Faceframe Options

[JR]

If I do try the biscuit route, do I register the joiner fence on the outside edge of the carcass and the face frame before cutting the biscuit slots?

Well, that's the tricky part, isn't it?!

If the face frame and the carcass are the same size it's easy. You do as you suggested, alternately putting the fence of the bicuit cutter on the outside of the carcass, then the outside of the face frame. That way the slot is equally displaced from the outside on both pieces.

You've got a good idea about using a flush trim bit. Others will have more clever ideas, but I'd suggest clampling the face frame to carcass, trimming off the edge, then cutting the biscuit slots.

The alternative is to make the cuts in the face frame at a location which is the distiance of the carcass-slot offset + faceframe overhang. That's the dicey bit that LarryG was refering to. It's trickier to cut the slots this way, but easier to trim off the overhang when you're done.

Like sex, if there was only one way to do it, it wouldn't be as much fun!

JR

[drumpriest]

I agree that biscuits are about the best way to attach the FF to the cabinet. I typically have a 1/16" reveal on plywood cabinets with 1.5" face frame material. The reason is that I can then shim out for drawer slides with a second piece of 23/32" plywood. If I'm not using any drawers, then I'll do 2" face frame material.

I've attached mine with biscuits via aligning the fence at 3/8" and referencing off of the cabinet outside wall, then moving the fence to 7/16" and cutting the slot in the stile. Biscuits can be a little forgiving in that direction, and a lot forgiving in the other direction. If you are careful with your mearsurements, you should be fine.

Another option would be to use a shim of 1/16" under your fence. Then you don't have to move the fence to allow for your reveal.

[meika123]

I would put the frame in place where it is going to be, mark both locations with a pencil lightly, then remove it and cut the biscuit slots, allowing for the extra reveal at the edges.

Dave in NC

[JimD]

Pocket screws are a nice way to make joints in the face frame but it sounds like you are just framing the cabinet so you don't have to join the face frame members to anything but the cabinet. If you want to screw together the corners, pocket screws are a good way to do it but you don't have to.

If you have a little extra material as it sounds like you do and plan to trim with a flush trimming bit, I would probably try and position the frame members to overhang slightly on both sides. My solid wood is rarely perfectly straight and what is flush at a couple of points may not be flush along the entire length. An easy way to overhang both sides would be to register the biscuit joiner on the inside face of the cabinet and then reposition the fence 1/32 or so and cut the frame member. I use wooden block for positioning the fence on my old Skil biscuit jointer and would probably use a business card or two as a shim to reposition for the face frame cuts.

Jim