Abused Teak

[zootroy]

My grandfather is the proud new owner of a 20' Boston Whaler ('79). Nice old boat but it needs some TLC. The teak on the interior has been stained, and some has been painted. Can it be restored? If so, what is the best method. I was going to strip it, sand it, and use spar varnish. I don't have any experience in wood restoration, so any advice would will be appreciated.

TIA,
Jason

[Jim Boyd]

That is what I would do. Lets see what Whaler says. He the resident expert of both boston Whalers and their woodwork

[Whaler]

Strip and sand it yes, I wouldn't put varnish on teak. Use a good quality teak oil. Continued applications may be needed untill the oil is soaked in.
Boston Whaler didn't use a lot of teak if it turns out to be mahogany varnish it.

[ted van halen]

I re-finished the teak in a speed boat I once owned. Star-brite has a 3-stage kit for doing so. It will need to be paint/varnish free though. It looked like new when I was done. Use it & you won't be disappointed.

[jabe]

I used to make my own stripping solution with 50% lacquer thinner & 50% denatured alcohol. Work in an well ventilated area, no open flame or sparks, wear chemical resistant gloves, safety glasses and you might want to use a respirator. Apply it with a brush and rub with a rough steel wool, work over a metal pan to catch all the drips (you can reuse it till it evaporates). After all the finish is stripped, do a final wash with lacquer thinner. Most commercial wood strippers do their final wash with water and it raises the grain and adds mositure to the wood. This method does not add moisture to the wood so you won't have to sand it as much. It's cheaper than commercial strippers and you get better results.
I make my own finishing oil with 16 fl. oz. boiled linseed oil & 16 fl.oz. turpentine with an ounce of Japan Dryer (if you don't use the japan dryer, it'll never dry) mixed together and apply with brush or rag. I usually use a wet/dry sandpaper 400 grit and sand the wood to make a slurry to fill all the pores in the wood. Make sure you dispose the rags in a covered metal container. Rags soaked with linseed oil are notorious for spontaneous combustion. After letting it dry couple of days you could apply a wax finish or a clear finish of your choice. For furniture, I sprayed 2 coats of gloss Deft lacquer and a final coat with Deft satin lacquer. Of course sanding lightly between coats. For boats, I would use a marine grade finish or just keep oiling the teak regularly.

[rbfunk]

As a former boat owner and an owner of some teak furniture I have to ask. How in the name of all things wooden, how do you get PAINT to stick to teak for more then one season? I have power washed, primed and painted the teak furniture with a high quality paint only to have it peal off in a couple of months. ( i love the look of oiled teak, the wife wanted it painted) Stain would be another story.
Bob

[bigstick509]

Thanks

Great info jabe.

[ted van halen]

..( i love the look of oiled teak, the wife wanted it painted) Stain would be another story...[/COLOR]
Bob

I think I rather re-make/re-purchase it in pine or poplar than paint the teak. Or perhaps a divorce. Fortunately for me (since I HATE to paint), wifey loves the natural look of quality wood. I even got her to look at all the stock for my bed project & pick out any stinkers.