Accurate Mitres...How do you do it?

[scoly]

I am replacing chair rail and floor molding in a bath and am having trouble with the mitre angles. Method is to measure angle with one of these

Cut to measured angle, fit, off just a bit, back to garage, adjust angle, cut fit, back to garage, etc. Has to be a better way.
Help!
Thanks
Steve

[gjbivin]

Are you using the guage itself to set up the cut, or just the measured angle? The guage and/or the saw angle scales could be (and probably are) inaccurate. The best way to set up, whenever possible, is "the thing itself". In other words, set your guage to the angle to be matched and lock it down, then take it to the saw and adjust the blade using the guage. You don't need to know the degrees of angle at all.

If your guage doesn't lock the angle securely, the tool to use in a situation like this is a sliding bevel like this one pictured on the Lee Valley Tool site.



You can get a basic one at the BORG or whatever store is in your area.

[LJR]

Try making a template. A template that's the same width as wood you're installing. Cut and file and sand the template to fit at the installation site and then use that to set your saw and make the cut.

[Ken Massingale]

What Gary said works for me too.
ken

[scoly]

Gary
I have been using the angle markings on my Incra mitre guage to set the angle which I believe are accurate but to take it a slightly different direction the markings on the measuring device could be off so your suggestion is appreciated. Will try it this evening. Thanks.
LJR
Feel sure your suggestion would be great. It just seems there should be an easier method. That's just me. Always looking for the easy way and end up spending twice the time. Really do appreciate the response and may give it a try after wasting a bit more time.
Steve

[gjbivin]

I've found that, in general, you should never trust squares, straightedges, or rulers to be completely accurate, unless -- or even if -- you pay big bucks. There's another discussion about engineer's squares in this forum that you've probably already read.

Usually, consistancy is more important than accuracy in WW projects. Always use the same ruler or tape measure on a project (at least in the parts where you need an accurate fit or lineup).

Cabinet makers often use a "story stick" -- they mark the dimensions directly on a stick at the site, then use the stick to measure with when building the project.

[Personal note: I'm finally no longer a "newbie"! Apparently the threshold is 100 posts.]

[drumpriest]

Cope the inside corner joints, miter the outside corner joints using a sliding T bevel. That's about all I can say on it. Coping is going to make your inside corner joints look great, and isn't THAT hard to do .

[scoly]

Finally went with transfering angles with the measuring device and coping the inside angles. First time coping and it was very easy. Used a jigsaw because I couldn't find my coping saw. Was fast, easy, and a near perfect fit. Thanks for the suggestions.
Steve

[scorrpio]

Insides, I cope. Outsides, I often cut a touch longer and then tune in place with a chisel.