how tight is 1/64"

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  • Wood_workur
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2005
    • 1914
    • Ohio
    • Ryobi bt3100-1

    #1

    how tight is 1/64"

    If I am framing an interior wall, I know that If I tried to raise it, it woldn't fit properly, because the diagonal is longer than the height. But according to my calculations, on a 6'8" wall, that difference would be 1/64". is that something that I could easily overcome with a big hammer, or should I make the wall a loose fit.
    Alex
  • Tequila
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2004
    • 684
    • King of Prussia, PA, USA.

    #2
    That's what shims are for.
    -Joe

    Comment

    • JR
      The Full Monte
      • Feb 2004
      • 5636
      • Eugene, OR
      • BT3000

      #3
      Originally posted by Tequila
      That's what shims are for.
      Yep. Caulk, too.
      JR

      Comment

      • sleddogg
        Forum Newbie
        • Feb 2006
        • 69
        • Reedsburg, WI
        • Ryobi BT3100 Italian blade

        #4
        think again

        Actually according to the website below it's more like a 13th of an inch, but I still have a hammer that could handle that. I'd sooner use shims or stick build though.


        http://www.1728.com/pythgorn.htm

        Comment

        • leehljp
          The Full Monte
          • Dec 2002
          • 8772
          • Tunica, MS
          • BT3000/3100

          #5
          In my experiences, you could make it fit with the right hammer. However, even that little bit of binding, it _could_ cause just enough pressure to throw something else out of whack, often noticeably to a discerning eye.

          If sheet rock is used over this, with seasonal changes, you will probably notice the seams a lot quicker. Generally it is better to have it a little loose and shimmed rather than too tight of a fit, IMHO.
          Hank Lee

          Experience is what you get when you don't get what you wanted!

          Comment

          • newbie2wood
            Established Member
            • Apr 2004
            • 453
            • NJ, USA.

            #6
            If you are building the wall on the floor and lifting it into place, always construct it a little shorter. Use shims on top during nailing. Sheetrocks will hide the shims.

            If you already built it too tall, you can wedge it into place if the difference is slight but it may cause damage to your ceiling if you have drywall in place.
            ________
            LIVE SEX
            Last edited by newbie2wood; 09-15-2011, 04:23 AM.

            Comment

            • Stytooner
              Roll Tide RIP Lee
              • Dec 2002
              • 4301
              • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
              • BT3100

              #7
              Build it on the floor so that its 1.5" shorter than the space. Get it plumb and nail it off to the floor and wall. Then slip a 2" by 4" on top. Nail it off to the top of the wall. Then toenail into your ceiling joists. No sheetrock damage visible this way. Don't use joist hanger nails.
              Lee

              Comment

              • Wood_workur
                Veteran Member
                • Aug 2005
                • 1914
                • Ohio
                • Ryobi bt3100-1

                #8
                Originally posted by Stytooner
                Build it on the floor so that its 1.5" shorter than the space. Get it plumb and nail it off to the floor and wall. Then slip a 2" by 4" on top. Nail it off to the top of the wall. Then toenail into your ceiling joists. No sheetrock damage visible this way. Don't use joist hanger nails.
                thanks- that sounds like the best Idea.
                Alex

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