Clear coat for kitchen cabinets....

[rjwaldren]

About a year ago I refinished our front bathroom vanity - Never again. Stripping catalyzed top coats quickly failed the time/money test and Cabot's stains don't even work well for coloring toilet water (Didn't really flush it, but was tempted). After staining I used 5 coats of Minwax Wipeon Satin. It's holding up fine but I don't think it will hold up well in the kitchen.

For the kitchen, which has the same Oak cabinets I'm going with a GF gel stain. Fortunately I found a local Unfinished Furniture store that carries the Gen Finishes lineup. I looked at the GF Gel top coat to but it seems to be about the same as the Wipe-on Minwax. The GF Arm-R-Seal looks promising and is also a wipeon, which I prefer. What are the recommendations of the pro's? I prefer wiping, brushing is okay too, but I won't be able to spray.

[JimD]

I brush my favorite finish sometimes but it works better on large project spraying. I like Resisthane from Hood finishing. It is rated for kitchen cabinets. It is water based so cleanup is easy and it dries fast. I recoat in 2 hours, you can probably do it in less. Brushing you have to be careful about brush marks.

Jim

[bigstick509]

If you have not used Waterlox before it might be something to look at.
http://www.waterlox.com/products/

[JeffW]

When I rd-did mine I finished up with some spray on lacquer that is water based. I believe that it came from Target Coatings. Very easy to use and is holding well.

[cabinetman]

Since you say you're not spraying, a wipe on oil base will work very well. The packaged products like Arm-R-Seal, are basically an oil base polyurethane or urethane, an oil, and mineral spirits.

Waterbase wipe/brush on polys will also work. They will dry faster and are a bit more difficult to use.

Some wipe ons are just a thinned version of the polyurethane or urethane. An interior varnish will also work. With the oil added, it will flow out better and take longer to dry. Naptha can be used instead of mineral spirits for a faster dry.

You can make your own mix and vary the ratios to achieve different results. It's best to experiment with samples.

Either WB or oil will provide good finishes if applied in thin applications.
.

[SARGE..g-47]

If you use the GF gel stain.. let it dry for at least 48 hours before doing any wiping. I have always used Bartley's but they went out of business recently. I got some GF gel to use on a Mission Twin Bed I finished a few weeks ago. I allowed it to dry for a full 24 hours. When I wiped with Mini-wax poly mixed with naptha cut at 60%-40%.. I had stain on my wiping rag and quite a bit for that matter. Never had that happen with either Bartley's or Mini-wax gel stain.

I built a night-stand that is curing out after finish at this moment. This time I waited 72 hours for the GF gel to dry before wiping. Much better but still had some minute traces of stain on the wipe rag. It is rumored Bartley's will return soon under new owners. I hope so as I am not overly happy with the GF which is abundant locally here in Atlanta.

Good luck...

[rjwaldren]

That's interesting, I seen alot of good reviews about GF and no negative. How is the actual application versus other products? How long would you suggest waiting between second coats of the stain , if needed.

I only have minwax gel stains commonly available and the box stores don't carry more than 4-7 colors none of which are what we what.

I've never used GF but have heard that it's very easy to work with as opposed to minwax (I'll never touch cabots again). I'm a very amateur finisher, but with the help this forum have had some very professional results and often changed my original plans entirely to get it.

[jabe]

I,ve used Deft water-based lacquer cause it does not turn yellow and it has been very durable. It is a brush on lacquer but, i usually thinned it and sprayed 3 coats on all the cabinet jobs I did. I've used their solvent based lacquer for years but changed to their water based lacquer cause of the ease of clean up & less environmental impact.

[SARGE..g-47]

That's interesting, I seen alot of good reviews about GF and no negative. How is the actual application versus other products? How long would you suggest waiting between second coats of the stain , if needed.

I only have minwax gel stains commonly available and the box stores don't carry more than 4-7 colors none of which are what we what.

I've never used GF but have heard that it's very easy to work with as opposed to minwax (I'll never touch cabots again). I'm a very amateur finisher, but with the help this forum have had some very professional results and often changed my original plans entirely to get it.

Sorry to take so long RJ..been building a curve front replacement drawer for a friend to replace one her grand-mom threw away years ago cause it kept falling out. Go figure.. haha..

The GF went on with the same ease as the Bartley's does. Comes off with the same ease which is getting down with a terry cloth towel and making sure you didn't leave any surface stain. I only use one coat to finish as the one attains the color I want from the git-go. So.. first time waited 24 hours.. second 72. Note.. I do wet my wipe rag with naptha and then ring it out throughly before wiping poly. That's when the surface stain came off. I did not wet my wife rag which the second attempt and got much less. With the Bartley's and Mini-wax gel (occasionally) I use I get no stained rag. All was well in the end but if had lightened the color I would have done a second coat.

Good luck as mileage varies and that can depend on humidity.. heat.. cold.. etc. at your shop. Right now mine is hitting around 79 degrees inside with the doors open to let fumes out and the humidity between 70%-80%. Summertime in the south...

[rjwaldren]

Thanks Sarge,

I do have a question about your 40/60 cut with the wipe-on poly. I've always had good results, or at least what I was going for, straight out of the can. What is the reason for the mix, is the naptha just to cut the drying time?

Most of the work will be in the kitchen, which has been hitting 79 inside by about 11am for the past week or so. Humidity? What's that?: We're gearing up for some dry 100's soon, may have found one last Sunday. So I'm limiting the A/C as much as possible right now. The garage has been a steady 93 during the day for about a week now.

[SARGE..g-47]

Thanks Sarge,

I do have a question about your 40/60 cut with the wipe-on poly. I've always had good results, or at least what I was going for, straight out of the can. What is the reason for the mix, is the naptha just to cut the drying time?

Most of the work will be in the kitchen, which has been hitting 79 inside by about 11am for the past week or so. Humidity? What's that?: We're gearing up for some dry 100's soon, may have found one last Sunday. So I'm limiting the A/C as much as possible right now. The garage has been a steady 93 during the day for about a week now.

The reason is pretty simple RJ.. the poly out of the can is a bit thick which will cause drag between your wipe rag and the surface allowing more chance of bubbles.. high build spots or uneven in general layers. The naptha cuts down the vicousity of the poly to help elinate that. And the dry time is highly reduced which means the thinner the mixture.. faster the dry and the less chance you have of dust attaching to the tacky surface. The reason for very light scuffing between coats is to take any nibs that do form on the finish off. Don't sand too hard or you remove the finish and can remove stain if done too briskly. You can run your hand over the surface and know when you have scuffed enough. Vacuum after scuffing throughly or you just leave the residue you took off to be there under the next wipe coat.

With that said.. I personally believe the Mini-wax folks have cut the pure poly to a certain degree from what is was back in the 70's.. 80's and 90's. It used to be very thick and brushing it straight up was not a pleasant task. That first coat is to fill in pores and get a good base. The second adds to the top as poly lays on top of itself in layers. Shellac coats blend with each other as opposed to poly. So.. concentrate on getting an even coat on the initial passes as going back after they start to dry is a no-no. Just leave a spot alone that you feel is not perfect. Going back after it start to dry will only worsen the initial mistake.. trust me.

BTW.. you don't have to start with 60%-40%.. you could go 70%-30%.. 80%-20%.. etc. The thicker means less coats but more chance of bubbling or dust attachment. I used to deplore brushing as it is an art. Wiping has made finishing a breeze to me at this point and I no longer hate that portion. Those light passes with the wipe rag lays down a bubble free coat. Just remember the thinner you cut the more over-all coats required but.. I would not make the mistake of over-kill. I find two thinned base coats and two final cut to 50%-50% final coats are enough for protection. Anything more IMO is wasted and builds to give that plastic look to the finish which I hate.

Good luck...