Not sure why would anyone be wanting the dust bag. It prevents dust that spews out of the back chute from flying all over, that's about it. If you want anywhere near decent dust removal, hook up a shop vac or something better.
Far as dado plate and ZCTPs go, it is so easy to make one yourself, I just can't understand why would anyone spend money on one. Cut one out of tempered hardboard or Lexan using existing plate as a template, drill, countersink, use existing tapped holes to secure with 14-20 flathead machine screws (might need to buy a couple of them at any hardware store), shim with some tape until totally level with table, done! Only thing left is start your blade while fully below table, and then lift it sloooowly and let it cut through the plate.
The factory dado plate is sized to accomodate the largest and widest possible dado stack. Which mean that cutting a 3/8" dado with a 6" stack set you will have huge gaps everywhere around the blade - not a good thing.
Thanks scorrpio, I'll give it a try. When you say "tempered hardboard" what does that mean exactly ? If I use plexiglass, what type of saw and blade does one use to cut that, I'd be afraid of it being very brittle to work with. As far as the dust collector, I guess I'd be better to use the shop vac, but my old shop vac doesn't have the proper diameter tube (mine is smaller than the exhaust of the 3100) Thanks again for the info.
Measure twice....cut once. Happiness makes up in height what it lacks in length (Robert Frost)
I hope that in Canada it goes by the same name. At Home Depot here, it is in the 'handy panel' section that has plywood, MDF and hardboard in 2x2 and 2x4 sizes. Comes in 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" thickness. The label pretty much says 'tempered hardboard'. Pick out a tempered and a non-tempered sheet - you'll notice the difference immediately. Tempered is a lot more rigid, and its surface is tougher. A 2x4 3/16" tempered panel costs about US $4.
Then there is acrylic (widely known as plexiglass), which comes in 1/8" and 1/4" thickness. 1/8" is too flexible to make a good throat plate. Machines very well with a regular blade, but I recommend using a backer board to prevent tearout.
Polycarbonate panels (Our HD carries Lexan brand) are more rigid, so 1/8" is fine for a throat plate - but it is brittle, and special care should be taken when machining it. A good sharp carbide blade, a backerboard and slow feed rates should work. Be sure to use protective eyewear.
As far as the dust collector, I guess I'd be better to use the shop vac, but my old shop vac doesn't have the proper diameter tube (mine is smaller than the exhaust of the 3100) Thanks again for the info.
I just used a plastic plumbing elbow and reducing adapter to get down to shop vac sized hose.
I hope that in Canada it goes by the same name. At Home Depot here, it is in the 'handy panel' section that has plywood, MDF and hardboard in 2x2 and 2x4 sizes. Comes in 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" thickness. The label pretty much says 'tempered hardboard'. Pick out a tempered and a non-tempered sheet - you'll notice the difference immediately. Tempered is a lot more rigid, and its surface is tougher. A 2x4 3/16" tempered panel costs about US $4.
Then there is acrylic (widely known as plexiglass), which comes in 1/8" and 1/4" thickness. 1/8" is too flexible to make a good throat plate. Machines very well with a regular blade, but I recommend using a backer board to prevent tearout.
Polycarbonate panels (Our HD carries Lexan brand) are more rigid, so 1/8" is fine for a throat plate - but it is brittle, and special care should be taken when machining it. A good sharp carbide blade, a backerboard and slow feed rates should work. Be sure to use protective eyewear.
What you are describing sound and awful lot like something we call Masonite, which is dark brown in color, shiny, and extremely smooth on one side. I think this is what they use to make peg-board as well only with the holes in it. So it's the 3/16" stuff I'd need ? I'd prefer using the hard board rather than the acrylic just because I'm too chicken to use the latter.
Stick~ Does the 2"plastic 90 degree elbow go "in" the exhaust or "out and around" the exhaust port of the saw ? What did you use to clamp it onto the exhaust ?
Should I be using a bag in my shop vac or just use without, letting the dust go directly into the cavity of the vac ? All silly little questions, but at this point I just like to get different idea's then weigh the odds of what I'd like to do. Thanks guys.
Measure twice....cut once. Happiness makes up in height what it lacks in length (Robert Frost)
A lot of folks use 1/2" baltic birch plywood. It's stable, it fits relatively snug to the opening, and it's not horrible on your blade to cut it. Just lay it out, cut to size, drill the holes to fit, shim / trim it to fit, and you're in business! If you cut several at once, you'll be able to cut different width dadoes in them, label them and use the right one as needed.
Hey Ray, Scorpio gave very good info on how to make one. Just in case if it didn't work let me know! I have a set (2 in the box - unopened) ZCTP for BT3000 but I think it is the same for 3100.
Turaj (in Toronto) "When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading!" Henny Youngman
Hey Ray, Scorpio gave very good info on how to make one. Just in case if it didn't work let me know! I have a set (2 in the box - unopened) ZCTP for BT3000 but I think it is the same for 3100.
I have a couple of Sears ZCTP that can be used for dado or zctp. Brand new. Am willing to trade for ?? (Hmm. Maybe some t-bolts or nuts?) I'll pay my postage, you can pay yours, and we'll both be happy. I'll also include a copy of the installation instructions, but you probably don't need them.
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