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The motor is listed as 1HP but is rated at 5.9A at 230V. The experts say it pulls way more power than a modern 1HP motor. I did throw a 2" piece of walnut at it and it didn't hesitate a bit.
I will most likely use full kerf blades on this saw.
When I made my kitchen cabinets I used the track saw for all the plywood cuts and sizing of door panel components. I used the TS for long thin rips like door frames and rail/stile and for rabbets/dados in the cabinet box construction.
I'm space challenged in my garage shop. I built a nice router table after I sold my other cabinet saw so don't have space for a long fence on the TS. That's what makes this old Uni a nice size for my shop it has short rails - I'll just leave the large panel cuts up to my track saw system.
MikeComment
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I took the long rails off my BT3100 when I saw how nice it is to do wide rips with my track saw. Accuracy is good and it is a lot less of a struggle to move a saw than 80 lbs of sheet goods. But I still see a use for a table saw to do smaller cuts including joints. It may have to go into storage until we add a bay to the garage but I plan to still use my table saw. If it was the only thing going into storage maybe I would sell it and replace it but I think I will fill a decent sized unit.Comment
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Great looking saw Mike. You mention your track saw system in your post and since I'm thinking about putting one together I'd appreciate any input you could provide.
Mike
"It's not the things you don't know that will hurt you, it's the things you think you know that ain't so." - Mark TwainComment
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Mike,
You didn't ask me but mine is a DeWalt. It has noticably tighter arbor bearings - the blade tracks much tighter than my Milwaukee. I don't see a way to get similar accuracy without the special saw. My setup was expensive, around $500, but I'm glad I bought it. I have the saw, a 59inch and a 109 inch rail, the quick release clamps, and the router attachment. I haven't used the router attachment yet but the clamps are a very good addition. An advantage of the DeWalt over the Festool is the depth adjustment is in inches. I guess not everybody would see that as an advantage but I really do. I just do not think in metric. Since the saw plunges, you are setting a stop. It is quite accurate. I used mine most recently to trim doors but before that I cut up a bunch of waferboard for a home project. I used one sheep of wafer over sawhorses as the work surface. I set the depth of cut at 1/2 inch and cut the 7/16 wafer. I could use the bottom sheet because the scoring was of 1/16 or a little less depth.
The tight arbor bearings are necessary to keep the soft insert in the track that gets cut the first time you use the saw accurate. If the blade wobbles, even if it is only on startup or shutdown, (like my Milwaukee does), that edge gets eroded and accuracy suffers. With good tight bearings, you can position the track on the middle of your mark and know that is where the cut will be.
It is also safer than using a table saw. The DeWalt even has kickback stopping anti-reverse on the sliding mechanism. Nice tool (but it should be for the price).Comment
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The Festool TS 55 REQ comes with an adhesive Imperial scale that you can affix to the saw. I prefer the metric scale. It is not that big of a deal to set depth in metric. One of the best ways to get used to this is to buy a tape measure or ruler that has both inches and millimeters. That way you can easily see the settings in millimeters while you measure in inches. You can still uses inches everywhere else. Perfect example is the "new" plywoods that are just a bit thinner than we are used to. Turns out they are metric. That plywood I cut that was not quite 1/4" is really 6mm thick. I set the track saw to 8mm, so that I know I'll cut all the way thru. Half inch ply is 12mm, and 3/4" ply is 19mm. Pretty easy, and no need to struggle with figuring out how many 32nds or 64ths the thickness of that wood really is.
The Festool track saw is simply amazing. I was going to buy a SawStop 3HP PCS so I'd have power to rip plywood panels. The track saw is superior, and the cuts are tearout-free (top splinterguard on the saw, bottom one of the guide rails).
My BT3100 still sees use, but the SawStop upgrade got indefinitely delayed because of the track saw.LeeComment
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Good point about the plywood being metric anyway. I still don't want to use metric scales, however, and plan to continue to avoid them at least until God takes me home.
The bottom splinter preventer is unique to the Festool but cuts on the DeWalt are almost as spinter free. I think when they were tested side by side the Festool cuts on the side of the wood where the guide was not located were a little less splintery. Both were splinter free under the guide (as one would expect anyway since the guide will hold the fibers down).Comment
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I have that exact saw. It's a beast. Huge motor, powers through whatever you can lift on to the table.
You're missing the motor cover though.
Did you get the splitter?"Why are there Braille codes on drive-up ATM machines?"Comment
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Do you have a spare motor cover ?
(I see them going for $200+ at the jungle)
Mr. Lee S. has me on the list for a Shark.
I'm also thinking of ideas for mobility and collecting cabinet dust.
MikeComment
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It was either on OWWM or Woodnet. Someone formed their own motor cover from, I think, fiberglass. They made a form and laid down strips of fiberglass. When he was done, I couldn't tell that it wasn't original or that it wasn't metal.
From what you've shown, it's totally within your skill set.Comment
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Someone else was wanting some pictures of my kitchen so thought I'd share them:
Oh - and a before:
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