty (although I will do my best). Just solid.

[hermit]

I don't know what LVL is, but I can tell you dimensional lumber will work for your base. Thats what i used. Yes Maple or Oak would be better, but they do get expensive. What I did was go and pick out some good 2x12s and 2x10s. Tighter growth rings = better. Then I ripped the size I needed from the edges, and discard the center area. The effect is you end up using quarter-sawn lumber. The growth rings are perpendicular to the face. Joint all edges and get everything square, and make sure you apply a finish to seal it

Todd

[cgallery]

I don't know what LVL is, but I can tell you dimensional lumber will work for your base. Thats what i used. Yes Maple or Oak would be better, but they do get expensive. What I did was go and pick out some good 2x12s and 2x10s. Tighter growth rings = better. Then I ripped the size I needed from the edges, and discard the center area. The effect is you end up using quarter-sawn lumber. The growth rings are perpendicular to the face. Joint all edges and get everything square, and make sure you apply a finish to seal it

Todd

LVL = Laminated Veneer Lumber. Kinda like plywood but the grain is running in the same (long) direction rather than alternating like plywood. Heavy, strong, and stable. It is an "engineered" lumber, typically used in construction. Also pretty cheap. About twice the price of dimensional lumber, about 1/2 to 1/4 the cost of hardwood. And no waste. Hopefully. I found some people over at the Fine Woodworking site (their "Knots" discussion group) that have used LVL for benches and they have had very good luck.

[eezlock]

Lvl....

I don't know anything about LVL. Dimensional straight lumber from a good lumber yard can be made into one of the toughest work benches that you could ever build. A word of advice here...if you use dimensional lumber
plan it out, make good straight cuts and fasten legs, stretchers, cross braces
etc.together with 1/2" or larger hexhead bolts, nuts and washers all thru bolted and locked down tight....you won't regret it in the long run! Be sure and countersink the bolt/ nuts it makes a better looking ,more stable joint
when assembled.

As for a bench top...don't know what type you are thinking about...but
consider this, a good solid core, smooth sided door from a lumber yard
( maybe a second hand one from Habitat Restore ) or some other recycle
type place for a few bucks make one heck of a good work top for the bench.
That is what I have on mine ( I paid $10.00 at Habitat store for it).
The good thing is, it is cheap...if you don't like it in a couple of years
you won't be out too much money and it can easily be change to what ever type you would want. I drilled dog holes in line with the vise I installed
and it makes the top even more versatile.
Sorry, for the long post...but thought I would pass along some time learned experience and a cheaper alternative to the expensive benches.
eezlock

[cgallery]

Thanks guys. This is what I've done so far.

About three weeks ago I visted a local lumber yard and purchased some fir 2x4's and 2x8's to make my bench. I've used dimensional before to produce a euro-style bench, using bolts and giant wing-nuts as a cross-dowel (I even had that idea published in the tips sections of a woodworking magazine and got approx $150!). Those benches are gone, lost during a move.

While I've been letting the lumber acclimate to my basement, I've watched the 2x8's twist (took two weeks). Badly enough that I don't want to use them. At least for a bench. I'll use them for something else.

I figured I could use the 2x4's for the sides and purchase something else to use for the stretchers. I even considered using PJI joists (these are the wooden I-joists you see in new construction--they'd be strong and I could easily disguise them).

Then, while looking at the Georgia-Pacific web site, I discovered LVL. Laminated Veneer Lumber. I've seen the stuff used for headers for garage doors and the like. You can see some info here:

http://www.pacificwoodlaminates.com/...d_wood/lvl.php

I purchased two 9-1/2 x 12' long pieces for approx. $70 for the pair. Enough to make 1.25 benches ;-).

I brought 'em home yesterday and experimented with cutting the stuff. It cuts just like dimensional lumber. It is PERFECTLY straight. No twists, warps, cups, or anything. It is extremely strong. I am unable to deflect a 1-3/4 x 3-1/2 x 36" long piece of it that I cut. I centered it on a 2x4 on the floor and put all my weight (230-pounds) on it and got no detectable bounce.

The only down-side, as I can see, is that the material I purchased at Menards uses a dark glue on the individual plys and the squeeze-out is kinda ugly. I had already planned on painting the base of the bench, though, so I don't really care. I have a particular affinity for Inca woodworking tools so I plan on using an Inca paint scheme (two-tone of teal green and gray).

I believe there are appearance-grade LVL products that cost a little more (maybe 25%).

Anyhow... I'm totally pumped. Twice before I've tried recreating my euro-bench magic using dimensional lumber but I've always had such a hard time finding sticks of wood that didn't twist like mad as they sat in my house. Finally, a solution!

Now I just have to get a decent rip blade. My WWII blade isn't optimum for cutting this stuff. Fewer teeth w/ larger gullets are required.

Thanks!
Phil

[SARGE..g-47]

I see dimentional lumber as very stable and a different view if you handle it properly. Nothing wrong with using the long grain ply as you suggested, but you could get away with less expense with dimentional.

This base was made from ripped douglas fir beams from an old torn down civil war warehouse here in Atlanta. Glued them back to dimention and the rest is done with pinned through tenons, dowels, lap and saddle joints and glue. I added my "whale-back" under-neath for additional strenght. The whale-back also discourages top sag as it divides the top into two distinct elements. The top floats on four bullet shaped dowels on that solid base. No bolts, nuts, screws or lags necessary on this bench.

The way it was designed, each component re-inforces another so it will not move even before the top is applied. Eight guys using opposing force couldn't budge it. The top installed is the final lock down.

I have made quite a few benches over the course of time. Whatever you use for the base, design it well to with-stand movement from every direction including opposing forces that could pop up. Eliminate the weak links before they happen. IMO, material price isn't so much an issue as design strenght and solid jointery with whatever material you use.

Regards...

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This base was made from ripped douglas fir beams from an old torn down civil war warehouse here in Atlanta.

That is a fine looking bench, Sarge. I didn't have good luck finding doug fir to use for the base. I purchased some hem fir, which I discovered is nothing like doug fir and that is why I decided to go w/ the LVL.

As I was building my base I discovered that my drill press table was never accuarately aligned and was tilted by several degress. My skills are still such that I think I want to use the least expensive materials possible. I'll leave the nice stuff for later when my skills have hopefully improved a little and I've got all the machines humming.