French Cleats

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  • jackellis
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2003
    • 2638
    • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
    • BT3100

    #1

    French Cleats

    At some point here soon I'm going to start building new cabinets and shelves for the garage. Number one will be a cabinet (actually three 24" units) that sits underneath the only window.

    I'd like to try using a French Cleat but we live in earthquake country and I'm thinking there could be enough movement to dislodge the cabinet if things start shaking.

    Any thoughts from the group would be appreciated.
  • crokett
    The Full Monte
    • Jan 2003
    • 10627
    • Mebane, NC, USA.
    • Ryobi BT3000

    #2
    I don't live in earthquake country, but on the cabinets I hung from french cleats in my shop I added a spacer to the bottom than ran some screws through the back of the cabinet into the spacer then into the studs.
    David

    The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

    Comment

    • scmhogg
      Veteran Member
      • Jan 2003
      • 1839
      • Simi Valley, CA, USA.
      • BT3000

      #3
      Jack,

      I think the cleat David is talking about is necessary for stability whether you live here or there.

      My office was one mile from the epicenter in Northridge in 1993. Since then, I have used nylon straps with screws and washers into the item and a stud. Things that were nailed or screwed tight to a wall did not survive. as the walls flexed the screws or nails either tore through the cabinet or broke off.
      The bookcases with the strap system held up, as they were allowed to move a little to relieve the stress.

      Steve
      I would never die for my beliefs because I might be wrong. Bertrand Russell

      Comment

      • crokett
        The Full Monte
        • Jan 2003
        • 10627
        • Mebane, NC, USA.
        • Ryobi BT3000

        #4
        I was in CA for 2 wks on business a few years ago. It took me a while to figure out why all the equipment in the lab was strapped down to the shelves. And the shelves were set on some floating system. I'd never seen that before.
        David

        The chief cause of failure in this life is giving up what you want most for what you want at the moment.

        Comment

        • jackellis
          Veteran Member
          • Nov 2003
          • 2638
          • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
          • BT3100

          #5
          We have touch latches on all of the kitchen cabinets with breakables in them so that the doors don't fly open in an earthquake. They worked well in '89. Gas water heater is strapped to the wall so it doesn't tip. Bottom sills are bolted to the foundations. Lots of shear plates holding rafters and corners together. Of course, the brick chimney could be a problem if it shakes really hard.

          You learn pretty fast about making sure valuables are protected in case the earth moves (and I'm not talkin' about sex here), then you hope for the best.

          Comment

          • bigsteel15
            Veteran Member
            • Feb 2006
            • 1079
            • Edmonton, AB
            • Ryobi BT3100

            #6
            Times like this I'm glad I live in Alberta
            Brian

            Welcome to the school of life
            Where corporal punishment is alive and well.

            Comment

            • RayintheUK
              Veteran Member
              • Sep 2003
              • 1792
              • Crowborough, East Sussex, United Kingdom.
              • Ryobi BT3000

              #7
              Originally posted by jackellis
              I'd like to try using a French Cleat but we live in earthquake country and I'm thinking there could be enough movement to dislodge the cabinet if things start shaking.
              I'm a real fan and quite an exponent of French cleats, frequently using a double row for heavier units. My method is to inset the back by 3/4" by running sides top and bottom in a dado. The top cleat is then glued and screwed at the top, where it gains additional support and glue surface from the top itself.

              Click image for larger version

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              I've made a simple jig to position the lower cleat, which consists of two wall sections of cleat held parallel by two stiles. To position the lower cleat, push the top part of the jig under the top cleat on the cabinet until it's home, then drop the pre-cut second cleat onto the lower part of the jig and mark position on cabinet. Glue and screw lower cleat.

              To hang, fix top cleat, turn jig upside down and hang it off the top cleat. Offer up lower wall cleat, mark then fix. Simple, but effective. The units can be additionally secured to the wall by a variety of methods, such as right-angled metal brackets top and/or bottom.

              To allow several units to hang from one length of cleat, the inner sides of the carcasses need notching for end-of run units, both sides of middle units, but this is easy to do and you can make a simple template to mark out with.

              Fortunately, I have absolutely no experience of earthquakes, so have no field experience of how effective French cleats would be in that situation. I hope that I never find out!

              Ray.
              Did I offend you? Click here.

              Comment

              • jhart
                Veteran Member
                • Feb 2004
                • 1715
                • Minneapolis, MN, USA.
                • BT3100

                #8
                When I hear/see all the problems with earthquakes and hurricanes, I remind myself how nice it is in Minnesota that we don't have those. We just freeze our a** off!
                Joe
                "All things are difficult before they are easy"

                Comment

                • Tom Hintz
                  Senior Member
                  • Feb 2004
                  • 549
                  • Concord, NC, USA.

                  #9
                  My BIL lives in San Diego and he hung his garage cabinets with a 3/4"-thick French Cleat, then secured the bottom of each cabinet to a stud with a 1/4"-diameter, 3"-long lag and the building inspector that checked the place for the occupancy permit gave it a thumbs up.
                  You better than we know that earthquakes come in all sizes and varieties. I think this installation will work in most of them but if it gets really tough, the cabinets are not going to be a big concern anyway.
                  Tom Hintz
                  NewWoodworker.com LLC

                  Comment

                  • BobSch
                    Veteran Member
                    • Aug 2004
                    • 4385
                    • Minneapolis, MN, USA.
                    • BT3100

                    #10
                    Here's what you need

                    Attached Files
                    Bob

                    Bad decisions make good stories.

                    Comment

                    • dlminehart
                      Veteran Member
                      • Jul 2003
                      • 1829
                      • San Jose, CA, USA.

                      #11
                      You are one sick puppy, Bob! Trying to pass those HF parts diagrams off as earthquake-safe!
                      - David

                      “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.” -- Oscar Wilde

                      Comment

                      • sacherjj
                        Senior Member
                        • Dec 2005
                        • 813
                        • Indianapolis, IN, USA.
                        • BT3100-1

                        #12
                        What do you guys use for French Cleats? I didn't know if I should go with 3/4" Birch ply (5 ply not Baltic Birch) or 3/4" poplar.
                        Joe Sacher

                        Comment

                        • RayintheUK
                          Veteran Member
                          • Sep 2003
                          • 1792
                          • Crowborough, East Sussex, United Kingdom.
                          • Ryobi BT3000

                          #13
                          I'd go for 3/4" poplar every time, Joe. I tend to use a 5" piece, cut at 45 degrees right down the middle.

                          Ray.
                          Did I offend you? Click here.

                          Comment

                          • sacherjj
                            Senior Member
                            • Dec 2005
                            • 813
                            • Indianapolis, IN, USA.
                            • BT3100-1

                            #14
                            Well Ray, then I guess I did okay. I picked up a bit of 5.5" wide poplar last night and planed to true it up then 45 it down the middle. I guess that will work.
                            Joe Sacher

                            Comment

                            • Ken Massingale
                              Veteran Member
                              • Dec 2002
                              • 3862
                              • Liberty, SC, USA.
                              • Ridgid TS3650

                              #15
                              Originally posted by RayintheUK
                              I'd go for 3/4" poplar every time, Joe. I tend to use a 5" piece, cut at 45 degrees right down the middle.

                              Ray.
                              Ray,
                              Is 3/4 Poplar good enough for an upper kitchen cabinet full of dishes or should I use 1 1/2" stock?
                              Thanks Ray
                              ken

                              Comment

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