T-111 Siding Repair

[cabinetman]

I built this shed after Wilma (2005), a 10'x12', and sided it with 5/8" T-111 (4" O/C). I painted the outside, and the bottom edge, but there is some rot along the bottom edge (about 6"-8").

For a fix I was thinking to set up a straightedge up from the bottom and just run a circular saw with the blade just deep enough to cut the siding. Then my choices are to what to put back on. Here's my choices so far. I think the issue of applying a thinner siding under the 5/8", in order to get some kind of run-off for water.

Use 3/8" T-111, and paint the heck out of it.

Some kind of vinyl siding, that might have some lip on one edge that would slip under the existing T-111.

Use hardiplank siding.

Use cement board.

Any ideas for the repair, or choice of materials?

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[pelligrini]

I patched one side of mine going back with T1-11. I cut mine with a straightedge and circular saw too. I just screwed a 1x4 into the studs through the part that I was cutting off. I took off about 16" or so. The height corresponded to a bunch of siding cutoffs I already had onhand. Some vinyl Z flashing at the joint, and a bunch of caulk sealed it well. I always paint the edges of new T1-11, especially edges that will be close to grade, really well. I used some elastomeric paint, which I already had, this time too.

6 years doesn't seem all that long for T1-11. I'd probably use hardiplank if it were wide enough, or hardiboard if I needed to go wider. I just don't like the butt-joint ends of the panels. I'm sure you can get some galvanized or vinyl Z flashing to slide up under your existing siding and hand out over whatever new material you use.

[pelligrini]

I think the issue of applying a thinner siding under the 5/8", in order to get some kind of run-off for water.

I don't think the water running down the side makes too much of a difference, a drip edge probably wouldn't help much. Most of the water damage at the bottom will come from splashback off the ground. I ran a length of gutter down the side I had problems with to help keep the water from splashing up as much. The side I had problems with didn't get much sun. But the main problem was a lumberpile I had next to the shed.

That's where I also learned that you don't let wood come in contect with the ground if you want to have it for very long...

[cabinetman]

I don't think the water running down the side makes too much of a difference, a drip edge probably wouldn't help much. Most of the water damage at the bottom will come from splashback off the ground.

Thanks for your response. I thought about a Z flashing of sorts. If it is flat under the existing (top piece), water can seep under it and wick up the existing panel. That's why I was thinking of a thinner panel for the repair, to allow some overhang above.

As for what to use for the panel, doesn't hardiplank, or panel need to be painted to be water resistant? I will paint anyway, but I'm just concerned about waterproofing. How about a vinyl siding with a built in lip on one edge, that would act like a Z flashing.

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[toolguy1000]

i repaired the shed of a friend with the same problem. i beveled the cut in the siding above the rot, and beveled the pre-primed 1x replacement board with the same bevel. that way, any water running down the side onto the "freeze board" ( i think that's what it's called here in the northeast) would run down the top of the board (much like a window sill) and away from the building. 3 years now and going strong.

[tommyt654]

Since your only talking a 6-8 inch strip I would try to find some galvanized steel in that width and length and screw it to the existing studs and caulk it with a paintable silicone and paint to match.You could even put a small wedge between it and the studs to angle the water away from the base

[pelligrini]

Thanks for your response. I thought about a Z flashing of sorts. If it is flat under the existing (top piece), water can seep under it and wick up the existing panel. That's why I was thinking of a thinner panel for the repair, to allow some overhang above.

As for what to use for the panel, doesn't hardiplank, or panel need to be painted to be water resistant? I will paint anyway, but I'm just concerned about waterproofing. How about a vinyl siding with a built in lip on one edge, that would act like a Z flashing.

I suppose it could wick. I put a generous bead of caulk along the corner of the vinyl Z flashing before I installed it under the esisting siding. It held it in place while installing and sealed it up pretty well. The bead was big enough to get a little squeeze out on the exterior. I also ran a smaller bead on the top corner of the new siding that will fit against the backside of the Z flashing.

I don't think that the cementuous fiberboard has to be painted, as long as you're using the prefinished stuff. Some is primed and needs to be painted. It won't rot like the wood products.

Vinyl might work. I wouldn't use it myself, especially close to grade. After some UV exposure and a couple whacks with the weedeater I'm sure it would be full of holes.

[FL Buckeye]

I'd cut it as you and others have said, use a z flashing with pt "skirt board" below that. A frieze board is used up just below the soffet. After the pt trim has weathered enough to accept paint/stain then finish it to match. I'd also consider raising the shed a few inches to distance the bottom from the ground and any dampness. I recently did this on my daughter's shed and used hardware cloth all around the shed to keep critters from making a home there. Used 4x8x16 solid concrete blocks. Ace had them for $.89 ea.