Yikes, cabinet doors to paint!!

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  • ironhat
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2004
    • 2553
    • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
    • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

    #1

    Yikes, cabinet doors to paint!!

    The daughter announce this weekend that they are putting their 'homeowners special' on the market as-is (meaning, fixed and remodeled as far as they intend to go with it) and she needs some help with painting the cabinet doors which are only made of plywood. My question is what grit paper do I use to get these scuffed up and ready for paint? I've gone too coarse in the past and don't want to go there again. I believe I might try one of the sanding screen products since I have so many to do. Also, she doesn't want me to prime them - goes against my grain (no pun) and there are 20 of them!! I'll sand them outside and bring them into the shop in batches where I'll roll on the paint and then pull it out with a lightly tipped brush. This usually works for me quite well but without the primer... ugh, I'm scared!

    TIA,
    Chiz
    Blessings,
    Chiz
  • mschrank
    Veteran Member
    • Oct 2004
    • 1130
    • Hood River, OR, USA.
    • BT3000

    #2
    I can't tell for sure from your post...Are these doors already painted? If so, you don't need primer. I used to feel the same way as you about primer, but I've spoken with quite a few pro painters recently who say it's only necessary to prime bare wood.

    Not sure you need to sand at all. Just a good washing w/ TSP should do the trick.

    If it's bare wood, kinda depends on the condition for determining grit. I'd start with something in the "fine" or "medium" range (150-200 grit) and see if that does it efficiently. If not, might need to go a bit coarser and follow-up with the fine stuff.
    Mike

    Drywall screws are not wood screws

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    • RayintheUK
      Veteran Member
      • Sep 2003
      • 1792
      • Crowborough, East Sussex, United Kingdom.
      • Ryobi BT3000

      #3
      Yikes, indeed! If they're bare ply, I don't see how you can't prime them. Without a decent base coat, the finish is going to be patchy, at least. I'd whizz a 220 - 240 grit across them, roll on a thin coat of primer, 320 that when absolutely dry, then finish coat. It may be more work than your daughter intends (perhaps she's thinking of you, bless her!), but I've a feeling that they'll stand out for all the wrong reasons without being primed first.

      Ray.
      Did I offend you? Click here.

      Comment

      • ironhat
        Veteran Member
        • Aug 2004
        • 2553
        • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
        • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

        #4
        Sorry for the lack of clarity. They are probably varnished. Too old to be poly - I can't imagine it being a brushed on laquer but I guess it's possible. In my heart of hearts I'm going ot have to do two coats at least and wet-sand between coats for a nice finish. I haven't check to see if there is any softening as yet. They may need to be scraped in those areas.

        Chiz
        Last edited by ironhat; 04-25-2006, 03:45 PM.
        Blessings,
        Chiz

        Comment

        • mdutch
          Established Member
          • Nov 2005
          • 140
          • Dallas, TX, USA.

          #5
          Two very expensive things I've learned about old cabinet doors.

          1. Use oil-based paint. IMHO, there is NOT a latex enamel with enough durability to handle the wear and tear and dings and knocks of cabinet doors.

          2. The biggest danger is the accumulated layer of oil/grease/wax/lemon-oil/goo from prior housekeeping (or lack thereof). It will keep any paint you use from sticking properly.

          To take care of #2, you need to strip that off the goo-layer, or the paint won't stick (or worse, won't harden up). It may not seem sticky or oily, but any wax product or minute grease layer will mess up your paint job.

          Sand with 220grit, but also have some 150 in reserve. Make sure it's for painted surfaces, not bare-wood garnet paper (which will clog). Try your 220, and if it cleans up okay (doesn't clog) then continue, otherwise, use the 150 to cut the finish down and then do a light cleanup sanding with the 220.

          I always do a wipe-down with lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol and let them air dry thorougly before painting. Paint on a dry day. Paint in full shade (preferably inside the garage). As you finish the doors, you can bring them out to dry, but see if you can set up a way of hanging them vertically. I have screwed hangers or hooks into the hinge screw-hole, and put them on a clothesline.

          Good luck. We all hate painting.
          Dutch·man Pronunciation (dchmn)n.
          3. Something used to conceal faulty construction.
          Another DFW BT3'er!

          Comment

          • ironhat
            Veteran Member
            • Aug 2004
            • 2553
            • Chambersburg, PA (South-central).
            • Ridgid 3650 (can I still play here?)

            #6
            I hear ya, mdutch, regarding the oily buildup. The daughter tells me this AM to get 'em done ASAP, any way possible, as little prep as possible befause the house is listed as of today!!!!!!!!!! What the... This is not the way I do things but she does need to get out of this house. She got into this in a distressed neighborhood at a reduced mortgage rate if they would improve the property and they have. Due to local economic changes the house that she bought 4 years ago at $58K is listing at $110K!
            Later,
            Chiz
            Blessings,
            Chiz

            Comment

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