Hey all. I've just about finished my new extension table between my BT and my RAS. I'm gonna laminate the top of the MDF, but don't have much room for error on the placement. Contact cement worries me, because you miss and you're done (been there). Has anybody had any luck laminating with any other type of glue that allows repositioning?
Cement for laminate
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I'm assuming you know the tip about placing some "stickers" between the laminate and MDF? No? I've used small diameter dowels...I know a guy who likes to use slats from a window shade. The point is to use anything that will elevate the laminate above the cement until you get it positioned, then carefully pull the stickers out one by one. I usually start at the center and work out. Best case is you have enough laminate to reach a bit beyond the edges, so any overhang can be trimmed with a router.
If you already know all this, please disregard.
Otherwise, I don't know of anything with the sticking power of contact cement that would allow some open time.Mike
Drywall screws are not wood screws -
Yes, I've got some sticks I cut from 1/4" ply. Only have about 1/8" overhang on a $50 piece of laminate. Just worried I might "miss", even with the sticks. That would suck....eight, nine, TEN! Yep! Still got all my fingers!Comment
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stickers and paper
I have also heard that you can lay something like butchers paper between the top and the laminate and carefully pull it out. I think I might try using both that and the stickers if a $50 sheet of laminate was at risk .
Mike LComment
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I know this is a somewhat old thread, and the OP has probably already finished the project (if so, how'd it come out?), but thought I'd pass this along for anyone else looking for a similar product:
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPR...ARTNUM=116-348
It's called FSV (Flexible Sheet Veneer) adhesive. I found a data sheet on it that says it's also suitable for plastic laminate (Formica). It gives you a bit of open time, so more forgiving than contact cement.Mike
Drywall screws are not wood screwsComment
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If main problem is alignment, here's a way. Lay the (dry) laminate on top of MDF, make sure it is aligned. Place a straight 2x4 so it runs along the laminate, clamp the 2x4, and mark where corners of the laminate are on the 2x4.
Next, when cement is applied, butt laminate's edge firmly against the 2x4 between the marks, and lower it in place.Comment
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Scorrpio that is about the best idea I've seen in quite some time. I too am planning on laminating a table top but I'll be applying it to both sides and that stick thing has always worried me. That idea of yours takes a lot of the worry out for me. Thanks for mentioning it.May you die and go to heaven before the Devil knows you're dead. My Best, MacComment
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Originally posted by just4funsiesYes, I've got some sticks I cut from 1/4" ply. Only have about 1/8" overhang on a $50 piece of laminate. Just worried I might "miss", even with the sticks. That would suck.
Dave in NCStress is when you wake up screaming and then you realize you haven't fallen asleep yet.Comment
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