WANTED: Shark Guard for Unisaw, MODEL 34-802

[Powercat80]

Would like to buy a shark guard with a vaccuum port for my older Unisaw. Feel free to PM me. Thanks

[SARGE..g-47]

Would like to buy a shark guard with a vaccuum port for my older Unisaw. Feel free to PM me. Thanks

Not likely you will get one used, PC. For someone keeping the Uni-saw there is nothing on the market better. For someone selling to upgrade as I did to get a 5 HP Steel City... I would keep the Shark with the saw to increase value sale power.

I would suggest save your money... call or -email Lee Styrone and order one even if it will take 2 months to get it. You won't be sorry you waited.

[Powercat80]

Shark

Thanks for the comments Sarge. One of the reasons I posted here is because of the lead time as I am trying to set up dust collection in my shop over the Holidays. Thought I might find a member that ordered by mistake or something. I intend to keep this saw for awhile as it fits my needs well.

BTW, just curious as to your comment of "Save your money,.... you'll be glad you waited."

[SARGE..g-47]

Thanks for the comments Sarge. One of the reasons I posted here is because of the lead time as I am trying to set up dust collection in my shop over the Holidays. Thought I might find a member that ordered by mistake or something. I intend to keep this saw for awhile as it fits my needs well.

BTW, just curious as to your comment of "Save your money,.... you'll be glad you waited."

Disregard the "save your money" as I assumed (and you know what ass-u-me means) that you did not have the enough for full purchase price and were looking for a deal. In this case you were only trying to save time as opposed to money in a not so good economy for many of us.

I should have ask but a question of that nature is one I woulldn't ask as it's really none of my business unless you make it public information.

Regards...

[SARGE..g-47]

Opps.. BTW.. you could purchase a big mouth shield from Penn State and make one similar to the SG. It would require trimming the stock shield they sell separate for $25 as it is designed square to float over the stock. You have to trim an arc in the front to raise and flow up and over stock if you use it with the stock splitter on your band-saw.

And you have to drill a hole for a 5" hex bolt to go through the shield... a hole you drill through the splitter and through the other side. You can add a crown gaurd to the spliiter as I do if you wish to stop upward launch in kick-back if it should occur.

So.. depends on how mechanical you are and if you want to invest a few hours of time... Here's pic of my Steel City 5 HP I modified. I did the same with the Uni-saw I sold but did purchase Lee's excellently machined splitter to use with the Uni-saw when I had it.

Regards...

[Powercat80]

Big Mouth

Sarge: It seems that the Penn State Big Mouth is back ordered as well. Anyway thanks for all the input. Am I correct in assuming that the only mod you made on the big mouth was to drill a hole through your existing splitter and the plastic hood to attach the two? Did you have to make any other mods. to the hood? Also can you enlighten my on the "crown" guard to prevent launch. I do have this issue at times.

Finally on a seperate note. Where do you find a good/economical source for flex hose. Because my shop is small and I only use one machine at a time I intend to plumb with 4 inch "pvc" and connect with 4 inch "flex" at each machine. But I can't find a good source here in Austin. Is that 2.5 inch flex connected to your guard?

Thanks again...

[JSUPreston]

Where do you find a good/economical source for flex hose. Because my shop is small and I only use one machine at a time I intend to plumb with 4 inch "pvc" and connect with 4 inch "flex" at each machine. But I can't find a good source here in Austin. Is that 2.5 inch flex connected to your guard?

Thanks again...

PC, everything I've heard and read about dust collection tells me that you would be better off using 4" HVAC instead of PVC. With the PVC, there is the risk of static discharge igniting the dust. I'm sure someone else on the board can explain it better. I too need to set up my dust collection. I got the $100 Delta DC during the summer Lowe's clearance and have put it together. That was pretty much the last time I was in the shop.

[SARGE..g-47]

Sarge: It seems that the Penn State Big Mouth is back ordered as well. Anyway thanks for all the input. Am I correct in assuming that the only mod you made on the big mouth was to drill a hole through your existing splitter and the plastic hood to attach the two? Did you have to make any other mods. to the hood? Also can you enlighten my on the "crown" guard to prevent launch. I do have this issue at times.

Finally on a seperate note. Where do you find a good/economical source for flex hose. Because my shop is small and I only use one machine at a time I intend to plumb with 4 inch "pvc" and connect with 4 inch "flex" at each machine. But I can't find a good source here in Austin. Is that 2.5 inch flex connected to your guard?

Thanks again...

You have to attach the shield with a hex bolt... best to use nylon spacers on the bolt on the inside of the shield to prevent the wide mouth shield from shifting... and you have to modify the box shape of the base of the shield. That is done as the shield from Penn State is a basic box designed to hang over the stock but you are using it attached to the shield arm and it has to rise up when stock touches the front and allow the stock to slide under.

Crown basically means "top" so... a crown guard is basically a solid piece you attach to the splitter itself to extend out over at least the rear portion of the blade to stop any stock that could be launched directly upward in kick-back. I make mine out of a piece of hard-wood scrap. You could use phenolic.. metal.. plastic.. etc. Just as long as it is solid and attached positively to the splitter. I used two 5/16" T bolts on the Uni-saw with T small 5/16" star knobs on the opposite threaded end to allow quick release. Crown guards are seen on most European saws and I got some training Ian Kirby who is English. I have used the idea since as it makes sense from a safety issue.

Try... www.ptreeusa.com or call from the number at that site and ask for Dave.. Tell him Sarge from Lawrenceville sent you. They are about 15 miles down the street. About as cheap as I've seen it if you get the heavy duty clear.

I use a short run of 6" PVC from the cyclone across the ceiling and down a wall. At that point I use a 16' heavy.. clear flex hose that is wire re-enforced as I also hook to one machine at a time. But.. my large machines (20" planer.. 8" jointer.. 18" BS.. TS are close to the cyclone which is centrally located. I enlarged all the ports on those machines to 6" so I don't have drops or reductions at the machine end.

There is conflicting info out there about using PVC and static. Yes.. it has caused fires in industrial situations but there is no evidence that enough static build-up can occur in a home shop to start one. This has been debated time and time again on various forums.

My person experience is I grounded the PVC all the way from the cyclone to the machine using the spiral wire inside the 16' flex.. copper wire wrapped on the outside of the PVC attached by sheet metal screws every 6" and an additional wire to the machine where I drilled a hole in it to accept a sheet metal screw to attach the copper wire. I used quick connect male and female connectors on those end wires so I could slip off the hose and move it to another machine quickly. Takes me about 30 seconds to be connected on the TS where I leave it connected to another large machine.

PVC.. H type.. metal pipe.. all will work depending on the amount of run lenght as the farther you go.. the less efficiency. Same with drops... bends... reductions.. etc. So... just do what is best for your shop as no two will be set up idenical nor be the same size IMO,