remote start generstor

[toolguy1000]

this generator is being discounted by costco with an instant coupon to $550. electric and remote control start make it a really good deal, IMHO. if i didn't already have a genny that i converted to run on both gasoline and natural gas, i'd jump on it:

http://www.championpowerequipment.com/generators/41532/

just passing on info that might be helpful to someone else.

[cabinetman]

That is a good deal. I like the remote start, and the no flat wheels.

.

[BobSch]

After this weekend, I'm going to get a generator. Two power failures in two days that lasted several hours each has me convinced. Now just to figure out how big, what kind of transfer switch, which fuel...

There's some in the area who are still without power.

[JimD]

I've remained interested in a generator but our power is underground and very dependable so I haven't bought anything. Transferring is an important element of making a generator useful. An automatic transfer switch and electric start generator would be the most convenient but also the highest cost. It would also be more convenient if your critical circuits were arranged together so you could easily power the lights, furnace, refrigerator, etc.. 7000W = 58 amps at 120V so it could power most of the loads but would struggle if asked to do the AC, dryer, or stove - at least in combination with the lights etc.. AC is probably the biggest load for me. If you have an electric hot water heater it is also a big 220V load. For fuel, natural gas seems ideal but it makes the generator cost more and not everybody has it available.

If I ever do this, it will probably be propane or natural gas but with a manual transfer switch. Hauling gas cans during an emergency just doesn't appeal to me but I think we could manage to flip the switch.

Jim

[toolguy1000]

......If I ever do this, it will probably be propane or natural gas but with a manual transfer switch. Hauling gas cans during an emergency just doesn't appeal to me but I think we could manage to flip the switch.

Jim

that's my set up now. a 4 KW generac portable that i just added a natural gas conversion kit to so it runs on both NG and gasoline with a manual transfer switch which i installed myself. considered selling my genny and buying the remote start unit, but it would just use more fuel and i'd have to upgrade the transfer switch to power more circuits (and i'm just too lazy to do that).

[woodturner]

7000W = 58 amps at 120V so it could power most of the loads but would struggle if asked to do the AC, dryer, or stove - at least in combination with the lights etc.. AC is probably the biggest load for me.

Just in case someone is planning to get a generator and heavily load it, please be aware that the AC power calculation includes the power factor. Average residential power factors are usually 0.9 to 1.0, so a conservative calculation would be (0.9*7000W)/120Vrms=52A - not a huge difference, but possibly a concern if the generator will be heavily loaded.

Power factor will drop when large induction motors start up - such as the motor on your AC. The power factor can drop to the range of 0.65 or so when these motors start, but only for a few seconds. For those few seconds, though, available current could drop to 38A or so. This should only be a concern if the generator is heavily loaded or multiple inductive loads are starting up at the same time. For example, if you have more than one AC compressor and they start at the same time, that could be a potential issue.

BTW, the momentary drop in PF can cause the shop lights dim when that that 3 HP table saw is started, even though the circuit and wiring are sized appropriately.

There are power factor correction devices available, but they are largely considered a scam for residential use. Industry corrects power factor to reduce power tariffs, but residential usage is billed by KWh and power factor correction does not affect that.