workbench finish?

[gimpy]

I'm just finishing up my workbench. I put together the top last night. It is 3/4 inch plywood (on the bottom) screwed to 3/4 inch mdf (on the top). The plans call for 3/4 inch thick trim put around the top, so I bought 1 X 2 white pine at H.D. for the trim. The trim is not put on yet (hopefully today). The question I have is, I wish to put a laminate/temporary/removable top on the mdf, maybe 1/4 inch hardboard? If so, how is that put on? With screws?

The white pine strip is just the right width to cover the 1 1/2 thickness of the top, so then the removable top (hardboard?) will stick above the trim? I'm kind of confusing myself. I really didn't want to screw the 1/4 inch into the top, but don't know how else to temporarily attach it.

Also, I wish to put a finish on the bench. Except for the mdf top, the base is laminated plywood. What would be a good clear finish to rub/put on the base (legs, stretchers and 2 shelfs).

One last question (I hope). I guess one leg might be 1/16 inch or so shorter than the others as the bench does rock slightly. Is there a way to do something to do away with the "rocking". I haven't used the bench, yet, so not sure just how bad that is.

Thx for any/all help/suggestions.

This was a week-end project (per the magazine article) that took me over a month to do and still not finished.

thx, Frank

[lcm1947]

I fairly new to woodworking myself so don't know a lot yet but thought I'd reply just to give you something to read until the better answers start coming in. First of all, good choice in my opinion on table top material and the way you screwed it together. Course that's how I did mine so am kind of opinionated. I think I got the idea from Loring originally. Anyway as far as finish I'd use water based poly & stain. I think poly is pretty good stuff for protection and the stain in it will give your project a better overall appearance. My bench on the other hand was just finished with regular poly without the stain and the different colors and types of wood don't add to a pleasing overall appearance. As far as the molding around the edges of the top I think you'll have to buy wider board and rip it to the correct size if you insist on adding that hardboard to the top. Or you could just raise the hardwood up level with the hardboard and have it short on the bottom. I don't think that would look too good however. As far as how to anchor the hardboard to the MDF I agree with you it'll probably have to be screwed on unless somebody else comes along with a better idea. As far as that leg being uneven are you sure it's not your floor that's not level? If it is then rather then redoing it I'd just use a shim either under the leg/floor or something. Just depends on how it's fastened together currently. Anyway my thoughts. Regardless, sounds like you're having fun and learning this woodworking habit.

[gimpy]

Mac, your thinking is really along the lines of my thinking. I am going to make the trim 1/8 inch proud (right word for sticking above the top?) of the top. Buy 1/8 hardboard and use double stick tape to hold it down (saw that on another post). I think that will hold it down good enough and should not be too hard to change when the time comes to do it.

As far as the finish, I will check around for the poly and stain.

The rocking is not too bad right now. I moved the bench a little and that helped quite a bit. I will see how it is when I put it in its final spot.

This was my first major project using the BT 3100. Although a few of my cuts and measurements were off, I did learn a lot from this project. I got the plan from the '05-'06 "Tools and Shops" annual issue from Fine Wood Working magazine. The legs and stretchers are made from laminated plywood that I glued together. It has actually turned out pretty much like the picture in the magazine. One of the things I did learn was to take into account the width of the blade kerf when cutting multiple slats from a premeasured board (which I did not do--the last board cut in the series was about 3/8 inch too narrow). There were a few other "oops" but all in all, not too bad (another one was using 3 inch screws to connect the top to the base--should have been 2 1/2 screws, since corrected).

So, thx for your advice and help.
Frank

[ddamoore]

Frank,

a good overall finish for workshop items is an oil/varnish blend, such as Watco Danish Oil, Deft Danish Oil, or Minwax Antique Oil Finish.

Or alternatively you can make your own - by using a mixture of 1 part polyurethane, 1 part mineral spirits, & 1 part boiled linseed oil.

1. Wipe the mixture on with a rag.
2. Let it sit & absorb in for about 10 - 30 minutes (depending upon the environment).
3. Buff the remaining finish off with a clean cloth.
4. You will need to put on at least three to four coats. Needs to dry about 24 hours between coats.


Don't use around open flames, and don't pile any used rags (may spontaneously combust). Lay the oily rags out individually to dry or put them in a container of water until they can be disposed of properly.

[gimpy]

ddamoore, thx for the suggestion. I will look for one of those finish's at H.D. I'm not into it enough yet to mix my own, so will go with whatever H.D. or Homco has, Watco or Deft Danish oil.

Mac, as far as the trim goes, I did both. I ripped a 1 X 4 white pine that I had bought for the length wise portion and was able to make it 1/8 inch above the table top, on both sides. The table is 72 X 33, so there was not enough board (6 footer) to do a miter for the ends, so I butt jointed them (not as nice looking, but all I could do without having to go to town and get another board). For the two ends, I had a single 1 X 2 white pine (6 footer). The sides are flush with the bottom of the table top plus 1/8 inch proud over the top. The ends, I made 1/8 inch proud over the top of the table top, but they weren't wide enough to go flush with the bottom; therefore, they are 1/8 inch short on the bottom side of the table top. You can not see the difference except where the corners meet. Then it is quite noticeable. But couldn't be helped in this instance. I was just anxious to get it done.

Only problem I had with the trim was, it split when I put screws in it. I did not notice it until the end screw actually split the trim enough where I could see it. I was able to back the screw out some and glue the pieces together. On closer inspection of the other screws, I did see some more splitting, although to a lesser degree. Almost not noticeable. So, I learned something more. I need to countersink even deeper than what I was, and not put too much pressure on getting the screws quite so tight and deep.

Again, thx, Mac and Dennis, for the advice and help. I really appreciate it. All I need to do now is buy/apply the finish and the 1/8 inch hardboard. Otherwise, I can use it now if need be.

thx, Frank

[lcm1947]

Sounds like you learned some stuff and where able to adjust to the errors to make it work. I am finding out that that seems to be half of woodworking at least until you get good like some of these guys. Some of the stuff these guys can build make me sick with envy but one of these days ...... Yeah bummer when screws split the wood. That is one of the things that make me so mad at myself. Oh well, live and learn but why do I always seem to have to learn the hard way. You might be better off not trying to miter the trim sides anyway. It is so hard to get it perfect and if you dont' get it perfect it is so noticeable. Can you post a picture of the table? I'd love to see it. If you can't that's cool. Just interested. So are you going to go back and correct the end trim pieces when you get around to being able to go buy more wood or leave it like that? Yep, sounds like it's coming together nicely.

[gimpy]

Mac, I don't plan on changing/correcting the end pieces. It's like this to stay. As far as pics?, I've never taken any for computer purposes. For Christmas, my wife and I bought my son a pretty nice (as in expensive--to me, anyway) digital camera. He sent us his old one (we did not have a camera-used throw-aways), but I still need to get a memory card for it (he didn't send that) and a usb (?) line to download the pics. Haven't taken any with it, yet. But, hopefully, I will get that stuff and take a couple, then learn how to put it to computer.

If I do all of that, then I will try and take some pics.

thx, for all your help/encouragement. It means a lot.
Frank

[lcm1947]

Hey no problem on the pictures Frank. Take your time - if ever. It took me over a year from joining the forum to finally getting a digital camera myself but it's just so neat to be able to see other peoples work and show your own stuff. Some never do and that's certainly alright too. So going to leave the trim that way. Yeah I probably would too. Too many other things to build and it won't take away from being able to use it so go for it. Kind of like my router table. Man, it's been one opps after another. This learning curve seems to be full of them. So a retired cop I see. Good show on both and a big thank you for your service.