Replacing Saddle Valve

[JoeyGee]

We just replaced our refrigerator. It was suggested we replace the current saddle valve and 1/4" flexible copper pipe due to age. I have never liked saddle valves, and never got good enough pressure out of that line, so I definitely want to replace it.

My problem is, it looks like the line was put in before the basement ceiling was finished, so cutting the pipe and soldering in a proper connection/valve will be ackward at best. It was a really bad place for the valve, even before the ceiling was put in.

I think I can probably cut the pipe without much hassle, but I don't think I can even see the far end of the connection to even think about soldering it. I would like to have the connection in a better spot, but I still need to somehow patch the old one. I do not want to leave the valve in place, that's just delaying a problem.

[frumper64]

How about using compression fittings instead of soldering?

[jking]

They have solderless fittings for copper pipe. "Shark Bite" or something like that is one brand. I know a couple of people who have used these with success.

[JR]

I'm not sure I'm getting it.

Is the valve currently located in basement ceiling? If so, and you can easily cut the pipe, why can't you see the far end?

Details, please!

JR

[JoeyGee]

Yes, it is in the basement ceiling. It is btw two 2x6 joists, with a finished ceiling underneath. This finished DW ceiling ends at a wall, about 24" or so away from the valve, so I am reaching 24" into this 5.5" x 16" space to try to make a new connection. I hope that description makes sense. Basically, I can access the valve from an unfinished section of the basement.

I suppose I could solder it, but I usually have trouble soldering even when everything is right in front of me with plenty of space. And using a flame is such a small area doesn't sound like a great idea to me. Again, I am not a pro.

I can reach the valve, and likely be able to cut it using a pipe cutter, which I really don't need to see, or need two hands to do.

[jdon]

I consider myself a reasonably competent plumbing amateur- comfortable with copper installation. Soldering a line in a 5.5 x 16 x 24" box sounds challenging: just aiming the torch tip with one hand, never mind the other hand to apply the solder, presumably on a ladder with suboptimal lighting. I'd be concerned about getting enough heat evenly around each joint to allow good solder flow around the entire joint circumference.

I'd second jking's rec- consider Sharkbite, or something similar. While I've never installed it, at the local HD they had a hands on display, seems easy enough to do with minimal fuss in a confined space. I don't recall how flexible the line is- think about making a loop between the copper connectors.

Good luck.

[JR]

I'd probably try a compression fitting. OTOH, aren't you going to have your drywall tools out anyway in order to deal with the valve installation at the top end? You also are going to have to tie down the new pipe to a stud.

You might just have to wrap your head around opening the ceiling, opening the wall behind the fridge and getting it done right.

JR