finish for red oak accessory table

[wreckwriter]

I'm going to be adding a small space filler table to my BT soon. I already have a nice piece of red oak to use. Can anyone give me some tips on finishing this piece, preferably a semi-idiotproof method since I've really never done this before, using easily available materials?

Thanks much!

[WayneJ]

Take some scraps of the red oak and try different stains on them to see what color you prefer. I have several pieaces that I have done in "Minwax" golden oak color that I realy like. A few coats of rub on poly over the stain and you should be good to go. Between the poly coats you can rub out the little nubs of dust with some "OOOO" steelwool.You can get the poly in satin or glossy, its your call. HTH
Wayne

[wreckwriter]

Take some scraps of the red oak and try different stains on them to see what color you prefer. I have several pieaces that I have done in "Minwax" golden oak color that I realy like. A few coats of rub on poly over the stain and you should be good to go. Between the poly coats you can rub out the little nubs of dust with some "OOOO" steelwool.You can get the poly in satin or glossy, its your call. HTH
Wayne

Thanks for the reply. Rub on? Meaning its put on with a rag (or something else?) rather than a brush?

[LarryG]

Stain if you wish, but beyond that I second the recommendation for wipe-on oil/poly ... three or four coats, with four-aught steel wool between each. It's about as foolproof as it gets.

As it happens, I'm building an extension wing myself, and plan to finish it the same as my torsion box assembly table, which uses red oak trim around all four sides:

The finish is one coat of General Finishes "Seal-A-Cell" followed by three coats of GF "Arm-R-Seal." If you watch WoodWorks on DIY Network, this is the so-called "tung oil" finish that David J Marks uses on almost everything ... it's actually a combination of linseed oil, tung oil, and polyurethane.

You can apply it with a soft rag, a foam brush, or a foam roller (I used the latter on my asssembly table).

Be SURE to heed the label directions about proper disposal of the rags!

[wreckwriter]

Nice. Thanks guys.

Sadly we don't get the DIY network. Closest thing to woodworking we get is the occasional "This Old House" or "In a Fix".

[JR]

As it happens, I'm building an extension wing myself, and plan to finish it the same as my torsion box assembly table, which uses red oak trim around all four sides:
[ATTACH]1078[/ATTACH]
... followed by three coats of GF "Arm-R-Seal." If you watch WoodWorks on DIY Network, this is the so-called "tung oil" finish that David J Marks uses on almost everything ... it's actually a combination of linseed oil, tung oil, and polyurethane.

Ok, two things:

• Larry, I've read you're complaints of small spaces in your shop, low overhead, etc. Now I look at your assembly area with a fresh view, and I feel obligated to say "YOU SUCK!!!" You know I mean it in the kindest way, brother.
• Where'd you get that tidbit that Arm-R-Seal is DM's tung oil of choice? It's a good one, and worth remembering, if true.

JR

[LarryG]

Regarding those two things, JR ...

1. What is not apparent in this picture is that the assembly table measures only 42" x 60", with its top only 18" above the floor; and that I was squatting under the accessory table of my BT when I took the picture ... using the widest angle setting for the lens.

2. Marks usually calls his finish "tung oil." On a few episodes, he says it's "a blend of tung oil, linseed oil, and polyurethane" (or words to that effect). On at least one episode, he says it's a commercial blend of those three ingredients. A little digging on his web site turned up the following:

"I have tried various methods of mixing linseed oil and tung oil in the past, but since the mid 80's I've been using a product called Seal-A-Cell and Arm-R-Seal made by the General Finishes Company and available through mail order as well as from Woodcraft.

"Since doing the first six seasons of Woodworks, this finish has been improved and no longer has the make-up stated in the show. I use two products starting with a sealer and finishing with a top coat. Company representatives state the sealer (which is clear but also available in different colored stains) is a blend of modified linseed oil, oil modified urethane, and alkyd resin, and dryers. The topcoat I use is called Arm-R-Seal and is now an oil modified urethane with dryers. The Arm-R-Seal is available in gloss, semi gloss, and satin."

So while he says the formulation changed, at least at the time the above was written he was continuing to use it. I figure anything good enough for DJM is good enough for me (although, to give credit where credit is due, it was forum member Otter who first turned me onto these products).

[Ken Massingale]

Yeah RIGHT!!

Nooooo! I ain't believing a word of that half donkey explanation of the ass-embly table. It's at least 12' by 12', and like JR said, YOU SUCK!!

No matter how huge it is, it's dang nice, Larry.

[wreckwriter]

Larry, that stuff looks good but also looks like I'd have to order it in. Is there anything decent that can be had at HD or Lowes? I got the wood cut today and would like to get started on the finish. Not looking for furniture quality, just utility for its assigned use.

Thanks again!

Tom

[wreckwriter]

One more quick question on this: what about the down side of the plank? Would you do anything to it? Obviously it would double the time required to finish as you would have to let the top dry fully first (or vice versa) and it seems likely the sides and ends would get messed up by "run off". Any reason to do anything to it? Maybe just seal with one coat?

[LarryG]

Is there anything decent that can be had at HD or Lowes?

The Lowe's here carries Watco Oil, which is also an oil/varnish blend. I've never used it myself but many have, with good results. Also look at some of the Minwax products.

I think most of the wiping varnishes you will find are actually oil/varnish blends. There are no regulatory agencies requiring the makers to divulge their proprietary formulas so it's a bit of a guessing game as to what you're getting.

I'm the farthest thing in the world from a finishing expert so I'm not well qualified to answer your other question. I do know that for stuff like exterior wood trim, it's important to back-prime because water can and will penetrate from all sides. But for interior stuff, even expensive furniture is typically not sealed or finished on the concealed sides, yet it holds up for years.

[wreckwriter]

Thanks Larry!

[gjbivin]

One more quick question on this: what about the down side of the plank? Would you do anything to it? Obviously it would double the time required to finish as you would have to let the top dry fully first (or vice versa) and it seems likely the sides and ends would get messed up by "run off". Any reason to do anything to it? Maybe just seal with one coat?

It's a pain, but probably a good idea to finish the bottom with more or less the same number of coats you do the top with. If you don't, you may have warping problems as the bottom absorbs more moisture than the top on muggy days.

You can speed things up by sharpening a few 3" lengths of dowel (I use a dedicated dowel tapering machine -- OK, a pencil sharpener). Drill holes in a piece of ply so you can stick in the dowels points up in a rectangle that will support the project. Coat the bottom first, then set it on the points and finish the coat on the top. The marks made by the dowel points will hardly show, especially as you do more coats. This also raises the project up so you can inspect for drips as you go along.

I made a finishing turntable with this idea: a plywood disk on a lazy-susan bearing, so I can rotate the piece easily. I drilled a grid of holes in the top of the rotating table so I can stick in dowels as needed to support the work.

[wreckwriter]

Excellent idea Gary. Thanks for sharing it!

[wreckwriter]

I've decided to try Minwax Wipe-On Poly, in gloss. It was available, reasonably priced and I'm told Fine Woodworking mag reviewed it very favorably. I've got a can of it and some soft clothes and very fine sandpaper. Hopefully get started in the next couple days. Thanks for all the tips!