Electrical code question

[jdon]

I have an attached garage with a tall ceilng (~11 feet), with walls and ceiling enclosed (taped drywall). Toward the back of the garage I've suspended a storage shelf- a 4x8 sheet of OSB, built on a frame of 2x4 "joists", and hung from 2x4's lagged into ceiling cleats. The bottom of the frame is 8 feet above the floor. It's rock solid- picture it as a small loft.

I want to mount a 4' fluorescent strip light on the bottom of the frame, hard wired. I plan to connect power from an existing ceiling light outlet, fishing through the ceiling, and penetrating the drywall adjacent to one of the 2x4 hangers. I plan to run the cable down the hanger, through the outer "rim joist" of the platform, and run along a platform "joist" to a box, and attach the fixture.
I plan to seal the around the cable where it exits from the ceiling drywall.

Most information I've seen refers to wiring unattached garages. I've wired with thinwall in the past, but I'd like to avoid having to use it, if possible. From everything I've been able to locate so far, I'm pretty sure that Romex (which I'd prefer using) appears to be acceptable for this situation, but I'd like confirmation/rebuttal/advice from the collected wisdom of the group.

I'm comfortable with Romex wiring practices, and run circuits in attics, basements, detached garages and finished living areas, but so far not in this specific situation: an exposed "ceiling" (bottom of the platform) in a non-living area of the house.

Thanks for any insight.

[LarryG]

Yes, you can do what you propose. As long as the Romex is routed close to the surfaces that support it and is not in danger of being damaged, this will comply with the NEC.

[master53yoda]

I have an attached garage with a tall ceilng (~11 feet), with walls and ceiling enclosed (taped drywall). Toward the back of the garage I've suspended a storage shelf- a 4x8 sheet of OSB, built on a frame of 2x4 "joists", and hung from 2x4's lagged into ceiling cleats. The bottom of the frame is 8 feet above the floor. It's rock solid- picture it as a small loft.

I want to mount a 4' fluorescent strip light on the bottom of the frame, hard wired. I plan to connect power from an existing ceiling light outlet, fishing through the ceiling, and penetrating the drywall adjacent to one of the 2x4 hangers. I plan to run the cable down the hanger, through the outer "rim joist" of the platform, and run along a platform "joist" to a box, and attach the fixture.
I plan to seal the around the cable where it exits from the ceiling drywall.

Most information I've seen refers to wiring unattached garages. I've wired with thinwall in the past, but I'd like to avoid having to use it, if possible. From everything I've been able to locate so far, I'm pretty sure that Romex (which I'd prefer using) appears to be acceptable for this situation, but I'd like confirmation/rebuttal/advice from the collected wisdom of the group.

I'm comfortable with Romex wiring practices, and run circuits in attics, basements, detached garages and finished living areas, but so far not in this specific situation: an exposed "ceiling" (bottom of the platform) in a non-living area of the house.

Thanks for any insight.

I normally would suggest that any hard wired electrical that is attached to a non-permanent structure be in metal flex below the ceiling or outside the walls. Some areas require it others do not. one way to tell if it is required by local code is the wire that goes to the furnace or the water heater, if it is in flex the local code is probably requiring it.

In your case I normally place a receptacle in the ceiling and run a plugged cord to the light

[jdon]

Thanks for the advice- I checked the furnace, which is fed by metal flex cable, so just to be safe I'll go with that. I figure I'll either replace the plastic ceiling box that I'm tapping into with a metal box, or run a short run of concealed Romex to a metal junction box, and then run MC cable.

I chose hard wired fixtures because the local HD had a sale about a month ago- ~$18, with a $12 instant energy rebate/fixture. I couldn't pass up $6 for a 4' 2 lamp strip- not stylish, but hey, it's a garage. I'm replacing the old porcelain bare incandescent fixtures, and adding a couple of boxes/fixtures (all but the one mentioned above with enclosed wiring), and get more and better distributed light using less energy.

[toolguy1000]

FWIW, you wouldn't have to replace the plastic box or add another box if the armored cable (BX) you use contains a separate ground wire and does not use the armored jacket for the ground. it's available @ HD and is referenced as being a certain type of BX.

[jdon]

FWIW, you wouldn't have to replace the plastic box or add another box if the armored cable (BX) you use contains a separate ground wire and does not use the armored jacket for the ground. it's available @ HD and is referenced as being a certain type of BX.

Thanks- I'll have to check that out. AFAIK, "AC" is the older armored cable with the thin metal strip that provides contact so the armor wall itself acts a the ground "wire". Newer "MC" is the metal clad equivalent of Romex, in that it doesn't assume that the metal sheath is providing adequate ground, and contains a ground wire, as well as hot and neutral.

I thought that plastic boxes are designed only for non-metallic sheathed cable (Romex), and that use with any metal clad cable- even MC- is strictly verboten with plastic boxes. It doesn't seem to make sense- although codes aren't always logical! It would certainly be easier not having to replace the plastic box, or add a metal one- I need to do more research...