Poly on Workbench Top

[ssmith1627]

Ok, after 5 months, I'm done with this workbench. I've already put a few coats of poly on the top (as well as the rest) but was wondering what the usual number is.........how many coats are required to protect the top ?

http://ssmith1627.myphotoalbum.com/v...d=152_5211_IMG

http://ssmith1627.myphotoalbum.com/v...d=152_5209_IMG

This is my first big project so I'm pretty happy with the results. I did use oak boards for the drawer false fronts even though it called for oak plywood. They look good but it was really a mistake because now there's the shading difference between the oak plywood cabinet doors and the three drawer fronts in the middle. Sigh.

Thanks for any feedback.

Steve

[WayneJ]

Looks fine to me, wish it was in my shop. I like the top, nice an solid.
Wayne

[charliex]

Looks good to me. The main bench requirements are solid, stable and don't move when planning. Everything else is just flash. Caaution! There is what is known as "bench paranoia" The signs a easy to identify. If you start to worry about dents / scratches / nicks / glue / stains etc. you may be suffering from it. You could move it into the living room but the LOYL might hit it with the vac or the childern might use their toys on it.. DAMHIKT! I did get over it. I mean you willl get over it. Well somewhat over it. There is a little apprehension when ever I see a flaw in mine but it's getting better. Sometimes I scratch it and think (&@**# clutz). But I know it just adds character to a well used bench.
Like I said "Nice looking bench" use and enjoy thats why you built it.
Chas.

[JR]

It looks nice, Steve. That is one solid top!

I hope you can get up enough nerve to beat some project into submission - which is, of course, why one needs a solid workbench in the first place!

JR

[gerti]

I'd take it in a heartbeat... Nice work!

[Popeye]

Much too nice for the shop. Better put it into the family room. Pat

[ssmith1627]

Ok, ok. Enough harassment. haha And it is funny how you feel like putting some kind of big grill cover over it when it's not in use. That new car kinda thing. Ya can't eat on it for the first 3 months. lol

I have 4 coats of poly on the top now. Should it get to a point where you can no longer feel the grain of the wood ? Or is that just not necessary for a workbench ? This is my first time using poly so would appreciate any feedback there.

Also, what do you use on the final coat ? A very fine grit sandpaper ? Or just a buffer ? I've been using 220 grit to sand it a bit between each coat. But don't think that's appropriate for the final coat.

Thanks for the nice comments guys. It's still not worthy of the finished project forum.....haha. And I have actually used it.....I used it to build the drawers for the workbench itself......to build the mobile base for my BT...and to make a cutting board ! That's something, right ?

Steve

[Deadhead]

Very nice looking bench!

I would use 0000 steel wool before the final coat, wipe off the steel wool dust, then some thinned down poly (i.e. homemade wipe-on poly). But I still consider myself a noob, so someone may have a better suggestion.

[Tom Miller]

I would use 0000 steel wool before the final coat, wipe off the steel wool dust, then some thinned down poly (i.e. homemade wipe-on poly). But I still consider myself a noob, so someone may have a better suggestion.

Yep, "quad naught" steel wool before and/or after the last coat, followed by paste wax. With a finish like that, glue squeeze out pops right off.

I have a couple different sized pieces of 1/4" hardboard that I put down if I'm going to be doing anything overly aggressive, or finish-ruining, on my bench. A little strip of hardwood on the bottom front edge (think "bench hook") keeps them in place really well. I think one is ~18" square, and the other is 24" square.

Looks great, BTW!

Regards,
Tom

[SARGE..g-47]

Tom nailed it about using hard-baord on top if you're using it for an assembly talbe also. And I wouldn't get carried away with too many coats of poly. 3 should have sealed it and all else is over-kill. I finish between coats with wet 220 and a little mineral spirits.

You should remember that the top is wood. Regardless of how well sealed it's going to contract and expand. That means to true it (re-flatten it) down the road, the poly comes off when you sand, plane, etc. I simply finish work-benches with several applications of Watco and Buthcer's wax for that reason. Just grab the hand-plane and you got her re-trued without much effort.

That bench you built does double as an air-craft carrier in extreme National emergencies, doesn't it? :>)

Very nice work and your pride should run over with your accomplishment!

Gotta go to work :<).. at least it's restoring muscle cars :>) ha.. ha...

SARGE..

[mater]

That is nice. Maybe one day I will build me something that nice for my shop.

[bigstick509]

Vn

[ssmith1627]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the comments -- except for the aircraft carrier one ! haha

I think Sarge's comments made a lot of sense as well -- if it's going to have to be reflattened, sanded and poly reapplied somewhere down the road, don't bury it in poly now. So I'm done with it. Went over it last night with some very fine steel wool and that's that.

So back to finishing up the base for my BT. Want to get a back on it and some basic doors on the front to keep the dust out of the cabinets. Hope to finish that this weekend.

Steve

[SARGE..g-47]

If you haven't worked with a lot of poly Steve, the biggest mistake I have seen made (that includes me) over the years is not allowing it to dry properly between coats. The dry time depends if you are brushing with un-cut poly or have added thinner to make it wiping poly (don't buy the expensive wiping poly in the can IMO, all they do is thin it with M spirits and charge more :>)..). Wait till there is no tack from your finger-tip. Then I wait a bit longer to let it cure.

Each coat serves a purpose. The first fills pores. The second lays a base. The 3rd fills anything that didn't get filled with the base. Sanding in between just levels all and takes the nibs out, Once you have a solid coat, additional coats are attempting to add layers to an already smooth and sealed surface. You get it too thick and it will have a tendency to crack the top layers down the road in my experience with it and on furniture it will look kike thick plastic.

Go get that base done and BTW, my best friend is a Delta Airlines pilot and flys Naval Reserve. I have asked him to pass the "pooper" about your "ELT" (emergency landing table).. He requested for you to be sure you install a tail-hook cable at one end and put lights down the lenght of each side. Remember that the military operates 24/7. he.......

Regards... :>)

SARGE..

[ssmith1627]

That's very useful information. I really do appreciate that. Basic stuff but I do not know it -- this is absolutely my first time using poly. I played around with several scrap pieces first because I was horrified of just putting that right on the bench top not knowing what the results would be.

And you're right -- now that that last coat has had 48 hours, it's no longer tacky at all. I was sanding with 220 between coats but was DEFINITELY not allowing long enough between each one. I'll keep all of that in mind for the future. This one will be just fine because it's a workbench. But I appreciate the advice.

Don't even get me started talking about airplanes. We'll have to move that to another forum. Makes me sick to think about it but you're talking to someone who until not long ago had the cockpit section of a 747, the Pan Am Clipper Sea Serpent. hehe But I've rambled enough here already without going off on THAT tangent.

Thanks again everyone.

Steve