Cabinet Installation Advice

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  • jseklund
    Established Member
    • Aug 2006
    • 428

    Cabinet Installation Advice

    I know many of you have hung cabinets in the past - and I'm in the middle of doing this for the first time. The kitchen I am doing this in was framed out in 1880, and just to get the drywall right required shimming. The walls are MUCh better than they were a few months ago, but still not plumb and the floor in the kitchen goes in every direction imaginable.

    I have the upper cabinets installed and about 3/4 of the lower cabinets are done. In order to get the cabinets level, significant shimming of the corners of the cabinets was required - including a 1/2 inch piece of plywood in the corner of a 30" cabinet (to give an idea of what "significant is).

    The person who designed the kitchen (not me - it's my grandmother's house and my mom got the cabinets from a kitchen design friend) put a 9" cabinet by itself on one side of the stove. The wall and floor are sooooo far out of level on this 9" cabinet that I had to shim the top away from the wall about 1/4", and the front still did not touch the floor; it's about 1/4 inch off. I put shims in the corners/back - and now I have gaps that are visable from the side and front of the cabinets. On the front, I have some very thin base material that I'm thinking I can just scribe to the floor and glue to the base of the cabinet. On the side....I'm kind of at a loss.

    These cabinets are the absolute cheapest plywood cabinets you could imagine. Again, I wasn't involved in the purchase and actually strongly advised against buying from the person that sold them - but these things are junk. They look OK once they're up and only a trained eye would know - but they're far from quality.

    Given the quality of the cabinets, I'm thinking I may just put a scribe board piece against the cabinet where it meets the wall. There is no material on the cabinet to scribe the cabinet itself to the wall...so I'm at a loss there.

    How would you handle this situation? In retrospect, I should have at least scribed the bottom of the cabinets to the floor...but I'd never done this before and the thought hadn't crossed my mind.

    My second question is this - crown moulding. I have put matching extension boards on the top of the face frames so that they go to within about 1/8" from the ceiling. My plan was to put white crown moulding around the room, and the cabinets were originally going to be white - so that would have matched.

    Now, the cabinets are a "classic country oak" which looks to me like a white oak with no stain and a water-based poly coating. I actually found some red oak crown moulding that matches the pattern of the white crown that I was planning on putting up.

    I know I will see the difference - but would anyone advise against mixing the red/white oak? I'm thinking I can do the white around the room, and then just use the red oak over the cabinets, with a clear water-based poly on it.

    I held it up to the cabinet and my gf thinks it's very close and won't matter...but she doesn't see the difference between the red/white oak. Do you think it will be OK?

    Thanks again for your opinions, thoughts, help, etc!
    F#$@ no good piece of S#$% piece of #$@#% #@$#% #$@#$ wood! Dang. - Me woodworking
  • cabinetman
    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
    • Jun 2006
    • 15216
    • So. Florida
    • Delta

    #2
    Pictures for both would offer a a good basis for suggestions. But, if I understand your description, I would make a scribe strip out of the same species as the side of the cabinet ¼" thick and wide enough to scribe to the wall and attach to the side of the cabinet...maybe 1" or so. You could just contact cement it in place, or use a few brads. You could also rabbet the side to fit in the scribe piece, then it will look like just the side of the cabinet.

    For the crown, if it's close, woods don't have to match the cabinets exactly. As long as all of it is one type. For the "classic country look" you may have to tone the wood to bring it even closer. I have some red oak and white oak that looks the same.

    .

    Comment

    • jseklund
      Established Member
      • Aug 2006
      • 428

      #3
      Cabinetman - thanks so much. That's pretty much what I thought - a scribe board on the side of the cabinet. The wall is flat - so I am thinking it may just fit without having to scribe cut it - but either way I can get it to work. Great idea on the rabbit...I hadn't thought of that.

      On the crown - it's close. I can kind of tell it's different, the grain pattern is slighlty different ....but that's probably more the cut of the oak than anything. I may try to get a very light, light stain to try that and see if I can get it closer....
      F#$@ no good piece of S#$% piece of #$@#% #@$#% #$@#$ wood! Dang. - Me woodworking

      Comment

      • jking
        Senior Member
        • May 2003
        • 972
        • Des Moines, IA.
        • BT3100

        #4
        If I understand correctly, you had to shim the cabinets & now you have a gap between the cabinet & the wall (or floor). What I did in my kitchen was to use trim pieces to cover the gaps. At the bottom, I covered gaps with the toekick & quarterround. The side I used a piece of thin batten moulding.

        I agree with C-man. If the crown is close to the cabinets, it will probably be fine. I've seen cabinets where the color & grain didn't match very well. It sounds like you're in a better situation than that already.

        Comment

        • JimD
          Veteran Member
          • Feb 2003
          • 4187
          • Lexington, SC.

          #5
          My kitchen cabinets have a 3/4 shoe moulding (1/4 round) at the floor to cabinet junction. Might be another option.

          I also agree with C'man on the crown. The range of color of red and white oak overlaps a lot. You might want to stay away from the redder red oak pieces (the ones I really like) but it should work fine.

          Jim

          Comment

          • jseklund
            Established Member
            • Aug 2006
            • 428

            #6
            Thanks guys, I have about 4 coats of water based poly on a piece of the oak trim and I think it's pretty darn close. I'll just stick to it.

            I think I'm going to just use a scribe board on the back - I with I had some end panel pieces that I could scribe, as it would look much better - but it's just an apartment and it's my first time doing this, so I guess I can't expect to be a master at it yet.

            Thanks again!
            F#$@ no good piece of S#$% piece of #$@#% #@$#% #$@#$ wood! Dang. - Me woodworking

            Comment

            • unknown poster
              Established Member
              • Jan 2006
              • 219
              • .

              #7
              I give another vote for quarter round moulding to cover the gaps on the 9" cabinet. You can probably use any type of moulding that you like, but 3/4" tall quarter round is common for filling gaps around cabinetry. I wouldn't try to wedge a piece scribed board in the gaps because you'll be able to see the seam between the two parts.

              Comment

              • cabinetman
                Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                • Jun 2006
                • 15216
                • So. Florida
                • Delta

                #8
                Originally posted by unknown poster
                I wouldn't try to wedge a piece scribed board in the gaps because you'll be able to see the seam between the two parts.
                What do you mean "wedge a piece scribed board" in the gaps? Did one of the replies infer that?

                .

                Comment

                • jseklund
                  Established Member
                  • Aug 2006
                  • 428

                  #9
                  When I say scribe board - I am talking about a thin strip of wood that is very similar to quarter-round and designed for cabinet use. It's about 1/4" thick, 3/4" wide and has a rounded edge. You put the straight edge to the wall (scribed if need be) and the curved edge to the cabinet to hide the back.

                  I'm not going to scribe a piece of wood to the wall and tack it to the back of the cabinet. I'd go insane trying to do that
                  F#$@ no good piece of S#$% piece of #$@#% #@$#% #$@#$ wood! Dang. - Me woodworking

                  Comment

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