Inserting outlet inline question

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I have a Romex line running up above my head (exposed framing) in my basement. I've been able to find some slack in this line.

I'd like to cut it and install an outlet about mid-way. There is very little loading on this line now (a couple of light bulbs).

A thread here a few months ago makes me wonder if I can do it the way I'd like, or not.

Basically, I was going to cut the wire, and wire both ends into the outlet's clamps.

The other approach I've seen is to wire nut the wires together with short pig tails, then attach the pig tails to the outlet.

Is one method preferable to the other for safety or code?

[LarryG]

My understanding is that some inspectors insist on the pigtails, others don't (those here, don't).

The advantage of the pigtails is that if the "inline" outlet fails internally, the continuity of the circuit is maintained.

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The advantage of the pigtails is that if the "inline" outlet fails internally, the continuity of the circuit is maintained.

It has been a while since I've looked at one, but don't receptacles have two screws on either side which are connected via a metal plate? Would a failure on the inside of the outlet really break continuity somehow?

Or am I wrong? Is using both screws on either side of the receptacle really a series configuration rather than parallel?

[master53yoda]

It has been a while since I've looked at one, but don't receptacles have two screws on either side which are connected via a metal plate? Would a failure on the inside of the outlet really break continuity somehow?

Or am I wrong? Is using both screws on either side of the receptacle really a series configuration rather than parallel?

you can use the screws on both sides and it is done in commercial all the time. the only exception is the ground wires need to be pigtailed as there is only one ground screw. It is common practice to use the multiple taps on the push-in connected receptacles without pigtails but an internal failure will mess up the circuit on that type of receptacle.

Do you have enough slack to not use the box as a tension point in the wire. The code does require that the wire be attached to the framing points prior to the box. If I don't have enough slack, I use two boxes and add a few feet of wire so that the wire can be attached to the framing rather then tension being placed on the box.

have a good day

[eccentrictinkerer]

It has been a while since I've looked at one, but don't receptacles have two screws on either side which are connected via a metal plate? Would a failure on the inside of the outlet really break continuity somehow?

Or am I wrong? Is using both screws on either side of the receptacle really a series configuration rather than parallel?

It's paralleling. Sometimes called "daisy-changing".

To best understand this, disassemble an outlet (they're only 36 cents!). Should make everything clear.

For a "quick and dirty" install, I've been known to just jam the wires in the holes in the back. When the outlet and wiring is exposed, it's easy to diagnose problems.

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Thanks Art.

I had thought about adding two boxes and some wire but I found a lot of slack, so I will still be able to attach the wiring to the framing and have plenty left over in the box.

[cabinetman]

I've done it both ways. Don't know what the local code is. If the wire is just interrupted by the receptacle (stripped and bent around the screws), even with a failure in the receptacle, the circuit is still continuous, like pigtails. The new receptacle should be in a box.

Using pigtails makes installing in a box easier. I don't know if there are remodel boxes that would accommodate continuous romex.
.

[Mr__Bill]

I don't know if there are remodel boxes that would accommodate continuous romex.
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Remember the Bakelite receptacles where you just striped away the insulation and laid the wire inside and screwed the top on? Can't help but think a few houses burnt down because of them.

I would use pigtails, it's just easier to get the receptacle back into the box with only one set of wire to bend and fit in.

Bill

[LarryG]

It has been a while since I've looked at one, but don't receptacles have two screws on either side which are connected via a metal plate? Would a failure on the inside of the outlet really break continuity somehow?

No, as Art says the continuity would be maintained if the screw terminals are used. I was thinking of the "back-stab" connections that are frequently used in residential circuits with 14ga wire. (There used to be receptacles that had ONLY the back-stab connections, but I haven't seen one of those in a long time ... not sure they still make them.)

Mr Bill makes a good point ... using pigtails does make getting the outlet in and out of the box a lot easier, especially for circuits using heavier gauge wire. I have done it both ways, depending. Some older, existing boxes are small enough that there's barely room for the device itself, let alone the pigtails and a couple extra wire nuts. For new work I always buy the deeper boxes that provide more room to fold up the wiring, and I always use the screw terminals rather than the back-stabs, so most of the time I dispense with pigtails on all but the ground.

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I guess once I cut it and strip back the outer insulation a little I'll have a better idea for how much of a fight it is going to give me. If it seems like I'm going to fight it getting it in the box, I'll switch to pigtails.

I kinda suspect I will resort to pigtails.

[toolguy1000]

if it's 14 gauge wire (15A circuit), i'll use the outlet as the connecting device rather than wire nuts and tails. but wire nuts and tails are code in my area. if the wire is 12gauge (20A circuit) ,i'll always use tails as they are easier to get back into the box.

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if it's 14 gauge wire (15A circuit), i'll use the outlet as the connecting device rather than wire nuts and tails. but wire nuts and tails are code in my area. if the wire is 12gauge (20A circuit) ,i'll always use tails as they are easier to get back into the box.

That's a good rule of thumb to know.

I think I'm looking at 12 gauge, I'll check again tonight.

If I use pigtails, what gauge should I use for a 15a receptacle. Seeing as they are only a few inches long, do I have to be overly concerned here, or does code govern this, too?

[toolguy1000]

when it comes to electricity and gas (natural or propane), i always err on the side of caution. if i'm wiring 20A circuits, everything in that circuit is 12 gauge wire. tails, grounding wires and, in shop applications, even the outlets.

the danger,as an electrician friend once told me, is that using some 14wire in a 20A circuit may create a "weak link" in the electrical continuity of the circuit wiring. even if a 20A breaker is removed from a 12 wire circuit that had some 14 wire in it and replaced with a 15A breaker as a precaution, there is always the possibility that the 12 gauge wire would be spotted in the future adn the "safe" 15A breaker woudl be replaced with a 20A breaker and now, the portion of that circuit that is 14 wire is at risk for overamping.

and an overamped wire doesn't care how long a failing piece of wire is. i've seen loose outlet screws cause arching in a box, with char marks indicating the opportunity for a fire. so even at the outrageous costs of wire today, and the expense of electricians, it's always better to be safe rather than sorry.

[Sparky2002]

Question back to the OP, you stated the line you plan to tap is feeding some lights. Do you want the receptacle to be switch fed, on and off with the lights? Or is the line have power all the time? All depends how the electrician wired out the circuit. Something to thing about.

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Question back to the OP, you stated the line you plan to tap is feeding some lights. Do you want the receptacle to be switch fed, on and off with the lights? Or is the line have power all the time? All depends how the electrician wired out the circuit. Something to thing about.

It has power all the time, the switch is further down the line.