Plumbing Question

[Raffi]

Can any of you, with greater plumbing knowledge than I, steer me in the right direction?

Water main hookup to house:

New copper line coming up to house from street.

Existing galvanized pipe that feed the house.

The galvy is coming out of the wall at 90 degrees (obviously I guess)

The new copper service comes up maybe 8" from the wall, but not exactly in line with where the galv comes out of the wall. Maybe an inch or so offline, so I was thinking elbows wont line up just right.

How the heck do I connect them properly. Best I've come up with is using a flex line like from a water heater and a few nipples, but that doesnt seem right. I'm sure there is an obvious fix for this.

[cabinetman]

Are you planning for a shutoff there? Maybe one or two offset angles.

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[conscience]

Some combination of 22.5, 45 and 90 degree fittings would probably work. You may have to play with it a little bit to get the angles and lengths right but it is doable.

The easiest thing might be to make a straight galvanized/copper connection at the wall and then use a 90 degree elbow to turn down. Angle it slightly toward the copper pipe.

Attach a 22.5 or 45 degree fitting to the top of the copper supply line and twist it until it is in line with the 90. Cut a nipple to fit in between the two. You'll have to play with the height of the supply line and the length of the wall pipe to get it to work.

[Raffi]

Are you planning for a shutoff there? Maybe one or two offset angles.

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The new main comes straight from service to near the house, then has a 90 going up, then shutoff, then a pressure reducer. It's after this that it needs to connect to the house.

[Raffi]

The easiest thing might be to make a straight galvanized/copper connection at the wall and then use a 90 degree elbow to turn down. Angle it slightly toward the copper pipe.

I have a feeling this is the obvious answer I was missing, thanks.

So straight out from wall, 90, short pipe, and another 90 down to connect to service.

[toolguy1000]

Can any of you, with greater plumbing knowledge than I, steer me in the right direction?

Water main hookup to house:

New copper line coming up to house from street.

Existing galvanized pipe that feed the house.

The galvy is coming out of the wall at 90 degrees (obviously I guess)

The new copper service comes up maybe 8" from the wall, but not exactly in line with where the galv comes out of the wall. Maybe an inch or so offline, so I was thinking elbows wont line up just right.

How the heck do I connect them properly. Best I've come up with is using a flex line like from a water heater and a few nipples, but that doesnt seem right. I'm sure there is an obvious fix for this.

get a regular copper 90 and a copper street 90. put the non fitting end (the smaller end) of the street 90 into the regular 90 and place the regular 90 on the copper line. by rotating the regular and street 90s, you should be able to match up your copper lines with whatever adapter you use on the galv to make the transition. you may need to use a dielectric union to keep the two kinds of metal from coming in contact with each other, which would result in elctrolysis (pipe rotting). a pic would be a great help in more accurately specifiying how to approach this connection.

[Raffi]

Picture

Ok heres a picture.

We are removing everything with the red X, one was a feed for the pool, the other for the original irrigation. Both are unused and capped but still get water pressure. When I remove them, I am going to bypass the existing feed for the irrigation (circled in white) so that it will be affected by the pressure reduction. I'm thinking I'm going to need to do something like this:

_
|_|

To line them up.

[woodturner]

New copper line coming up to house from street.

Existing galvanized pipe that feed the house.

The two 90 degree elbows another poster suggested is likely how a pro plumber would do it.

It appears you intend to connect galvanized pipe to copper pipe, and that will cause corrosion at the joint - the dissimilar materials make a battery and that causes the metal to corrode. You could use a dielectric union to avoid this issue - or just use PVC pipe to connect the two, since PVC is an insulator.

[jking]

The two 90 degree elbows another poster suggested is likely how a pro plumber would do it.

It appears you intend to connect galvanized pipe to copper pipe, and that will cause corrosion at the joint - the dissimilar materials make a battery and that causes the metal to corrode. You could use a dielectric union to avoid this issue - or just use PVC pipe to connect the two, since PVC is an insulator.

My recollection is that PVC is not allowed by code for water lines.

[woodturner]

My recollection is that PVC is not allowed by code for water lines.

Umm, that is one primary usage for PVC. With the rising cost of copper, most new construction uses PVC, although PEX is popular in some areas.

Perhaps you are thinking of hot water lines? CPVC is required for those, regular PVC is used for cold water lines.

Could also be a quirk in your local plumbing code, but PVC is generally allowed by most plumbing codes.

[jking]

Umm, that is one primary usage for PVC. With the rising cost of copper, most new construction uses PVC, although PEX is popular in some areas.

Perhaps you are thinking of hot water lines? CPVC is required for those, regular PVC is used for cold water lines.

Could also be a quirk in your local plumbing code, but PVC is generally allowed by most plumbing codes.

Yes, I was remembering the CPVC requirement for hot water lines. However, I've never seen PVC used for cold water supply in new construction in my area. Most of the professionals around here seem to use either copper or PEX.

[BigguyZ]

Cpvc is allowed by UPC. But my preference is PEX. If you're only doing this one repair, I'd reccomend cpvc, since its all glue joints. But if you're doing more, I would personally invest in a $50 PEX crimper.

[cabinetman]

Yes, I was remembering the CPVC requirement for hot water lines. However, I've never seen PVC used for cold water supply in new construction in my area. Most of the professionals around here seem to use either copper or PEX.

That's what my plumber says. Seems PVC mfg before 1977, PVC pipe, and CPVC pipe marked “NSF-61” or “NSF-PW” indicate that they have passed testing for potentially harmful chemicals leaching into the water. Interesting info on PVC and potential hazards are discussed here.


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[woodturner]

Cpvc is allowed by UPC. But my preference is PEX.

Some people have concerns about the durability of PEX as well as concerns about the chemicals in it, and that has slowed the adoption of PEX. Some municipalities prohibit PEX.

I would personally invest in a $50 PEX crimper.

If you are only doing a little bit of PEX work, less expensive "pocket crimpers" are available. They are just the crimping part with no handle, and are used with a pair of pliers. Works great is tight spaces, but takes longer than the conventional crimpers. There are also two styles of PEX crimp rings - and one requires more expensive tooling. It's wise to decide on one system before buying the fittings and tooling.

PVC and CPVC have been around many years and have proven durability. PVC is essentially inert and therefore there are no concerns about carcinogens or leaching chemicals. Some people have pointed out that the components used to manufacture PVC and the cement used to make joints are toxic and speculated that the end product is thus toxic, but those concerns have been shown to be unfounded. The PVC pipe is inert as manufactured and the cement is inert when cured, eliminating any risk. Even the rather liberal Mother Earth news acknowledges that PVC and the cured cement are non-toxic when used for water piping.

[cabinetman]

Cpvc is allowed by UPC. But my preference is PEX. If you're only doing this one repair, I'd reccomend cpvc, since its all glue joints. But if you're doing more, I would personally invest in a $50 PEX crimper.

+1. I agree...no cement. There still is a question concerning the toxicity of PVC and CPVC due to the solvent in the cement. For installations prior to 1977, states like Kansas, Texas, Iowa, Arkansas and Missouri are high on the list for questionable PVC.

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