Just brainstorming, but recently the LOML bought me the Delta 22-580 planer and it got me to wondering about the feasibility of converting an old used planer into a drum sander. Any thoughts about the potential of this?
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Dennis
"Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects" - Will Rogers
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I think planers spin at a much faster rate than drum sanders, so you'd have to figure out how to throttle it back. -
That, and probably a better dust collection hood. Then there's access for changing abrasives....Originally posted by Tundra_Man
A close look at Grizzly's new closed-end sander might give some ideas. Seems like that's based on the planer design.
One thing I think I'd like about this setup is more forceful infeed/outfeed rollers for snipe reduction. As it is now, with my Performax 10-20, I actually have to be careful.
Regards,
TomComment
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A friend and I have discussed this before and we are both of a mind that planer makers need to come up with a sanding head that can replace the planer head. I think it would sell.John HunterComment
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If they could do it with an open-end design to effectively double the capacity it would sell like hotcakes.Originally posted by John HunterBillComment
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This is Grizzly's new 12" model:
But what I can't figure: why wouldn't you pay ~$100 more for a Performax 10-20?
Regards,
TomComment
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I ditto that thought. Thanks guys for your input. I didn't think about the rpm's being faster...I think that might be difficult to reduce down.Originally posted by os1kne
ThanksDennis
"Everybody is ignorant, only on different subjects" - Will Rogers
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What about feeding the stock?
One thing I've never been clear on in the various schemes to convert a thickness planer into a drum sander:
A drum sander has a conveyer belt to feed the stock through the machine, with the workpiece moving against the rotational direction of the spinning drum. The belt is powered, but geared way down relative to the sanding drum.
A thickness planer just has smooth tables. So how will the workpiece be fed through the machine? It seems to me that if the feed direction is against the drum rotation, the workpiece is going to be shoved back into your face. If it's the other way, the drum will snatch the workpiece and yank it through the machine without any actual sanding being done.
Am I missing something?LarryComment
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Planers have two sets of rotating items. 1) the planer blades rotating in such a way as to throw the piece back out the way it came in. 2) the rollers that rotate to feed the piece through the machine. without the rollers anything you feed into the planer would be spit back out faster than you could believe. Sometimes I've had this happen unintentionally when working with a fragile piece.Originally posted by LarryGMike
Lakota's Dad
If at first you don't succeed, deny you were trying in the first place.Comment
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I've done alot of research into building my own drum sander. I've got my design in mind, only need to acquire the last few parts (axle and bearings for drum). According to what I've read and responses to some of my questions... (in other words, my ignorant opinion) he he he.
The needs of a hobbyist are much different than someone in a production shop. A feed belt is not absolutely neccesary. A smooth surface with push blocks is okay. You do want to push against the spin of the drum. You shouldn't set the drum at such grip that you can't control it. 1750 rpm on a 3-4" drum is standard. A router speed control can reduce it little further, or use pulleys for ratio decrease.
The problems I see with an old planer is modifying a drum, access to change paper, dust collection (you HAVE to get it up so it doesn't cake on the drum), and width limits for sanding panels. I am building my own because 1. It's the only way I can afford it and 2. It will be fun.
I think it would be wasteful to go through the effort of building one and not being able to sand cabinet door panels.
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