Recycle used wood

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  • venkatbo
    Established Member
    • Jan 2006
    • 243
    • Cupertino, CA, USA.

    #1

    Recycle used wood

    Hi folks,

    Recently I was able get some pine and oak furniture. I was able to break them down neatly to boards. I've eliminated all metallic objects such as nails etc.

    However, they have some dark stain and polish. What is the best/safe way to remove the stain/polish.

    Thanks,
    /venkat
  • crokett
    The Full Monte
    • Jan 2003
    • 10627
    • Mebane, NC, USA.
    • Ryobi BT3000

    #2
    I've reused wood this way several times. My experience is I am always sanding projects after machining anyway so I've stopped removing the stain before starting work on a project.

    That is a long way of saying sanding works
    David

    The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

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    • Wood_workur
      Veteran Member
      • Aug 2005
      • 1914
      • Ohio
      • Ryobi bt3100-1

      #3
      Could you plane the wood down?
      Alex

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      • venkatbo
        Established Member
        • Jan 2006
        • 243
        • Cupertino, CA, USA.

        #4
        I was worried about planing - because I was concerned with the possibility of the polyurethane (?) coat ruining the the blades on the planer...

        Sanding seems to be the safest bet - may have to sand off 1/16" - 1/8" to get rid of the old stained surface.

        Thanks,
        /venkat

        Comment

        • JSUPreston
          Veteran Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 1189
          • Montgomery, AL.
          • Delta 36-979 w/Biesemyere fence kit making it a 36-982. Previous saw was BT3100-1.

          #5
          My current project is redoing an old desk my MIL had as a child for my son. Thing fell apart from old, weak glue. I've been using 80 grit on my ROS to get the old stain & poly (i guess) off of it. I've gone through about 15 5" sheets so far, and am not finished yet. Here's what I have learned:

          On my project, 80 grit is the way to go. Any finer, and it won't take it off.
          80 grit clogs up pretty quick, so have a large supply to go through.
          If you have a DC that you can hook up to the sander, DO IT! Also, wear breathing protection. DAMHIKT.
          Take your time. The stuff on the desk I am doing takes a while to get off. If it seems like it should be going a little faster (i.e.: looks like the sandpaper isn't working), take a break, get some water, and replace the sandpaper.

          Good luck.
          "It's a dog eat dog world out there, and I'm wearing Milk-Bone underwear."- Norm (from Cheers)

          Eat beef-because the west wasn't won on salad.

          Comment

          • venkatbo
            Established Member
            • Jan 2006
            • 243
            • Cupertino, CA, USA.

            #6
            Thanks JSUPreston.
            Do you happen to know the thickness od material removed... Would it be (1/16" - 1/8") or even more ? Wondering how much of the thinkness I'd lose in the process...

            Thanks,
            /venkat

            Comment

            • JSUPreston
              Veteran Member
              • Dec 2005
              • 1189
              • Montgomery, AL.
              • Delta 36-979 w/Biesemyere fence kit making it a 36-982. Previous saw was BT3100-1.

              #7
              I wasn't really trying to remove wood, so I stopped just as soon as I saw bare wood. I think the stain was actually in the finish. I did sand a few spots intentionally, but that was to make joints a little better. In other words, if I removed any wood, it wasn't much at all.

              My plan is to go over this a couple of more times working to around 220 before putting a new finish on it. Hopefully, I can then make this last another 30 to 50 years.
              "It's a dog eat dog world out there, and I'm wearing Milk-Bone underwear."- Norm (from Cheers)

              Eat beef-because the west wasn't won on salad.

              Comment

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